1-3-2-4 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 It's not due to the flood but I would always get a leak but it was hard to tell from where.. it seems to be leaking from two spots the rear of the pan where the gasket is and the part that sticks out for the dipstick as you see here. I'm scared to remove the screws in fear the heads might snap? Are they are Ass tight? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/SubaruWRX/DSCF0052.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/SubaruWRX/DSCF0054.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/SubaruWRX/DSCF0053.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 http://www.RockAuto.com $68 Don't forget the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 That's a good price but I might have a place where I can get it cheaper.. I will check.. but damn the stealership wants $137 for the pan... I take it they don't come with screws and I'm not putting those old screws back in... the rusted ones are coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Nope, the bolts aren't included. Good luck finding new bolts anywhere but a hardware store for a reasonable price. Might as well reuse the old ones. You're probably going to have to anyway. The heads might snap, but liberal application of PB Blaster should prevent this. If they do snap there are ways of removing them. Oil pan bolts aren't as hard to remove when they break as other bolts, as they generally snap with some bolt still sticking out from the block, meaning they don't snap off totally flush from the block. You can grind the edges of the bolt and try a wrench, or slot the end and use a screwdriver, or heat them up (This works best before the head is broken off), or you can weld an allen wrench to them and spin it out with leverage. The ideal way of doing this would be to soak them with PB Blaster and wait overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 I have an extra pan. $40 shipped and its yours. I can see if I can find some bolts for it too. Its off a 04 wrx so its much newer - but still the older style. oh, there is no gasket. Just use gasket maker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 You have two gasket options. Any auto shop will be able to get you a standard gasket for the car for somewhere around $7-$8. Or, as LGT_King stated, you can use the gasket maker liquid to create your own gasket. Honestly, I would go with the gasket liquid (you can get it just about anywhere, just make sure it is the correct kind for the temps it will see) as it is a much better seal than the regular quark-type gasket. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 You cant put the gasket on then use a sealant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 You could. Sure. But, what's the point in that? The liquid gasket is much better than the stock gasket. I would just stay away from the gasket all together. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 You could. Sure. But, what's the point in that? The liquid gasket is much better than the stock gasket. I would just stay away from the gasket all together. Agreed. At autozone or whatever see what they have. The orange stuff is for if both sides are a bit dirty still/dries slower and the gray/black is for two very clean surfaces/dries quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Themobb Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Yours doesn't look too bad. If you're not into jacking engines, you might try a little JB Weld... My pan is relatively leak free after a few liberal applications and a couple of sheet metal screws for the bigger holes... Lance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Jacking engines??? Why would he need to do that? And did you put sheet metal screws through the oilpan with sealant on them? That's ghetto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 28, 2009 Author Share Posted August 28, 2009 From what I hear (USMB) you need to raise the engine up not only to get to the screws in the back but to also remove the pan. You wont get very far if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Themobb Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 And did you put sheet metal screws through the oilpan with sealant on them? That's ghetto. Guilty! This is a ghetto car!!! BTW, the Motor manual shows 1.8 hours as the time allowed to change the pan. I don't see how you can get to the back row of bolts w/o raising the engine a little...? Lance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Guilty! This is a ghetto car!!! BTW, the Motor manual shows 1.8 hours as the time allowed to change the pan. I don't see how you can get to the back row of bolts w/o raising the engine a little...? Lance Yes indeedy. You MUST raise the engine (which is actually quite simple) in order to remove the oil pan. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 lol I need a new jack the seals finally went in a old one. I kept pumping (doing brakes) and I was like hmm is it just me or is it sinking slowly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 I wouldn't even use that jack anymore. Get rid of it as soon as you can. Before it kills someone! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 lol a little late but yes the jack is gone.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Safety first! ;D My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 lol I do need a decent replacement jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 I need to find a super thin hotrod style floor jack. I can't seem to find anything that fits under my car. I'm tempted to check out Harbor Freight. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Themobb Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Taking my life in my hands... I bought four Chinese jack stands with a supposed capacity of 6 tons each. $15 a pop! I figure if they're only good for one ton each, I'll probably be safe... I want to be able to get all four wheels off the ground so I can creep around under the whole car. Lance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 OMG... use jack stands!!! I'd never trust a jack holding up a car.. ( I wont lie i got under a car really quick) but I never spend more then 3 min under the car just just a jack holding up the car.. speaking of that I need to get 2 more jack stands to put the whole car in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 hey I was happing to look over at USMB for something else other then oil pans and I ran into this tread.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=855193#post855193 It might be the oil plate baffle that's leaking? I can do one thing at a time start with the oil pan but if it still leaks then we know it's the baffle and i'd have to pull the engine.. but on the good side of that I can replace that damn throw out bearing is always rattles when I clutch out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 They are talking about the separator plate, not oil baffle. I would get some brake cleaner out and clean the entire oil pan and everything behind it of the oil/grease first. Then try and inspect it every week to see where the oil is coming from. On the older cars the rear main seal had the tendency to leak as much as the plastic (now comes as metal) separator plate. Replacements of these would require the engine to be pulled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 and pulling the engine would be good because I can knock out two other things while I have it pulled.. (rear oil seal and TOB) When I got the car I know the guy said he had the clutch replaced I will try the brake cleaner I have lots of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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