1-3-2-4 Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 After my little mishap on the highway yesterday (see the missed shift thread) I was looking at the timing belt and the belt mark on the cam and the mark on the belt... they were not aligned but so far off I don't think they were installed right? I engine could run with it this far off? the cam and crank seals have to be replaced haha I dunno when the last time they had been replaced but at 198,161 they are leaking just a tad. here is the picture http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3795/dsc9025.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 The mark on the Tbelt isn't too bad off. Where's the mark on the cam sprocket? It's hard to see in a photo. Just remember, the arrow on the sprocket isn't an alignment mark, it shows position of the pistons. There is a hash mark on the machined smooth part of the sprocket, that is the mark you want to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 a hash mark? I'm still out here (had to run and get a bypass hose because the hose was so old it stuck to the water pump.. the water pump is in and so is all the idlers and stuff however I can't get the damn timing belt on.. over the last idler with the sprockets... it's so damn tight it wont go on. I was trying so hard I knocked off the timing for the drivers side. In which now I'm trying to set it right again.. I thought the white marks on the cams and crankshaft where the aliment marks. Any help would be appreciated. since I got everything done and all that's left is putting in the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 This is where I'm at now... looks like I have to remove the sprocket idler? sorry if it's a little confusing.. the driver side cam turned on me trying to force the belt on the idler next to the water pump which caused the driver side cam to turn.. I'm guessing the white mark is the aliment mark since all three have marks (both cams and crank) This is the last part before I put the covers back on and the radiator back in. http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8690/dscf0078p.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 So I stopped for tonight.. too cold out.. but anyways I did what I said in removing the idler next to the water pump and I finally got the belt on and from what it seems the cam is lined up (will know for sure tomorrow) playing with the old idlers two out of the 3 started to get loud and felt "rough" and the biggest of all (the biggest) was the water pump.. the impeller had some much play I could cause it to hit the WP housing... I did not pull the pin yet for the belt http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5592/dscf0081m.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 When was the last time the water pump and idlers were replaced? My water pump actually seized at 92,000 miles, and it isnt' unheard of for idlers to fail around 180k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 I have no clue.. I brought the car at 198,158 and it was already shot.. So I dunno at all :-/ wish I could tell you.. the idlers I can't tell but a lot of them are loud when you turn them. car has about 198,170 on it now. i could not drive much of anyplace because of the overheating because of the failed water pump... speaking of that I took the old thermostat out and tested it in hot water, all was good but the coolant was like nasty should I flush it from the engine block now? I'm putting in a brand new koyo radiator so no need to flush that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 OMFG!! I got everything back on including the covers and I pour in the fluid and it's ******* leaking again!!!! I just want to scream!! How in the hell is it leaking with a new OEM subaru gasket on it?????? *EDIT upon looking it seems to be pouring from the thermostat housing like mad... I see no wetness from the waterpump haha I saw my mistake.. the gasket goes around the thermostat I did not see that when taking the other one out since it was so gunked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 all done and no leaks Highway tested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autoboty2k Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Hey take your cover off and look at the marks on the belt and cam gear again. I bet they dont line up, again. The marks on the cam belt are just for installation purposes, once the engine turns the belt, the marks are not going to line up again. And for future timing belts, take the two idler pulleys off from the passenger side, run your belt starting at the crank and move toward the left (driver's side) over the cam around the waterpump cog pulley and then around the right side cam gear. let the ridges where the pulleys bolt to hold the belt in place and then install the top pulley, followed by the bottom pulley, and if you are using the factory pulleys, orange goes on bottom, black goes on top. Always rotate the motor by hand before installing the covers and make sure that there is no interference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Well it's still fine but I need to replace the passenger side cam cover since the bolt and the part that it screws into came out as one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 That's funny, I made the mistake of reusing the old thermostat gasket, which was torn up pretty good. Ended up leaking the moment I turned the car on after I completed everything. You probably had the same "oh shit" look on your face as I did when I saw it dripping coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 haha sure did the gasket was so old I had to pry the whole thermostat out.. my mistake was when i was taking it out I did not know the gasket was around the t-stat haha.. I learned the hard way as soon as I poured in almost one whole bottle of coolant and it was pouring and not dripping so fast... man and just to think it was near about 9Pm when I was finally done and the wind was blowing the coolant all over me ha. everything is good but I don't have the right radiator bolts in the car!! and I can't find which bolts go in that spot.. I might of by mistake used the bolts for the belt cover but I need a new passenger side cam cover since the bolt was so rusted it snapped the cover behind the cam and the cover flew off someplace :-/ I don't think I will take the cam off anytime soon just to do the cover I might just ziptie it instead for the time being. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old legacy GT Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 I just loosened all the pulleys I could so I didn't pull the timing the 4 cams are a bitch cause the 2 left or right when you are looking at it are loaded and if you so much as touch them the spin out it took me soooo long to figure out how to do it but leaving all the pulleys loose got it for me with out making those left cams out of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 whoohoo I hit 199,000 today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93subaru Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 hey i have a 1993 legacy and i need to replace the water pump also...i have never really worked on this car before or any car like this...can any one give me some info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 hey i have a 1993 legacy and i need to replace the water pump also...i have never really worked on this car before or any car like this...can any one give me some info What do you need for info? Read this thread, and look at the pics and replies. It's the same engine, same parts for your 93, so that will help you out some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 What do you need for info? Read this thread, and look at the pics and replies. It's the same engine, same parts for your 93, so that will help you out some. You forgot to include a link, maybe? My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 You forgot to include a link, maybe? I think he meant this thread as in.... this thread.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 haha beat me to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93subaru Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 how do i take out the crank pulley bolt with out spinning the pulley? couldnt figure out a way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93subaru Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 oh and by the way how the hell do you take out the belts? these things dont have belt tensioners or what??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 I think he meant this thread as in.... this thread.... Ah! I wasn't sure if he was attempting to link to another thread pertaining to the exact question already covered. My fault! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 how do i take out the crank pulley bolt with out spinning the pulley? couldnt figure out a way oh and by the way how the hell do you take out the belts? these things dont have belt tensioners or what??? Go to this page and download the PDF repair/service manual using the information at the bottom of the page. It's very easy to follow with drawings and everything. True life saver... http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/subaru/1996-subaru-legacy-service-manual-owners-manual-service-supplement-tsb-pdf.html My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 There are so many small tricks you learn while doing a Tbelt change. Not everyone has the Subaru approved "special" tools, so being innovative while still being careful really helps. To break that pulley bolt, if you have an AT, there is an access hole at the top of the torque converter, throw a long ass screwdriver in there to jam it up, and the crank will not spin. Giving you plenty of leverage to break the bolt. If you have an MT, you can rest a long breaker bar on the side of the shelf inside the engine, "bump" the starter, by starting the car for only a second, and that will also break the bolt. It takes a lot of force, so don't be discouraged if you can't get it the first time. If you just take off the idler right above the crank sprocket, it will make it loose enough so you can take the belt right off. For pictures, reference this site: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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