tommypenguin Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 I also did some logging but Im not at home and dont have ap software so Ill try to post them Sunday night when I get home. Post up a couple of new logs, if you could post a idle log of stage 1 and stage 2 for about 30 seconds when the car is at running temperature. Then post a new 3rd gear log for stage 1 and stage 2 from 2k-4k given wide open throttle and we'll go from there. Before Philly gets tuned he needs to make absolutely sure his car is in full mechanical working order. No point in getting a protune when you're car can't give consistent results because of a mechanical issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Post up a couple of new logs, if you could post a idle log of stage 1 and stage 2 for about 30 seconds when the car is at running temperature. Then post a new 3rd gear log for stage 1 and stage 2 from 2k-4k given wide open throttle and we'll go from there. Before Philly gets tuned he needs to make absolutely sure his car is in full mechanical working order. No point in getting a protune when you're car can't give consistent results because of a mechanical issue. Thanks. I will try to log these tomorrow night. I do want to rule out mechanical issues before I spend money on a tune. Driving home tonight I was getting boost cut in fifth gear at about 3.5rpms when just speeding up on the highway to pass. So annoying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Before Philly gets tuned he needs to make absolutely sure his car is in full mechanical working order. No point in getting a protune when you're car can't give consistent results because of a mechanical issue. That's why you pony up for a dyno-tune from a reputable shop like Precision. They do a host of mechanical tests on the car before it ever hits the dyno. Boost leak tests, etc. Hell, they even gave me a compression test for free when my car arrived cause it didn't seem to be running right. (thank you Cobb OTS map) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 I plan on going to precision but Im looking to pickup a mid/y and tmic first. Didnt know they perform the mechanical test first tho so thats great to know. Thanks. What did they charge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 That's why you pony up for a dyno-tune from a reputable shop like Precision. They do a host of mechanical tests on the car before it ever hits the dyno. Boost leak tests, etc. Hell, they even gave me a compression test for free when my car arrived cause it didn't seem to be running right. (thank you Cobb OTS map) I have never heard of any tuner in my life doing any mechanical tests before a tune, at least for free. I couldn’t imagine precision checking compression for free without doing spark plugs install for you, its just too much work. Even if they did I wouldn’t expect them to make that regularity. One more thing if you have a ‘boost leak test’, there is no way a tuner would know there is a boost leak unless getting into boost and seeing it through logging, unless philly paid for a ‘pressure test’ and the leak could be coming from a bad exhaust gasket. Philly you should call Precision and ask them if they will do a 'free' compression and pressure test for you when you come in for a tune. I'm curious to hear their response if they did do that before a tune, they would have my respect. As a owner it’s your responsibility to have the car running right when you bring it in for a tune. If the car isn’t mechanically sound enough to hit target boost or give consistent results it’s your call to pay the tuner more money to diagnose and fix the issue you could have done on your own, or get tuned with a mechanical issue. No one will ever take the time to love your car like an owner would, even if you take your car to the best shop in town. I think Philly is going about diagnosing this the right way; he just about has definitive answers. After rereading this whole thread given the logs and results he’s posted it does in fact sound like the tune is the issue now, it wasn’t the only issue at the start of the thread though. Stage 1 probably feels more powerful because you may have hit an ecu failsafe on the stage 2 map, ie overboosting or a lot of learned knock could have caused you to run on wastegate pressure which is 7psi. A few more logs would probably tell the tale of the tape. I would first start by verifying the wastegate is opening on the stage 2 logs since you filed down the dp and go from there depending on the logs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I have never heard of any tuner in my life doing any mechanical tests before a tune, at least for free. Then you've clearly never visited a decent tuning shop. You think you're paying $400-$450 at Precision just for a tune??? You're getting a lot more than that. And Precision isn't the only shop I know that does pre-tune mechanical tests. I couldn’t imagine precision checking compression for free without doing spark plugs install for you, its just too much work. Even if they did I wouldn’t expect them to make that regularity. Like I said, they only did the compression test for me after they realized the car had issues. A compression test is not among the typical tests they do before the tune. However, it was in fact free. If you would like to confirm that, I'll be happy to PM you the details of my tune there Philly and you can call Rich and confirm my story. One more thing if you have a ‘boost