bushbelay Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 1996 Legacy, 2.2, 5 spd. My car knocks and sounds like a worn CV joint when turning right and/or accelerating fast going straight. However, no torn boot or grease to indicate what axle went. It makes me think this was just a poor re-build job on a re-conditioned axle. I am wondering, if I am knocking when turning right, what axle would be going out? Like I said before, no torn boot, or grease anywhere to indicate the problem side. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sliCCriC Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 i think you just have to pull it out and check it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeyMcShanker Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 You could try getting it up on stands and turning it full lock right and spin each wheel with your hands and see if it shows up then. You can feel for play ie. wheel spins a small amount before axle spins or listen for a sound. That's the only way of telling I can think of without pulling them both and checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbelay Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 I suppose I could . . . but there just seems like there is an easier way to tell by the direction I am turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I would also not rule out the transfer clutches as they can cause a sensation in the steering where the steering wheel is fighting you when you turn in a direction(mainly slower speeds) and it can also make similar noises as a bad axle. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I have the same exact problem. only when I turn right, esp at low speeds, and esp when the axles are cold. No torn boots or anything. I need to get it fixed sooner or later... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbelay Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 I would also not rule out the transfer clutches as they can cause a sensation in the steering where the steering wheel is fighting you when you turn in a direction(mainly slower speeds) and it can also make similar noises as a bad axle. The transfer clutches were on my check-list. However, on reading about them a little more I ruled them out because the car doesn’t bind or shutter when turning and accelerating. Do you know any tests a home mechanic can perform in determining problems with the transfer clutches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Open the hood and grab onto each front CV shaft. Wiggle it around while rotating it. If there's any endplay you've found your bad shaft. This works for me, I had the same problem with my 92. Got the shaft out, got the new one in... voila! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Open the hood and grab onto each front CV shaft. Wiggle it around while rotating it. If there's any endplay you've found your bad shaft. This works for me, I had the same problem with my 92. Got the shaft out, got the new one in... voila! Kind of a late reply, but does that really work?? I hear the noise when i turn right, and it sounds like its coming from the right side, but I know noises are hard to diagnose from inside the car. How long do they last btw? ive been driving on mine for a good 9,000 mi..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 So I just had a shop fix a CV boot that was about to break (hadn't broken yet, just scored). They said the axle was fine... In addition to messing up my 2 month old alignment, I think I now have the same noise you guys do. I should take it back and complain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I would because the noise could be from the repair they did. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 I would because the noise could be from the repair they did. Don't worry, they'll be seeing me tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 pleaase let us know what the noise ends up being Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old legacy GT Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 yeah just got the same thing happining too me know but not under load or braking but like when going straight over 50K's right turns (low load!) but even pulling the steering a little left it stops!!! I think it is a CV problem though!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 pulling steering is braking issue probably. Does the noise change as you swerve side to side? That would be wheel bearing. What about if you really step on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 If the noise happens when you're turning right, it's the right CV Shaft. I've done CV shafts on a couple different cars, and that trick really does work just in case you're not 100% sure. What's it cost to try it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 If the noise happens when you're turning right, it's the right CV Shaft. I've done CV shafts on a couple different cars, and that trick really does work just in case you're not 100% sure. What's it cost to try it? Awesome man thank you very much. You prob just saved me a couple hundred bucks to have a dealer diagnose it. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 A pulling steering is a steering alignment issue for the most part. A pulling steering while braking is a braking issue. Very rarely a bad axle will not cause the car to pull while driving straight. