1astrokeit Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 they only call for 4hrs to r&r the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 im assuming you had to remove the dp correct? Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 they only call for 4hrs to r&r the clutch Yeah, that's with a lift, a professional trans jack, a couple of buddies and several dozen clutch R&Rs under your belt. I could have done it in 6 if I hadn't filmed it, and I had been prepared for the trubo clearance issues. That's at home, using jack stands and a cheap trans jack on my own, and for the first time. When I took the trans out of my maxima the first time took me like 6 hours. After I'd done it a few times I got that down to 1.5 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 how did you put your jackstands that high?the car didnt slide when doing so? im waiting on the video edit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 how did you put your jackstands that high?the car didnt slide when doing so? im waiting on the video edit. I raised the car one end at a time, using a pair of identical jacks. Two pumps at a time. Kept the car flat (side to side) that it didn't want to slide off. I put the jack in the pocket of the front control arm rear mount (the triangle place with 3 bolt heads) and then put the jackstands under the frame about 1' behind there, with a piece of 2x4 between the jack stand and frame to reduce pressure points. If you try to jack up one corner that high then you'll likely lift up an adjacent cornet as well, putting a lot of stress on the frame. For the rear I jacked up at the tow bar mounts. You'll have to think of something else. I put the jackstands inside the pockets of the rear control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 o ok. just come over n help me ill pay you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 so new stock clutch, and old flywheel? Should have put the TSK3 snout kit in, if you didnt. What happens is the TOB just rides on grease and is not clipped to the fork. When the grease dries out over time it will stick again up against the pressure plate and start making noise again. The TSK3 kit provides a protective sleeve over the snout (quill) the bearing rides on and the new bearing comes with clips to attach it to the fork. So everytime you left off the clutch the fork pulls the bearing back. www.subaruwrxparts.com has it the cheapest. Fred Beans sells it now as well. Ive done all the work to my subaru but didnt want to tackle this laying under the car, especially with the bumping the turbo problems people have had getting it back in. I have an AVO380 which might make it even harder. Congrats on doing this yourself. Too dang cold this time of year for me to do it, so I paid the dealer 533 to do mine this past Monday 12/7. Looking forward to seeing the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 If it's another 63k until it happens again then I can live with that. The snout showed zero signs of wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Not totally about the snout wear its about the bearing just floating on the snout. There is nothing pulling it away from the pressure plate. Thats what causes it to squeal depending on how long the grease lasts. Some have had it fail really early, some not. Some have had the bearing fail and destroy the snout as well. With the kit it clips to the fork. Anyway good luck, mine first clutch went 117000 so you may be fine, I just like it for the peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 I have an 07 clutch kit/fly wheel TOB sleeve kit coming my way for the Wife's 05 LGT. (Fred Beans crew REALLY took care of me) 73k and the OE TOB crapped out. I'll be doing this on the floor too, and there is a hell of a lot more miles on my chassis than the car. Any special tools? I let my Evo business go away for the most part. Still have a home garage full of tools though. Will be tackling this next Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 I have an 07 clutch kit/fly wheel TOB sleeve kit coming my way for the Wife's 05 LGT. (Fred Beans crew REALLY took care of me) 73k and the OE TOB crapped out. I'll be doing this on the floor too, and there is a hell of a lot more miles on my chassis than the car. Any special tools? I let my Evo business go away for the most part. Still have a home garage full of tools though. Will be tackling this next Sunday. Trans jack and clutch alignment tool are about as specialized as you'll need. The rest is all 10,12,14,15,17,19mm wrenches. I only used air to take my wheels off - the rest was all hand tools. Some people have said their alutch alignment tools didn't fit between the engine and trans. Mine did, but only just. If the tool is cheap enough you can just cut the handle short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Thanks... was told the flywheel bolts were TORX or the like... that true on an 05? Guess since I'll be replacing the flywheel, I'll have to drop the tranny all the way down to get the impact on them. Always broke less bolts (coming off) with the impact than I ever did with my 260 lb ape arms. Never used an impact for much of any thing going