kuryakin Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 So, I have an 05 GT wagon, stick shift, warped front rotors, cut then replaced by the dealer, warranty expired, I replaced them with slotted and drilled front rotors, and now they're warping AGAIN! So, anyone have ANY success finding a permanent fix that doesn't cost a fortune?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 change your driving habits? Not to be mean i dont see why that should be happening with performance rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOVEMYSUBE Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Did you go with after aftermarket pads too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 ^ +1 change out your pads and rotors. Stock pads are a big cause of this problem. I had this problem when my car was new and it took complaining a bit to get them to replace my rotors and pads.. since then.. its all been pretty good. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToySubie Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 what kind of rotors and pads did you get? type of pads would be important and I'd rather get brembo blanks than some not so great slotted/drilled rotors, in fact, I don't think I'd get drilled rotors at all.. they're like cheese graters.. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Your rotors are not warped. Ditch the OEM pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobo69 Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Your rotors are not warped. Ditch the OEM pads. i would bet pad deposit too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 i have cross drilled + slotted rotors. but i did just change to hawk hp+ its alot easier on the rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I did however have my rotors warp twice on my H6 Outback. No you didn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuryakin Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 Well, your suggestion is rather ludicrous, given this IS a performance car, after all, meant to be driven spiritedly. I did clean the rotors with a Scotchbrite pad on a drill with the rotors spinning, left a wonderful finish! But did nothing for the shaking. I will get a dial indicator and check for runout, but I'm fairly certain I'll find runout to be out of spec. I occasionally had this issue with my 300ZXTT, but it took a LOT to warp those. The Subie, easy to do, apparently. So, where does one get OE spec Brembo rotors? change your driving habits? Not to be mean i dont see why that should be happening with performance rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 you could get a bbk and ditch the setup entirely. may be cheaper to buy a 2nd car tho. I think the jury is still out on the lgt being a performance car. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 lol 2nd car true that.. bbk not worth it. new rotors and pads is all that is needed. and by changing pads you cant change them with factory ones get some real aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Yes I did. They were replaced twice under warranty No they weren't, regardless of how many times you put new ones on and who paid for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuryakin Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Gee, anyone have any HELPFUL comments? you could get a bbk and ditch the setup entirely. may be cheaper to buy a 2nd car tho. I think the jury is still out on the lgt being a performance car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockyMtnGT Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Your rotors are not warped. Ditch the OEM pads. +1 It's definitely the pads bro... I had the same "problem" as you until I went with Hawk HPS pads...lovin' the brakes ever since. Do a search their are lengthy threads about this... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88468 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Gee, anyone have any HELPFUL comments? whast the deal we gave you lots of helpful comments and so far they havent seemed to be what you were looking for so I was suggesting the next logical step. If replace stock pads and calipers=0 then upgrade entire system. The stock pads break into chunks, they leave powder on the rims and they CAN cause warpage or become wavey within themselves and emulate warped rotors. A lot of us have had this problem. if you have aftermarket pads and rotors already and its still warping them I'm not sure what to tell you unless there is something somehow wrong with the caliper.. which still brings us back to an upgrade or an oem component replacement. I had the dealer replace my rotors and pads on all 4 wheels when I had 30k miles on the car after replacing pads and turning rotors for the 4th time. Since that I have had no major issues with my brakes. :crossfingers: the only down sides I see to a bbk would be the cost (obviously) and the fact that they wont clear oem rims (unless they clear spec Bs.. dunno bout that... was thinking about it this morning on the way in to work behind a "binary driver." ) I was being sarcastic in my post but I'm still trying to help with ideas. If you've alerady upgraded parts of your brake system you may be more receptive to upgrade it further than I would be.. who knows. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 whast the deal we gave you lots of helpful comments and so far they havent seemed to be what you were looking for so I was suggesting the next logical step. If replace stock pads and calipers=0 then upgrade entire system. The stock pads break into chunks, they leave powder on the rims and they CAN cause warpage or become wavey within themselves and emulate warped rotors. A lot of us have had this problem. if you have aftermarket pads and rotors already and its still warping them I'm not sure what to tell you unless there is something somehow wrong with the caliper.. which still brings us back to an upgrade or an oem component replacement. I had the dealer replace my rotors and pads on all 4 wheels when I had 30k miles on the car after replacing pads and turning rotors for the 4th time. Since that I have had no major issues with my brakes. :crossfingers: the only down sides I see to a bbk would be the cost (obviously) and the fact that they wont clear oem rims (unless they clear spec Bs.. dunno bout that... was thinking about it this morning on the way in to work behind a "binary driver." ) I was being sarcastic in my post but I'm still trying to help with ideas. If you've alerady upgraded parts of your brake system you may be more receptive to upgrade it further than I would be.. who knows. Our Wilwood Kit will clear stock wheels Plus thicker, higher quality pads will probably reduce the chances of this happening again almost to nil. