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SPT Chassis Brace


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The brace comes with hardware and detailed instructions, so this is going to be more tips & tricks than instructions.

 

-Make sure you have a 19 mm deep socket. My metric deep socket set topped out at 18 mm and I had to use a SAE 3/4" deep socket, which is a little loose.

-The front bolts can come out easy or hard, but with the car up on jack stands, they were a PItA to get back in place. The control arm channel likes to move out of line with the brackets on either side, and unless you have 3 hands and bench press a lot more than I do, they can be difficult to reposition while holding the chassis brace in place. What I did was wedge a ~14" piece of scrap wood against the control arm and shove until the channel lined up vertically, then maneuvered the control arm manually to position it side-to-side. Then I jammed the new bolt in there as quickly as I could. That worked for both sides.

-This would be an easier install with a lift than with a jack/jack stands, as my torque wrench was way too long for easy use under the car. I ended up using a shorter socket set to tighten it down as far as possible, then used the torque wrench to finish the job to the required 70 ftlbs.

 

Pics below.

 

PS - I did it while doing the transmission oil. I thought the brace was going to be forward of the gear oil plug, but it was just behind it. You can see the gear oil drain plug in the second picture, just above and to the right of the SPT emblem.

1070471227_chassisbrace1.jpg.e9873315451b0ce4e1d57a0b2aa4ea7d.jpg

1200573544_chassisbrace2.jpg.e302a37cca0ec6703b2605c82db21ecd.jpg

1799632496_chassisbrace3.jpg.bcb46346534f69ce2e5356a8584d4b2e.jpg

Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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No, it's quite a bit further back. I was surprised how far under the car I had to crawl to install the brace. The drain plug that's in the pics is for the transmission oil.
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently installed this chassis brace as well. I'd say, thus far I like the feel that it gives for handling. I don't think it is a dramatic change but you can feel a difference for sure. Best thing to do would be to drive it on a few twisties just before putting it on and then go drive those same twisties rigth after you put it on. DukeTrout's review would be what I would say for the most part, though I don't feel the heavier stearing response that he mentioned.

 

I will however say that the install was very easy, even for someone not that mechanically inclinded. It goes like this:

 

1. Put the front of your car on jack stands to relieve the tension on the suspension.

2. Take out the 2 rear nuts as instructed.

3. Remove the front 2 nuts and bolts as instructed.

4. Position the Chassis brace

5. Put the 2 (new) bolts in place and hand tighten the nuts ont hem

6. Put the rear (new) nuts back on.

7. Hand tighten everything as much as possible.

8. Lower the car and put it on ramps.

9. Toque the remaining 4 nuts as instructed (rear has a different torque rating than the front).

 

And to be honest the front nuts were impossible to get to with a torque wrench so I torqued the bolts instead. In hindsight I should have just switched the sides of the nut and bolt. Not sure if that would be advisable or not. Hell I am not even sure torquing the bolt heads are the right thing to do but I sorrta had no choice - like I said the front bolts would be nearly impossible to get to with a torque wrench.

 

Anyhow, here are some pictures to add to DukeTrout's:

 

Rear nut:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_W28I9cb6jqI/SefKaLkwq1I/AAAAAAAAAE4/3Y0dSOY99cU/s800/DSC00147.JPG

 

Front bolt:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_W28I9cb6jqI/SefKbv_s9fI/AAAAAAAAAFI/mDXQMsiltJs/s800/DSC00149.JPG

 

Front nut, as you can see there isn't really room to fit a torque wrench:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_W28I9cb6jqI/SefKc7gd-BI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/0daZDOyO-7g/s800/DSC00150.JPG

 

Positioning the brace:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_W28I9cb6jqI/SefKdoucgAI/AAAAAAAAAFY/247x42bA4t8/s800/DSC00152.JPG

 

The forward bolts weren't hard at all for me when I installed mine, thankfully. Wish you had the same Duke. Here it is installed:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_W28I9cb6jqI/SefKg-uSimI/AAAAAAAAAGE/zwiNB4vUADY/s800/DSC00162.JPG

I'm just here for the mods.
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I'm glad they were easier for you. One side was fine. The other, I had to bench press the control arm while trying to insert the bolt. At least it was a good workout...
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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AVO and the SPT braces are similar. Both are tube steel with gussets. IMO, it comes down to price and colour preference.

 

Cusco is aluminum and replaces the plates ar the rear of the control arm to make it easier to fit.

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everything SPT is worth the money

 

I hope you're being sarcastic there. LGT SPT intake = epic fail.

Even my SPT cat-back sounds great, but the mid pipe is poorly designed. It hangs so low that I've scraped it on the highway going over a bridge before. (on the stock 4x4 like suspension)

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I have the whiteline brace which is similar and love it. I noticed the front end became extremely tight (well compared to stock) and I did notice a heavier steering feel. I think this is a good mod....just the spt brace is more expensive from what I hear, so there might be better options out there that accomplish the same thing. But I did like this mod.
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The only prices I could find for the Whiteline brace were about the same or more expensive than the SPT part, but I don't doubt that one could find deals.
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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