Dawrah Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 so today i was just doing some general maintenance: cleaned PCV valve, and banjo bolt and some minor other stuff. so i decided to take a look at my LCA bushings after reading how common it is to have them ripped and mashed. car has 74K miles and lo and behold, the bushings were indeed ripped a little and seemed like they were tearing. now i did read that service bulletin that said that rips were okay b/c there is a 20X over engineering built in. but really though, can rips be that okay...??? so i am just seeking some advice, do you guys think i should replace them? AVO ones? car is not lowered btw. right side:http://people.clarkson.edu/~limd/LGT/P1010186.JPGhttp://people.clarkson.edu/~limd/LGT/P1010187.JPG left side: http://people.clarkson.edu/~limd/LGT/P1010189.JPGhttp://people.clarkson.edu/~limd/LGT/P1010190.JPG and while on the topic of AVO, do you guys think the front and rear braces are worth it? and while more off topic, first time the banjo bolt has been pulled: http://people.clarkson.edu/~limd/LGT/P1010122.JPG -clean, so a sigh of relief thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I have the braces and the AVO offset LCA bushings....both will add a bit of NVH but they really do stiffen the entire car up... I have coilovers too so the ride is already a bit rough.... I would say do new sways, standard LCA bushings...drive on it for a while. If you still want more, do the braces and stiffer spring/shock combo.. My .02... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebootyhouse Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 You can ride on the torn ones for a little while. I did. But they should be changed. If you plan on upgrading the LCA bushings from stock, check out Perrins P.S.R.S. too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I've heard that the Perrin PSRS are more noisey then the AVO Poly inserts as they are solid...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Unless your doing track duty, stay away from the PSRS. I just installed them for another member and he wants to take them out and go back to stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebootyhouse Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I've heard that the Perrin PSRS are more noisey then the AVO Poly inserts as they are solid...? I've had them on for 6 months now. They're really not too noisy. Every once in awhile you get little clicks, but they do a great job of taking care of the car tracking side to side on the highway. If you don't want to hear any noise at all and like the cushy feel of the stock suspension, then go with the other set-ups with a bushing and that are not solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawrah Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 thanks for the 6 cents, ive done my rear sway already. i think i may jsut keep driving with the stocks in there for now unless things start to get real bad. eh saves me an alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawrah Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 prolly newb question, but what is the difference between avo or superpros compared to the perrin psrs? applications differences? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 The Perrins are SOLID metal ! Avos and superpros have some type of urethane insulator to absorb some NVH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Any pics of the PCV valve and where you found it on the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawrah Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 sorry, no pics of where the pcv valve is. the haynes manual was very unclear of where it was and the vac pics arent that much better. actually, according to the haynes, there is no pcv valve in turbo models...lol anyways, i'll try to describe where it is: remove the intercooler, and the valve is screwed into a plastic assembly block with three rubber lines coming out of it. it was locatated next to the turbo on the inside side, right above the block; thats why you need to remove the intercooler. one of the rubber lines comes straight out of the block and was about 3 inches long, another line that comes out of the plastic block curves up and around into the intake pipe, and the last line crosses the block horizontally. the actual PCV valve is the metal piece screwed into the plastic block but is almost impossible to remove due to torque and weak plastic. the easiest thing to do is to remove the plastic block along with the pcv valve. now for me, the line coming from the block and going into the intake were crimmped while the cross block line was a squeeze conector. luckily for me i was able to pull the assembly off the crimmped lines one by one and squeeze it back into them. worse comes to worse, cut the crimps and buy hose clamps. but if you work it enough, it should come out of the lines....good crimps lol another easier way to locate the pcv valve is to also look for the oil galley plug on the top of the block, and right next to it will be the rubber hose from the block to the valve assmebly. kinda near the rubber cover to the flywheel. just take the assembly and shoot it up with carb/choke spray liberally. best way to reassemble is to insert the assembly into the hose that goes into the intake first, then into the one into the block (easy b/c its vertical), and then lastly the clamp connector. let me know if this helps or is very confusing, lol. if you need more help i cna try to explain better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt_nube Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 A year ago, at my 60K service, LIC motors (Novato, CA) noticed the damaged bushings on my 2005 LGT. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the bushings under my extended warranty. The longer version is that I talked with the service manager and it was clear to me that he wanted to fix them all but Subaru stopped him from doing that some time ago and then issued a service bulletin in 2006 that said that the crack had to be greater than 15mm to be replaceable under warranty (mine was 33mm). He didn't say so explicitly, but it was also clear to me that he thought Subaru had a design problem on their hands and this was their way of dealing with it. LIC definitely thinks it's a design problem. http://ruthvenphotos.com/files/IMG_0162c_600h.jpg http://http//ruthvenphotos.com/files/IMG_0162c_600h.jpg A few photos of the LGT My current ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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