back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 I don't use power tools for putting stuff together. You're right - the flywheel bolts are special. I heard they're not even torx head, but a secial variation of torx that willround off if you try to use a torx bit. Can anyone else answer that? I reused my flywheel, so I don't know. If you want to drop the trans down the beware of operating room. I had my car on 18" jackstands and the trans was still too tall to slide out from under the car. You'll just have to lower it further down and push it further back for clearance. At that point you have to pop the axles out which is no big. Consider how low you jack will allow to to get the trans - and also bear in mind that one the trans it supported only by the jack you can't just pick it up off the jack and put it on the floor - and even if you manage to tip the trans off the jack there's no nway you're putting it back up again. Maybe you could reach through the gap with an engine hoist connected to the bellhousing to lower the *front* of the trans to the floor, but you still have the rear of the trans to deal with, and it sticks back into the transmission tunnel too far to balance correctly on the engine hoist. You'd need the hoist at the front and a jack at the back to lower it down. It's doable, just don't underestimate the weight of the trans like I did. You always have to think two steps ahead when choosing your lifting equipment. You're not gonna he-man this into place. Or else, if you can, then I don't want to meet you in a dark alley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 LOL... I'm 6'1", 260 lbs, 19" arms, almost work out with 400 lbs (bench press)... but I'm OLD/WORE OUT. So I really don't want to be lifting anything a tool can lift for me. I just have to swap the flywheel, and an impact makes the most since on a 73k car. Now I have to find the right impact socket by Friday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Thanks... was told the flywheel bolts were TORX or the like... that true on an 05? Guess since I'll be replacing the flywheel, I'll have to drop the tranny all the way down to get the impact on them. Always broke less bolts (coming off) with the impact than I ever did with my 260 lb ape arms. Never used an impact for much of any thing going back on. Was a torx plus 50. I found the tool online for like $10 shipped. And I would not suggest using a imapct gun on those. If you strip one your in for a bit of drilling. I just used a 2 foot breaker bar and they came out like butter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 is that bit just like the bolts that are on the flywheel, that hold the shaft piece on the flywheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Was a torx plus 50. I found the tool online for like $10 shipped. And I would not suggest using a imapct gun on those. If you strip one your in for a bit of drilling. I just used a 2 foot breaker bar and they came out like butter. See, I'm worried about breaking them... Being Ape-ish, I have a LONG history of breaking bolts much larger than flywheel bolts. Impacts tend to not break bolts or strip if seated properly. Damn sure don't want to hand to drill anything on my back though! I have to have the bit this week, so will try and find it local. If I can't find it tomorrow, guess I'll see about overnighting it. You guys using breaker bars have any issue finding a way to hold the flywheel while removing them, or torquing them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Oh, oh, is it an internal or external TP50? For those who don't know, internal goes inside the flywheel bolt, external goes around the flywheel bolt. Hey, no offense, some people just don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 There were 8 bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft.I don't recall if there was a light threadlock on them or not. The bolts were Internal torx plus 50. I used a piece of scrap metal(shelving bracket) bolted to the flywheel(using a pressure plate bolt) and one to where the trans bolt goes(using the actual trans bolt. and it held the flywheel just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hand-tools-torx-products-torx--plus-bit-sockets.html $6.88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 I had two overnighted from McMaster-Carr at $10.44 plus shipping... guess we'll see how they work out. I keep lots of aluminum strap laying a round. Intended to go that route. Thanks for the heads up 94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Can the flywheel bolts n clutch bolts be reused? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 ^ FWIW - If it's a low-mileage vehicle, e.g., < 30K, on the first replacement, probably re-use both... but it's still situational. If you have any concerns, I'd just replace them. Easy insurance. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94sportsedan Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Just pick up a $2 bottle of blue threadlocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 car has 42k on it. should i replace? does arp make them for subbie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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