leak test’, there is no way a tuner would know there is a boost leak unless getting into boost and seeing it through logging, unless philly paid for a ‘pressure test’ and the leak could be coming from a bad exhaust gasket. I guess you haven't spent much time in turbo go-fast shops. Any decent shop has a device they hook up to the intake, pressurize the system, and then you know right away if you have any leaks. Just follow the whistling noise to the source, and fix. That's how my IC hose to throttle body connection leak was found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 If you have 450$ to spend on a tune they should be doing a lot more than that. You could have saved yourself 300$ by getting an e-tune ($150)… As I said in my post that the only way they could tell he had a vacuum leak prior to dynoing is through a pressure tester. That doesn’t reveal all leaks or reasons to not make target boost, I speak from experience diagnosing these issues and correcting them. Philly posted this thread because he works on his car, is willing to do so and is having an issue he can diagnose on his own with a little help from a person or two that has experienced similar issues. Your approach is to pay someone else to solve the problem; I used to be that way. But I ended up having so many issues that if I paid someone to diagnose and fix every issue I have I would be broke or would have sold the car. I’m done side tracking this thread, Philly you can pm me if you want any more analysis on your logs/issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I appreciate everyones feedback. I didnt get a chance to log last night. I will try to do it tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Philly posted this thread because he works on his car, is willing to do so and is having an issue he can diagnose on his own with a little help from a person or two that has experienced similar issues. Your approach is to pay someone else to solve the problem; I used to be that way. But I ended up having so many issues that if I paid someone to diagnose and fix every issue I have I would be broke or would have sold the car. I used to be the same way with trying to self-diagnose crap, but I came to the conclusion I could save myself a TON of time and aggravation by just driving it 10 minutes over to a professional to fix the issues quickly and properly. (and free or extremely cheaply now that I'm buddies with the owner of the shop) If you don't live near a good shop, then I guess you're quite honestly sh*t out of luck. I've learned that the #1 key to modding is befriending people that honestly know your car and know what they're doing. (and are willing to help for free ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 OK it took me a while but I finally pulled some more logs today. I did not get a CEL with the stage 1 map. I got P0244 CEL with the stage 2 map. I would think this proves that the invidia dp is not an issue, correct? Can the logs show that the invidia dp is not an issue? Like I said before, I took more off the divider than others said they did so I cant imagine its still an issue. Thanks for any help! FYI, I have been waiting for ecu definitions to have infamous tune me via OS. However, I dont feel like waiting anymore so I will be getting him to tune my AP soon.Stage 1 30 sec idle.csvStage 2 30 sec idle.csvStage 1 3rd gear WOT.csvStage 2 3rd gear WOT.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 OK it took me a while but I finally pulled some more logs today. I did not get a CEL with the stage 1 map. I got P0244 CEL with the stage 2 map. I would think this proves that the invidia dp is not an issue, correct? Can the logs show that the invidia dp is not an issue? Like I said before, I took more off the divider than others said they did so I cant imagine its still an issue. Thanks for any help! FYI, I have been waiting for ecu definitions to have infamous tune me via OS. However, I dont feel like waiting anymore so I will be getting him to tune my AP soon. The P0244 is a CEL because you overboosted and your bcs got a high circuit, IIRC. I've had that particular CEL before. Your wastegate door is opening now or you would not be able to bleed off boost at 0% WG like you were before in your other logs ruling out the dp. I think you're stock bcs is the likely culprit now of possibly getting overwhelmed by the amount of boost you're running, your primary wastegate duty cycle may also be set too high causing you to always overboost. Which gear were you in when you got the CEL, 4th, 5th? If you were in either of those gears I bet that is when you overboosted to cause the CEL. Through better boost tuning you could eliminate that particular problem in most cases. I rarely have heard of the stock bcs not being able to hold 18psi. If you are planning on going opensource you could do some trial and error fairly safely to find out if you just need to tune your boost a little more by adjusting a couple of tables. No point in paying for two tunes. I would sell the AP, get the Opensource cable and protune and still have a little cash left over for something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks Tommy. I have a tactrix 2.0 and Im ready to go OS but the only issue is the ecu definitions wont be available for at least another month (probably longer). Since I am tired of my car running like crap and having to shift at 3.5, I am going to get an AP tune until the defs are available. Then I will