Hit a Curb - Axle/Control Arm Damage - Use an Auto Body or an Auto Repair Shop?

[gogordo]

FYI - I don't have a regular mechanic.

 

I hit a curb the other day by drifting (accidentally) into a curb on a wet road. My front right aftermarket aluminum wheel is definitely shot. It is bent in every direction.

 

I changed to a new set of wheels and everything felt fine except for the alignment. The next day, I felt some vibration coming from the front. So now, here are the symptoms:

 

 

1. Vibrations coming from the front while driving
   
2. Steering wheel is a quarter turn to go straight
   

After doing some research, I figure I will probably need at least some of the following repairs:

 

1. Hub

2. Arm, Lower Control 20202AG00A

3. Knuckle

4. Ball Joint

5. End, Tie Rod Outer 34141AC010

6. End, Tie Rod Inner 34160Ag00A

7. Wheel Alignment

 

So my question is... Do I take it to an Auto Repair Shop or an Auto Body Shop? I need someone to assess the damage and give an estimate.

 

 

• Auto Repair Shop Labor = $80/hr
  
• Auto Body Shop Labor = $40/hr
  

 

This site surveys repair & body shop customers and rates them: http://www.checkbook.org. I found the labor prices there.

[Max Capacity]

$40.00/hr. jump on that. that's dirt cheap.

 

Repair shop that has an alignment rack is the way to go. If there's something bent they will tell you.

[Scruit]

I'd have the dealer do it. I've been bitten twice now by bodyshops relying on unsupervised apprentices to reassemble cars. Nothing like driving home and having zero electrics on your dashboard.

[nm]

$40.00/hr. jump on that. that's dirt cheap.

 

Repair shop that has an alignment rack is the way to go. If there's something bent they will tell you.

Yup, I'd go for the one with alignment equipment.

And make sure you're clear you want it to align without any funny stuff. After I check a curb, i could get OEM alignment without a knuckle, but that was with camber all the way out. No negative camber was possible.

You can save some cash buy guying used parts. i have a used LCA.

If you do junkyard wheels make certiuan they spin them before they ship em. LGT wheels bend really easy. I called a bodyshop that had 2 totaled LGTs. 8 wheels. All 8 of them bent. Some didn't look bent until they spun em. Thankfully, no shipment occured.

[jmun671]

Reputable automotive repair shop with a very knowledgable alignment tech who understands how to diagnose secondary angles; SAI, IA, and also set-back. Dealerships are your best bet but sometimes can leave you with the short end of the stick if they don't have a trained alignment/undercar tech.

 

Don't resort to having primary angles covered up with camber bolts, strut plates, etc. Get it diagnosed & done right the first time. If angles are still out maybe a bent/shifted subframe or tweaked body but you'll know this after wheel alignment attempts. I'm fortunate we have both ingredients here: reputable alignment diagnosis on a great machine with a body-shop equipped with a frame aligner if needed. Hope you find your shop/s.

 

J

[gogordo]

Thank you everyone for your input. I got Just Tires to put it on the alignment machine and give me a print out for free!

 

They told me there was no damage at first and tried to get me to pay $80 for alignment. After I kept asking if they were sure, they invited me to come take a look. Then, he pointed out that it is not really bent out of shape from the looks of it, but you can see some stress at the weld on the Lower Control Arm.

 

See pics below.

 

So now, I want to get my LCA & bushings replaced. What else should I get replaced with it?

 

1. Hub

2. Arm, Lower Control 20202AG00A

3. Knuckle

4. Ball Joint

5. End, Tie Rod Outer 34141AC010

6. End, Tie Rod Inner 34160Ag00A

7. LCA Bushings

8. Wheel Alignment

 

Here are some pics I took:

 

Damaged LCA:

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x124/gogordoebay/P1010167damageside.jpg

 

See how the weld is slightly separated from the steel on the right side in the pic below?

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x124/gogordoebay/P1010173damagefront.jpg

 

Good LCA:

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x124/gogordoebay/P1010184goodside.jpg

 

 

Compare the separated weld from above to the left side of the LCA in the pic below:

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x124/gogordoebay/P1010178goodfront.jpg

[gogordo]

Also, here are my alignment readings. Ouch!

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x124/gogordoebay/DOC070709.jpg

[robinlsb]

Never, ever let a body shop work on the suspension:mad:

[nm]

Get some Superpro or AVO LCA bushings. The OEMs will tear eventually anyhow. Do both sides.

[Platinum_Racing]

^^ +1. Bushings aren't that expensive, might as well go for better quality stuff.

 

It's not that hard to do the parts you need, so whoever's less expensive might be something to consider. Reputation supersedes all though. Go with someone you can trust. Don't worry too much about the alignment for right now though, you can always take the car somewhere else for that. A lot of shops will charge a flat rate for an alignment, whereas they charge hourly for labor. So if you can get the parts installed for even $60/hr, instead of $80/hr, then pay $135-150 for an alignment, you could probably save a few bucks. Most of the parts you need to replace are simple as pie... Pretty straightforward. It might save you some money to have the guys doing the labor eyeball the adjustments, then when you get the car back take it straight to wherever you want to get an alignment.

 

And if you hit the curb there is a very good chance that you're gonna need a new wheel...

I can understand replacing the tie rod ends and the ball joint as an inexpensive precaution, but why the knuckle? Those are rather costly, and pretty hard to bend.

[gogordo]

 

And if you hit the curb there is a very good chance that you're gonna need a new wheel...

I can understand replacing the tie rod ends and the ball joint as an inexpensive precaution, but why the knuckle? Those are rather costly, and pretty hard to bend.

 

I definitely need a new wheel. My wheel is completely mangled.

 

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs090.snc1/5101_934525012314_9321099_59290124_3165528_n.jpg

 

I was reading that knuckled bend and typically if the LCA is replaced, the HUB should be too. So I bought all the parts for ~$100.

 

 

1. HUB $30 used on ebay
   
2. Control Arm $22.5 used on ebay
   
3. knuckle $30 used on ebay
   
4. ball joint $21 new
   
5. lower control arm bushings $21 new
   

 

I think I am going to try replacing the LCA and bushings myself and forget about the HUB and Knuckle. If I end up having to pay someone to do the labor, then I'll have them replace everything.

[Platinum_Racing]

Those are good prices for the used parts.

 

I had an Elantra with a bent rear control rod. I bought an entire rear suspension complete with knuckles, crossmember, brakes, and rods for $150 total... All in 1 piece. 8 bolts, 2 brake lines, and an e-brake cable later and the car was good as new.

[gogordo]

So I am working on removing my LCA and ran into some trouble.

 

I had a problem with the nut that attaches the LCA to the end links. I got it loose and now the nut keeps on turning without loosening. How do I remove it?

 

EDIT: Ahh nevermind. This is where I need the Allen wrench according to this post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108975

[cartech]

when I send back my car to automotive repair shop did remove the axles from the spindles then tried using 99-00 SI endlinks since they have the LCA with the sway bar mounting points more centered like the BLOX LCA's.