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Well, your suggestion is rather ludicrous, given this IS a performance car, after all, meant to be driven spiritedly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuryakin Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 And I am trying to gather ideas based on actual experiences. I've told what I've done, and want to hear from folks who have actually experienced this problem and have found a solution! I will be doing the runout check sometime this week. Yes, I have stock pads. No chunks, but black dust which is EXTREMELY common, and isn't part of this problem. Annoying, yes, but doubtful the dust is the cause of the shudder. When I replaced the pads, I checked and lubed the pins, used the gold grease where I was supposed to, etc. Nothing stuck, nothing seized, nothing dragging. And, as I noted, polishing the disc surfaces with a Scotchbrite pad on a drill with the rotors spinning in a lathe made them pretty, but didn't help, so I think I can rule out deposits. So, let's say I do find warped rotors, who makes the most warp resistant rotors? whast the deal we gave you lots of helpful comments and so far they havent seemed to be what you were looking for so I was suggesting the next logical step. If replace stock pads and calipers=0 then upgrade entire system. The stock pads break into chunks, they leave powder on the rims and they CAN cause warpage or become wavey within themselves and emulate warped rotors. A lot of us have had this problem. if you have aftermarket pads and rotors already and its still warping them I'm not sure what to tell you unless there is something somehow wrong with the caliper.. which still brings us back to an upgrade or an oem component replacement. I had the dealer replace my rotors and pads on all 4 wheels when I had 30k miles on the car after replacing pads and turning rotors for the 4th time. Since that I have had no major issues with my brakes. :crossfingers: the only down sides I see to a bbk would be the cost (obviously) and the fact that they wont clear oem rims (unless they clear spec Bs.. dunno bout that... was thinking about it this morning on the way in to work behind a "binary driver." ) I was being sarcastic in my post but I'm still trying to help with ideas. If you've alerady upgraded parts of your brake system you may be more receptive to upgrade it further than I would be.. who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 So, let's say I do find warped rotors, who makes the most warp resistant rotors? No one. Avoid the conditions that cause the problem in the first place... your driving style (not a bad thing, just a factor in the equation) and the sub-par OEM pads. Turn the rotors if you choose, or replace them with OEM blanks, but certainly get rid of the OEM pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 trackhore's being a bit of a tease with his comments, and kind of a jerk but he's right. Chances are... your rotors didn't warp. Rotor warp is a misconception. It's not impossible for it to occur, but it is very, very unlikely. The overwhelming cause of vibration and shudder under braking is uneven pad deposits/transfer left on the rotor, usually caused by pressing a brake pad onto a really hot rotor surface, and leaving it on there long enough to leave a pad imprint. Here is an article that spells it out rather well: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Basically, if the rotors are installed properly, your rotors are not going to literally warp as warping implies that your rotors are actually deforming. Anyway, moving right along... get better pads first and foremost because better pads will not melt onto your rotors at a low temperature. I find that the stock pads SUCK for aggressive driving. I like the Hawk HPS pads. Make sure you break them in properly if you get them. It's a compromise though. You might get slightly more noise (maybe a tiny squeak) and can actually hear the pads against the rotor when they're cold and you're rolling slowly.... but it's worth it IMHO. Much better pad. Better bite. No fade. Second, and a lot of people mess this part up... if you are driving aggressively, do not come to a full and complete stop after you have braked hard, because your pad will imprint on the rotor. For me personally, when I have been driving hard and I know the brakes are hot and I really, really have to come to a complete stop, I slow down gently using the normal brakes and compression braking via downshifting, and when I'm rolling slowly, I finish the braking using my hand brake. Ideally, you should never have to do that when your brakes are hot. You are supposed to take a cool down "lap" because as we all know, none of us drive aggressively on the street... we do it on a track!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 did you torque the wheel lugs with a torque wrench? some people experience rotor warped when the wheel is not evenly on 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Here is an article that spells it out rather well: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Oh now you've done it, passed along a link to the online bible... warped rotors all over the world are now conspiring to stop you and your free thinking ways. madness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuryakin Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Always, and in the proper star pattern. And given that I've seen runout FAR too many times, warping is for real. Now, I did see some runout on my rotors. First thing I did was pull the rotors, THOROUGHLY clean the rotor seat on the hub and the backside (there was rust), and again, cleaned the discs with a Scotchbrite pad with a drill on a lathe. Haven't driven it yet, will update when I check it. Still don't buy that deposits are the problem in this particular case. And of ALL the cars I've ever owned, this one is, BY FAR, the worst for this. did you torque the wheel lugs with a torque wrench? some people experience rotor warped when the wheel is not evenly on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Uneven pad deposits show up as runout according to that article. Ever consider that it's the worst on this car for you because the stock pads are the suckiest but you drive it pretty hard regardless? Did you bother reading the article? Cleaning your rotor with a scotchbrite pad isn't going to do anything at all for the braking surfaces in terms of the transfer layer. Get better pads and use your brakes properly like what I said above regarding not coming to complete stops after hard use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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