Drew888 Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 They didn't ?? I came across two USDM vendors selling them. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 really? Carbing's website must be out dated then? It says they have strut bars without the M/C only for LHD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 For those talking about non-subies or eve non-legacies for that matter, we are talking about different dynamics/building/placement of the strut towers. The rear of the LGT doesn't even have strut towers, they are bolted to the subframe/body/floor of the car. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanjk3 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 For those talking about non-subies or eve non-legacies for that matter, we are talking about different dynamics/building/placement of the strut towers. The rear of the LGT doesn't even have strut towers, they are bolted to the subframe/body/floor of the car. -mike True, but as with most modern cars that have their front strut towers close to the firewall, STBs don't make as much of a difference as they would on an older car. STBs are at most a subtle upgrade, won't be a night & day difference. Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Yup that was the point I was making, that they are very marginal at best on modern Subies, especially the 3rd and 4th Gen Legacies and 3rd Gen (08+) Imprezas. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gb003a Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 All I know is that when I take a corner in "spirited" driving the car leans a lot more than I care for. So I hope the sways will make a difference. A little off my own thread...Anyone have pics of where to place my jack for lifting? I know I'm suppose to use the weld pinches for the stands but where do you place the jack to lift the car? I did do a search and there's not much in the way of jacking up a car with a jack and 4 stands. pic wise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 All I know is that when I take a corner in "spirited" driving the car leans a lot more than I care for. So I hope the sways will make a difference. A little off my own thread...Anyone have pics of where to place my jack for lifting? I know I'm suppose to use the weld pinches for the stands but where do you place the jack to lift the car? I do a search and there's not much in the way of jacking up a car with a jack and 4 stands. Sorry, no pics. But you will find them if you search. The official Subaru jack point for the front is the cross member in front of the tranny that the plastic under body cover is bolted to. Your jack should be placed right under the bolt (my jack sits with about 1/2 of the jack pad on each side of the bolt). If you remove the plastic cover the first time it makes it much easier to see exactly where it is. You will have to remove this cover to replace your front sway bar. The rear jack point is the diff. I place a piece of 2x4 on my jack pad and lift very carefully making sure not to lift by the cover. Don't worry, you made the right decision going with the sway bars. You will notice an immediate improvement and the body roll you are complaining of will be greatly decreased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gb003a Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Thanks I can find that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Sorry, no pics. But you will find them if you search. The official Subaru jack point for the front is the cross member in front of the tranny that the plastic under body cover is bolted to. Your jack should be placed right under the bolt (my jack sits with about 1/2 of the jack pad on each side of the bolt). If you remove the plastic cover the first time it makes it much easier to see exactly where it is. You will have to remove this cover to replace your front sway bar. The rear jack point is the diff. I place a piece of 2x4 on my jack pad and lift very carefully making sure not to lift by the cover. Don't worry, you made the right decision going with the sway bars. You will notice an immediate improvement and the body roll you are complaining of will be greatly decreased. Yup, exactly what you said is correct. I usually don't use the 2x4 because it can un-settle the jack a bit, but otherwise dead on how we do all the work at our shop on Subies. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 Yup, exactly what you said is correct. I usually don't use the 2x4 because it can un-settle the jack a bit, but otherwise dead on how we do all the work at our shop on Subies. -mike I would prefer not to use the 2x4. But, my hydraulic jack was originally purchased for my supercharged Frontier with an SLR stage 4 suspension. The jack pad is square with teeth at each side. I use the 2x4 to give the teeth something to bite into other than my diff housing. It is nice to have a jack rated for 4 tons with 36" of lift though, so I use it. Its very stable. For safety and clearance I drive the rear up onto my ramps and then place the jack under the car and lift higher from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 NICE, you definitely don't want the teeth biting into the diffy. Our jack has a rubber pad kinda built into it to cushion it a bit. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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