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What CV axle is bad?


bushbelay

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Wow thank you very much, but I neither have the tools nor the skill to do it completely myself =/ Especially in my school's gravel parking lot. Plus I have to drive 2 hrs to MA and back this fri, then again on sunday to visit a friend. If I tried to do it myself, something would go horribly wrong.

 

I have an appointment set up for this afternoon, Hopefully they do it right and hopefully I don't get ripped off... Again, thank you very much for your help

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So I went to the garage today... and it was warmer than it has been, so the CV axle made NO noise.... The mechanic thought i was crazy. He took me underneath it and all of the boots are in great shape (which i already knew) and he had me hold each CV shaft to feel the play in each. The right side had veeerrrryyyyyy little more play than the left, but it was barely noticeable. He had me drive it to see if he could hear it, but of course, there was no noise. Im glad I didnt have to pay a few hundred dollars, but Im still wondering if i should be worried or not.

 

I know my sister had a torn boot for a while when she owned it, but got it replaced before I got the car. Knowing that, my question is, could there just be some leftover dirt from when the boot was torn that is causing the clicking noises? Could it just be a minor problem that i dont need to worry about for a while? again, it only happens in the cold weather, and when the cv shaft is not at operating temperature... and Ive been driving on this axle for over 9k miles, mostly highway speeds, and nothing has happened.

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There is supposed to be some play in the shafts. That isn't anything out of the ordinary.

If the boots looked okay, it could be a crappy rebuilt shaft. Which, wouldn't surprise me at all.

But, if it isn't doing it consistently, and everything looked okay, I wouldn't be too worried about your axle busting loose and falling out.

 

Just keep an ear out, keep inspecting the car, and be aware of any changes.

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  • 2 months later...

I hit a curb... After replacing by wheel bearing / Hub, the only symptom left is a clicking noise that occurs sometimes when I accelerate or turn.

 

How do I know if this is a problem with the ball joint or the CV joint?

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I have the same exact problem. only when I turn right, esp at low speeds, and esp when the axles are cold. No torn boots or anything. I need to get it fixed sooner or later...

 

I have it turning left...90 legacy

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well Platinum that's odd...Hyundai's are supposed o be decent cars

 

I can't tell if you're being serious or sarcastic, but I'll assume you're serious... :lol:

 

Other than the transmissions, the only problems I had with the car were a recall on the rear brake lines (Which weren't gone yet, but they replaced them anyway since they were a mandatory recall), and a recall on the fuel pump (Which died and was replaced for free). The car also went through lights like no tomorrow (Headlights, sidemarker lights, tail lights, blinkers, you name it), most of which were actually covered under warranty. The problem appeared to be inside the fusebox. For whatever reason, once they replaced the fusebox the car stopped burning through lights. The car went through 2 hydraulic engine mounts.

 

The main problem wasn't with the car, it was with the dealership I went to for warranty repairs. Since I had that car, the dealership went under, changed owners, and then went out of business entirely, which goes to show how bad they were to their customers. Hyundai themselves sent the dealership a free transmission to put in my car. It was the dealership who refused to install it for free. Instead they charged me for labor, which I had no choice but to pay (Since I didn't have the money or the credit to buy or finance another car). I really did like that car though. I had Bosch Platinum 2+ spark plugs, a CAI intake, 2X 12" subwoofers, 2X 8" subwoofers, and a 1,000W amp. It had a 2.0L 140 HP DOHC engine, heated mirrors, independant rear suspension (Which wasn't available on the Nissan Sentra or the Toyota Corrolla), power windows, power locks, remote locks, security system W/ immobilizer, A/C, cruise control, and a bunch of other features that made the car a good Value. I put emphasis on value because value and quality are two totally different things. I never had a problem with the features of the car, but they still felt a little plastic-y and a little bit cheap. Then again, you get what you pay for. To produce a car with those features for $14,500 you have to cut corners somewhere.

 

The biggest thing I regret though, is not trading it in for a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon GT LTD. That car had a factory amp, factory sub, 6 speed manual, 2.7L V6, 4 wheel disc brakes, 17" aftermarket alloys, low-profile tires, spoiler, A/C, power everything, leather interior, cruise control, heated mirrors, and security system with immobilizer, with a mere 60K miles... All for $5K with trade-in. I test drove the car and spun the tires a good 30 feet in second gear uphill. The car wasn't as powerful as a 2.5i, but it was a lot lighter and very tempting... Most importantly of all I could've afforded it at the time. If I had gone that route I probably wouldn't be here. From what I've heard, Hyundai manual transmissions are worlds better than their automatic transmissions. I had a friend with a pathetic old Accent 5 speed, and he beat the crap out of it. He blew his motor before he blew his tranny or clutch, and the engine still ran with 2 connecting rods floating around in the oil pan. It still started after the third connecting rod broke, but it wouldn't run very long.... Sounded like a lawn tractor too... :lol:

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