sell my AP and use OS. When I received the CEL I was in 3rd gear (as per the log title). However, on the stage 2 cobb tune I have gotten the CEL in 3rd, 4th and 5th at various times. Thanks for checking out the logs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpgspecb Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Right after I went stage 2 I noticed 18ish psi of boost. Some of my sooby friends thought that was a bit high. Ive been stage 2 now for about 3000kms and just yesterday got the P0244 CEL. You would think I would have got it sooner. Flashed the code and it hasnt come back. I have a Perrin 1 piece 3" Divorced Downpipe with stock mid/y-pipes and cans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 18 is not bad. I was hitting 20+ according to the AP. You can try the Cobb v104 map but basically the Cobb maps suck. I'm still waiting for OS ecu defs but in the meantime I had infamous1 tune my AP and I am much happier now. Car is super smooth and no CELs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26gtltdlegacy Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 The Invidia DP divorce portion sometimes makes contact with the WG flapper and does not allow the flapper to fully open..which causes an overboost situation. you could sometimes hear a rattling sound when that happens though.. I agree, I doubt the DP is the cause of the idle issue. Did you have any problems removing/installing the rear O2 sensor? Maybe it was damaged? Hey, I have been having some problems with the P0244 code and overboosting quite a bit witht the Perrin single piece downpipe. You said that there was a rattling noise with the wastegate flapper... was this rattling noise only when accelerating hard? b/c i seem to be getting some sort of loud rattle under WOT. Thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsulo Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Glad to hear your getting issues sorted out. Infamous1 has been tuning my car (stage II) and it's really coming along. I need to send him another log but life and weather has been really crappy this week. Anyways -- I had an unsupported ROM loaded on my ECU, and I took it to the dealer and they updated me to the latest version for a pretty reasonable fee. About 80 bucks, and that included getting the TPMS reprogrammed for my summer wheels/tires. This brought me to the supported revision for Rom Raider. If your stuck waiting to go OS cause of your ECU you could try bringing your car to a dealer and having them check for firmware updates... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Anyways -- I had an unsupported ROM loaded on my ECU, and I took it to the dealer and they updated me to the latest version for a pretty reasonable fee. About 80 bucks, and that included getting the TPMS reprogrammed for my summer wheels/tires. This brought me to the supported revision for Rom Raider. If your stuck waiting to go OS cause of your ECU you could try bringing your car to a dealer and having them check for firmware updates... The thing that bites about that is you could of loaded that updated rom yourself via ecuflash for free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsulo Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 It does bite.. But I couldn't find it. I had to send you my copy too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 It does bite.. But I couldn't find it. I had to send you my copy too True Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I am confused by the last few posts. Is there a way to go OS without waiting for the definitions to be released? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I have been having some problems with the P0244 code and overboosting quite a bit witht the Perrin single piece downpipe. You said that there was a rattling noise with the wastegate flapper... was this rattling noise only when accelerating hard? b/c i seem to be getting some sort of loud rattle under WOT. Thanks a lot. I doubt you are having a wastagate issue with the perrin dp. Havent heard of anyone that has. Its probably your tune. Are you running a cobb stage 2 map? What year is your gt? I suspect your rattle is from the heat shield and your CEL is from the cobb tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsulo Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I am confused by the last few posts. Is there a way to go OS without waiting for the definitions to be released? Sort of. The current firmware revision or map that you have loaded hasn't been set up in Rom Raider. There are other (factory) maps that have been set up into Rom Raider. If you can obtain a copy of a supported factory map and update your ECU then you can start tuning. Basically instead of waiting for Rom Raider to support your currently loaded map, you change the map on your ECU to one supported by Rom Raider already. Check here to see if there is a supported ROM for your vehicle http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUVersionCompatibilityList Backup your current one and be careful! If you brick your ECU your gonna be bummed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I am confused by the last few posts. Is there a way to go OS without waiting for the definitions to be released? Depends on the vehicle. The problem for you is, when the defs were create there were no 07' 5mt roms submitted at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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