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 But it will cause it to click like crazy under accelerating while turning, or while reversing. I've had to do this procedure on 3 different cars, my Subaru came from the dealer with a bad shaft, and I bought the car anyway because the shaft was only $70 and takes about 2 hours to put in, from jacking the car up, to letting the car down. One car I had (Hyundai Elantra) needed a shaft and I didn't put it in in time. It broke and smashed into the tranny, knocking a football size hole into it. Little more unlikely for that to happen in a Subie, because the engine is longitudinaly mounted in the bay, but a broken CV shaft can still wreak havok on suspension and steering components. Chances are in a Subie it would knock out brake lines, bend a tie rod, and possibly weven rip off the sway bar link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 so i should probably stop procrastinating and get that fixed eh?? :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Probably. The extent of the damage it will cause is also proportional to speed. If it breaks while accelerating from a dead stop (2-5 MPH) it probably won't do much but clank and your car won't go anywhere. If you're going over 30-35 MPH be prepared for some minor damage. Any faster than that and you could potentially have some major damage, or possibly get the shaft wedged into the control arm, seizing the wheel and causing you to lose control... worst case scenario. That would only happen if the inner CV joint were to break, which is less likely than the outer joint breaking. In my situation, I was going about 45 MPH, I heard a clank, my RPM's went up unexpectedly, there were about 4 or 5 loud clanks that you could feel through the whole car, then some softer clanks as the broken shaft fell out the bottom of the car. When i finally came to a stop, you could see a long trail of red tranny fluid coming from under the car, leading all the way down the road. I never found the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 :eek: wow now this is starting to freak me out. I usually drive on the highway, and I drive 450 miles home to PA, all highway..... was it making consistent noises before it broke? was it only making noise while u were turning? or in a straight line? Mine seems to be making a lot less noise now that its getting warmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 The only time one broke on me it got a lot worse RIGHT before it finally went out. It would click under acceleration or turning. The time it broke on me I was turning out of a parking lot, accelerated to about 45 MPH, it clicked the whole time. Then when I reached 45 it was still clicking after acceleration, even more steadily thanit normally would've, then.... *Clank* The rest is history. Funny part is, the car was under warantee. I took it to Hyundai to fix the CV Shaft. They told me it was a wheel bearing and an engine mount. I told them to fix the CV Shaft anyway. They said it wasn't under warantee because it wasn't a CV Shaft. I argued and argued but got nowhere. I just let them fix the wheel bearing, and they said I could come back in a week when they got the engine mount. If the car wasn't going to be fixed for free I would've just fixed it myself. I got the car at the dealership, and pulled out of the parking lot. This is where all the action happened... About 400 feet outside their dealership is where the CV Shaft they said was fine destroyed my tranny. Needless to say, I didn't hesitate to call up that dealership and give them an earful. They said that I shouldn't have taken the car because it wasn't done yet, and that it was because of the engine mount that the CV Shaft broke. I agreed that a broken engine mount could cause premature CV Shaft faliure, but the shaft was already damaged when it broke. I told them to fix my tranny for free. they argued. I called Hyundai corporate and had them send a company rep to the dealership to inspect the damage. The rep said the dealership had to put in a tranny for me at no cost, and had one sent to the dealership at no cost. When the company rep left, they said I'd still have to pay for labor. $700 later I had my car back, and 40,000 miles after that (349 miles after their 100,000 mile warantee expired) that tranny died. Then I got rid of that car for good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caschmidt Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 OH MY GOD.... I can't believe they got away with making you pay $700!! You told them it was the CV, they denied it, told you to take the car home and bring it back when the engine mount was in. Then, after it broke, they said you shouldn't have taken the car ?!?! WTH!! I would be so pissed off. It's so frustrating some how many idiots can run/ work at these places. And to think that if the tranny had gone 350 miles before (for the 2nd time)... you would prob still have the car.... what idiots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 Yeah, but that dealership is out of business now anyway. At least they got what was coming to them. On top of that when I picked up the car and brought it home I put it on ramps and checked it out. They lost a bolt holding the motor to the tranny, the rest of the bolts weren't torqued down causing tranny fluid to leak out, and the car immediately threw a check engine light (Found out it was a faulty speed sensor). http://www.subaruaxles.com/SB-8011.html Here's your CV Shaft. $58 excluding shipping. You might want to get under there and make sure it's the right one, but like I said... For $60 and about 2 hours of work what's there to lose? I did have the entire step by step walkthrough for installing the shaft all typed up, but I accidentally hit the back button on my mouse and lost it all, so if you're interested I'll post it again, but right now I'm not feeling up to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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