Alex1 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Hey, i just went to Tweeter Ect and got a qoute on a system... The guy sat in my car and said the stock system wasnt that bad but the sub could be better... which is what i wanted anyways, the speakers ill upgrade later... so we went through all the subs and this is what he qouted me: monoblock class d 2chn #ej400d (i think this is the amp) 299.99 jla cvs1106-w3v2 sealedbox (this is the sub/box) 269.99 cap-500 4 gauge amp power 64.95 amp install is 59.99 waranty is 39.99 2c-3m micro xln cab (i think these are random wires) 29.95 so all that comes out to 798 or somthing!! thats insanely exspensive although install is cheap!! help me what do i do! i dont have that much money!!! its just a 10 inch sub and then some jl amp that has teh base control... tell me what you guys think.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S4 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 I'll sell you an MTX amp and 3 JL 12W0s in a sealed powerwedge. $400 for everything. You just have to get cables and installed. I can verify that the subs do fit in the trunk, and it actually looks nice. Just don't plan on using it for anything else though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Actually, that's about right. A 10W3 woofer, IIRC, runs about $200, so $270 in a box built by JL and vinyl wrapped is a good deal. That's mid-level JL stuff - I think they have one level lower though (CS110RGW0). It's carpeted instead of vinyl wrapped. Maybe drop to that and an E1200 amp (120 watts vs 240) get it down around $500. Delete the warranty....no need with JL stuff. If it has an issue, it will show up within the JL warranty period. If you need cheaper prices, you might need to drop down to something at Best Buy or Circuit City. Good luck.... -Dan I have a box with two JL 10W3's (V1's) and another with one PPI PRO-10 in it sitting in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustinw Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 That's a decent price for what you are getting. I don't see a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 To be honest, it sounds about right on. Tweeter is usually a little pricey though, so don't be affraid to take the stuff they want to put in and shop around for it. You could easily save a good chunk of money that way. For comparison, from my last car, sub stuff only... Alpine Class D digital amp - (350W x 1) - $300-350 Rockford Fosgate 12" - (600 peak, 275 min RMS) - $150-200 Sub box - $50 Wire...can range a good amount, but certainly the last place you want to short change yourself. Wires can really make or brake a system. All in all i think it was 600-700 or so, i did the install myself though. Sub stuff is usually some of the most expensive stuff you can try and get into the car. In our case, we either need a seperate external crossover, or an amp with speaker level inputs. This not only increases the amp price, but also limits your choices. You could try it with just one sub, that may drop the price of both the amp and speaker itself. It depends really how far away you want people to hear you. In terms of normal operation, you really aren't losing much by going from two "average" subs to one "good" one. Not to imply what they quoted you as average, but there are always more options. Welcome to the world of car audio...once you start, its an itch which gets expensive and never seems enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 FYI - The equipment quote was a single 10" sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 FYI - The equipment quote was a single 10" sub. oh....well nothing against JL as they certainly make GOOD stuff, but 270 for one 10" in a box is pushing it for my personal taste. If i am spending that i would like to have a 12". But then you get into the 10" vs. 12" and pros and cons.... oh boy However, it does depend on each units capabilities. JL though is probably not the way to go if you are looking to "save" money off that cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 JL makes four levels of subs (W0, W3, W6, and W7) in sizes 8, 10, 12 and 15 (maybe even 18's still) - one to fit every budget. The quote was for a vinyl wrapped 10W3 box. Their boxes comes in all different configs, to suite your taste. One point - a single 10W7 will play louder, handle more power, sound better, and be a smaller solution than a pair of 12W0's. Quality > quantity. IIRC, the retail on the CS110R-W0 box was $179 - you could talk Tweeter down to $160 or so. Quite a fair price for an angled MDF enclosure ($100 and up), JL woofer ($115) and JL grill ($15). