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Cobb vs Rom Raider (Open Source tuning)


thorne

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There is a place and market for Cobbs maps.

 

IMO Cobb makes good maps, that may not make the most power, but will give everyone a good solid increase.

 

You have to remember tuning for the masses, is alot different than tuning for your individual car. Each platform has it's advantages.

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To follow up on this, maybe you (LBGT) could post a list of suggested upgrades/changes to/improvements on Cobb's maps as we know them. These might be classed as to level of upgrade, etc. Then those of us who want to delve into Romraider/openecu would have a more comprehensive choice for our specific application.

 

Personally, even though I now have enough experience to be comfortable with ST, trying to mine data from the growing mountain of posts on Romraider, and others, that I need/want in my own car is daunting. Having a short list from someone I trust would help immensely.

 

I'm not talking about actual tuning, per se. That is up to the individual and is part of their "rite of passage." :) What I mean is the esoteric nuggets people have unearthed that are basic to EVERY tune.... MAF limitations come to mind, as well as the aforementioned Lean Limit. Things everyone should consider.

 

Obviously, this would be oriented toward what is now possible for most, a synergism between Romraider/openecu and ST, a version of which is now free. Unclemat's quoted post points the way.

 

I have been bugging a few guys at COBB for well over a year to start including a couple extra parameters in there software.

 

Still has never happened. These things alone would likely stop me from buying an AP#2 for the 09 STI (if I bought one).

 

I may start a thread at some point, I just find it so time consuming. I have over the phone and in person helped at least 4 or 5 people see what tables they may need to look at. Like per cylinder timing compensation. You could like rao said leave it stock, and of course you run the risk of blowing #2 cylinder, just like a ton of other people. That is the one table that absolutely blows my mind why Subaru put there.

 

Let's see, #2 flows the best, therefore runs the leanest, so let's give it the most timing at high rpms! This will gaurantee that #2 cylinder is completely toast if run too aggressively, but the other 3 will be perfect!:spin:

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Have you installed a det can or a secondary knock sensor attached to a speaker or headphone? Try moving that knock sensor to different locations. The location of the knock sensor matters.

 

Yes, and I know.

 

Just adding in what I think tuners should know about OS stuff vs COBB stuff.

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  • 2 months later...

To get this thread back to topic,

 

thorne and mickeyd2005, I've been reading a lot about RR, have flashed your stage 2 base map, and I'm blown away by how much help you guys and the RR team have given to everyone who's getting started and trying to learn. I'm definitely going to need your help too in the future, and I would like to offer a huge thank you for your commitment to this.

 

Starter question: do I need a knock sensor? Thanks!

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Point #2: When comparing Cobb AP vs. OS, hardware is an important factor. If you don't already have a laptop the Cobb option is considerably more attractive vs. buying a laptop, buying a Tactrix, and taking a chance. Cobb is definitely good stuff, it has it's place, and they are a good company.

 

This may have been true at one point, but I believe even if you don't have a laptop, you can get a brand new netbook for $300 and a cable for $160. If you add another $150 for a pro-tune, you're still under the cost of a cobb ap and you have a new netbook and a better tune than the OTS cobb map.

 

Further, a new netbook is a complete overkill for flashing and logging. You could just as easily spend $100 or less on an older laptop. Anything from a P3 and up should work great and a P3 can be had for very cheap.

 

That said, OS tuning still requires a lot more work. While you should be logging with use of a cobb ap, it's less mandatory and allows you to flash and go. Cobb definitely has a place in the plug and play and forget it world.

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To get this thread back to topic,

 

thorne and mickeyd2005, I've been reading a lot about RR, have flashed your stage 2 base map, and I'm blown away by how much help you guys and the RR team have given to everyone who's getting started and trying to learn. I'm definitely going to need your help too in the future, and I would like to offer a huge thank you for your commitment to this.

 

Starter question: do I need a knock sensor? Thanks!

 

I would sure recommend you to have a knock sensor.

 

Unless you are 100% sure that your setup won't cause knocking.

 

See the knock sensor as an insurance against unnecessary damage.

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Our cars (USDM) come with knock sensor that hears and reacts to knock pretty well IMO. It is completetly loggable and assuming your knock sensor is working fine, I do not think you need to add another one (although it is always better to have more!)

 

Your money will be much better spent on an Wideband O2 sensor..

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I'm showing constant knock (8*) all through the rpm range with any amount of throttle. I'll post up logs in a bit (using Smitty's Stg 2 map, going to flash back to Thorne's and try that), but I figure something's loose. Frustrating.

 

Any way generally to tell if it's noise versus real knock?

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I'm showing constant knock (8*) all through the rpm range with any amount of throttle. I'll post up logs in a bit (using Smitty's Stg 2 map, going to flash back to Thorne's and try that), but I figure something's loose. Frustrating.

 

Any way generally to tell if it's noise versus real knock?

 

Post up a log, to me it sounds like you are reading something wrong.

 

FWIW I think it is pretty rare (though often suspected) that there is something loose causing the knock sensor to go off.

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I'm showing constant knock (8*) all through the rpm range with any amount of throttle. I'll post up logs in a bit (using Smitty's Stg 2 map, going to flash back to Thorne's and try that), but I figure something's loose. Frustrating.

 

Any way generally to tell if it's noise versus real knock?

 

Yes I'm sorry, it was KC. Learning curve. Taking it in as fast as possible. Thanks guys!

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I have been having lots of issues trying to datalog with the AP cable, but then I found that Cobb's new firmware adds the ability to datalog directly to the AP. You can pick the variables to log, store up to 10 logs on the AP, and download them to a computer. You can even log "locked" protunes. That, along with the AccessTuner Race to make my own stuff, and all of the Cobb support and testing to back up the product, it's hard to argue against it, even considering the price.
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I have been having lots of issues trying to datalog with the AP cable, but then I found that Cobb's new firmware adds the ability to datalog directly to the AP. You can pick the variables to log, store up to 10 logs on the AP, and download them to a computer. You can even log "locked" protunes. That, along with the AccessTuner Race to make my own stuff, and all of the Cobb support and testing to back up the product, it's hard to argue against it, even considering the price.

Until you have actually tried the opensource stuff. ;)

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Thank god for this thread!!! I've used EcuFlash to bounce back and forth between 91 octane and 100 octane maps on my Evo for years. I've never custom tuned the car (I let my tuner do that on the dyno) but I've adjusted the ROM file to allow for different software mods the tuning community has developed...rear o2 sensor, p300 misfire, etc. As I'm sure people already know, the more mods you have (catless, aftermarket cams, etc) the more likely the stock ECU will throw a code. I've been amazed at what the Evo tuning community has discovered about the ECU.

 

That being said, I love my tuner but their contract with Cobb prevents them from tuning Subarus with EcuFlash. Then again my Legacy GT is a daily driver so I'm not looking for the kind of tune I'd generally be after with the Evo. My plan is to install some Prodrive cans and then tune with EcuFlash for a little more power. Are there OTS maps already out there for a 91 craptane LGT with aftermarket cans?

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That being said, I love my tuner but their contract with Cobb prevents them from tuning Subarus with EcuFlash.

 

I know that this was the case, but I know for sure several Cobb 'certified' Protuners are also using OpenSource & Cobb. So something must have changed with their contracts.

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