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 This is what I got shopping around (with shipping): Sony Class D 400/800W @ 2 ohms $110 Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1D 350/1400W $129 MDF box - $32 4 gauge install kit - $20 Best Buy High/low adapter - $23 AudioControl DQT (used) $110 $424 total, self installed. I get more power and a better response curve Of course I did spend like a week looking around for the best bargain parts, like the discontinued (yet new) sony amp. The replacement moves up a little in wattage, otherwise the same. I also recently got a ratcheting tie down for $13.. works very well the secure the sub, probably better than sending screws into the MDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 JL is overrated anyway, imo. That is a nice sub, but $100 for a 10" sub would be adequate, and then just get a sealed box for like $40 more. Also, you could probably get an A/B amp for less than that class D amp and it will sound just as good, maybe better. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 JL amp > Sony amp any day of the week with same power rating. Sony's amps are power-rated ILS... If Lightning Strikes. I should know - I used to sell both. JL amp customer = 99% satisfaction. Sony amp customer = 50% satisfaction and a future JL, Fosgate, Alpine or PPI customer. IMHO, Alpine is the only Japanese company that gets amps 'right'. Japanese for head units, American for amps, and speakers are anybody's game (most are made in China). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 JL amp > Sony amp any day of the week with same power rating. Sony's amps are power-rated ILS... If Lightning Strikes. I should know - I used to sell both. JL amp customer = 99% satisfaction. Sony amp customer = 50% satisfaction and a future JL, Fosgate, Alpine or PPI customer. IMHO, Alpine is the only Japanese company that gets amps 'right'. Japanese for head units, American for amps, and speakers are anybody's game (most are made in China). Yeah, saw this coming from a mile away.. Amp is rated 400W RMS and I'm driving a sub rated for 350W RMS. So I don't even care if it can't do 400. Not only that but if I were to actually drive 350W RMS into the sub I doubt the car would still be in one piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockford33 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Just for comparison, I don't think the prices are all that bad for quality equipment. I bought my subs/amp about 10 years ago, and it was a lot more. Here's the breadown: 2 12" Soundstream SPL12's - $225 each 1 Rockford Power 50x2 amp - $500 1 Rockford 1 farad capacitor - $175 Custom Built sub box - $175 That's $1075 just for the subs and amp, not including wiring or distribution blocks, etc. You get what you pay for. I bought all of my systems one piece at a time, did what installation I could myself to save on cost, waited for year-end sales or bought last years model, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1 Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 thanks guys, i guess i could get lower quality stuff... although i would like to have the same brands with subs and amps instead of mixing and matching them... i have to go towork now but ill be back at 12 to reread these -alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Yeah, saw this coming from a mile away.. Amp is rated 400W RMS and I'm driving a sub rated for 350W RMS. So I don't even care if it can't do 400. Not only that but if I were to actually drive 350W RMS into the sub I doubt the car would still be in one piece. Deer Killer - What model Sony amp is it? Let's dissect the specs and compare apples to apples. I am trying to help here, not poke holes. I worked at a high-end shop and was around some of the best guys in the business before and during that time. For the record, good clean power won't kill a sub. I had a Phoenix Gold MS-2125 with the factory mono mod. It put out about 800 watts at 4ohms of clean, no-distortion power. I have driven a ton of subs with it - some that are rated to take that power and most that were not. Power = control. As long as the amp isn't driven into distortion, the voice coil on the sub can handle temporary peaks. The power handling rating of a subwoofer is based on it's thermal load - how much heat the voice coil can dissipate safely. Amp distortion = heat. Audio isn't a constant thing.......rarely will an amp need to deliver max power. Headroom is what leads to dynamics and thus good sound. It's not just about perceived loudness. A good amp will give you dynamic power at low volumes. When I was in the business, a guy I knew was involved in some research with a few experts. Richard Clark and David Navone. They used some 2kW Krell mono-block amps to load test the drivers they were developing. Never a blown driver. That says something about clean power, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 i wouldn't worry too much about the same company sub and amp. I went with the Alpine amp last time for several reasons, topping the list was just its compatibility with my Alpine head unit. Since they were the same, i could adjust all my settings of the amp through my deck, rather than have to physically get at the amp to change them. Made it MUCH easier. Everything worked together, which was nice. If you are looking to save money i would seriously consider looking around a lot more, just one place won't do much justice. Also a LOT of stuff can be found online sometimes at a great price. + 1 on JL > Sony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFGR415 Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 JL makes four levels of subs (W0, W3, W6, and W7) in sizes 8, 10, 12 and 15 (maybe even 18's still) - one to fit every budget. Actually...the W0 is discontinued...it has been replaced with the W1 except for 6 and 8 inch sizes...W6 and W7's do not come in 15...they come in 13.5... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 The W0 replaced the W1 back in '99. Is the W1 back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric L Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 The W0 replaced the W1 back in '99. Is the W1 back? The new W1's are prerelease right now... My understanding is they aren't being made in the states anymore.... they are being made overseas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFGR415 Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Yea...the W1v2 replaced the W0 but my store has only recieved the 12 inch models... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex1 Posted February 23, 2005 Author Share Posted February 23, 2005 im nervous to go to best buy or circuit city because i hear they do shotty installs... plus they dont have all the same things, if im gona do it, i want to do it right like the tweeter guy said... anycahnce i could get those parts alot cheaper?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustinw Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 a little cheaper online, but not enough to make it worth the effort of getting it shipped and installing it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Deer Killer - What model Sony amp is it? Let's dissect the specs and compare apples to apples. XM-D400P5 /me ducks For the record, good clean power won't kill a sub. I had a Phoenix Gold MS-2125 with the factory mono mod. It put out about 800 watts at 4ohms of clean, no-distortion power. I have driven a ton of subs with it - some that are rated to take that power and most that were not. Power = control. As long as the amp isn't driven into distortion, the voice coil on the sub can handle temporary peaks. The power handling rating of a subwoofer is based on it's thermal load - how much heat the voice coil can dissipate safely. Amp distortion = heat. power = heat. This is nonsense. Electrical power flows into the coil, and gets converted to motion, heat, a magnetic field, or EM radiation. Normally if everything is working properly you are achieving good efficiency from the unit which means more power is converted to motion than not. When you have an amp that is clipping it's ouput, it means you are getting very high frequency high power output, this cannot be efficiently converted to physical movement therefore more of it becomes heat more than normal operation, leading to a condition in which less power produces more heat at the coil. If you hook an 400W RMS amp into a 350W RMS sub, and you actually RUN IT at 400W RMS, no matter how clean the output, it will also overheat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 im nervous to go to best buy or circuit city because i hear they do shotty installs... plus they dont have all the same things, if im gona do it, i want to do it right like the tweeter guy said... anycahnce i could get those parts alot cheaper?? This can sometimes be true....use caution. You could always buy stuff and take it to tweeter to install. They may not be as happy, but i doubt they will turn you away. Then there is always the option of finding a car audio shop and have them do the work. Put it this way, how much are you looking to spend? Maybe if you give us an idea, we can point you in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 XM-D400P5 /me ducks power = heat. This is nonsense. Electrical power flows into the coil, and gets converted to motion, heat, a magnetic field, or EM radiation. Normally if everything is working properly you are achieving good efficiency from the unit which means more power is converted to motion than not. When you have an amp that is clipping it's ouput, it means you are getting very high frequency high power output, this cannot be efficiently converted to physical movement therefore more of it becomes heat more than normal operation, leading to a condition in which less power produces more heat at the coil. Actually, if you re-read my whole post....we are saying the same thing in different ways. If you hook an 400W RMS amp into a 350W RMS sub, and you actually RUN IT at 400W RMS, no matter how clean the output, it will also overheat. Wow....guess you have never seen a McIntosh amp with analog power meters. Rarely does the amp hit rated power, despite blistering volume levels. Power is not constant, unless you are playing a test track of white or pink noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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