Pgh: 30k service

[loak]

subaru calls for

MAINTENANCE DETAILS

Vehicle: 2006 LEGACY 2.5GT LTD SPEC B

Interval: 30000 miles / 30 month service

Action Description Recommended Inspection Fuel systems, lines and connections

Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]

Inspect Camshaft drive belt

Replace Engine oil

Replace Engine oil filter

Perform Replace engine coolant and inspect cooling system, hoses and connections

Replace Air cleaner element

Inspect Transmission/Differential (Front & Rear) lubricants (Gear oil)

Inspect Automatic transmission fluid

Replace Brake fluid

Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions

Inspect Brake linings and drums Perform

Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system

Inspect Clutch operation

Inspect Steering and suspension

Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires

Trying to price out going to a dealership versus DIY.

Anyone happen to have an itemized 30k maintenance bill from a dealership?

 

I'm considering having a dealership

1) change oil + filter (got a freebie coupon)

 

2) replace coolant http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90389

I figure I'll let them check the cooling system at the same time

 

and check

1) Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]

2) Inspect Camshaft drive belt

3) Inspect cooling system, hoses and connections

4) Inspect Fuel systems, lines and connections

5) Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions

6) Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system

7) Inspect Clutch operation

 

 

 

If someone could offer up some garage space, tools and help, I'd like to tackle these myself

1) change front + rear diff fluids http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94834

doesn't look too hard, anyone already done this?

anyone have a T70 Torx bit?

 

2) change brake fluid

again, I don't think this will be too hard, but has anyone done this?

I'm thinking having a power bleeder would make this a bit easier

how much fluid is needed?

if I end up w/ some extra fluid, might flush the clutch as well http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63261

EDIT: looks like 1L is the way to go if I want a little bit of a safety margin http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65312

 

3) rotate tires

duh

 

4) replace air filter

duh

 

 

Am I missing anything obvious?

Any locals available to help?

[hybridandy]

I just did mine recently (at 60k miles, oops). I've still got some more to do but I did get the tranny fluid / front diff changed. I've still got to do the rear diff, coolant and the spark plugs yet.

 

I'm about an hour south of Pittsburgh if your up for a drive. I have a 2 car garage but 1 and 1/2 Nissans currently fill it. I just do all my work in the driveway.

 

I found a T70 bit at Autozone and it worked for me. I just did my brake fluid the old fashioned way (1 guy inside pumping, the other outside with a wrench a bottle). If you need some space to work, your welcome to come down.

[psucaptainkickass]

Do the 30k yourself...seriously...at 30k you shouldn't be having any major problems...

I actually didn't even do the brakes...I know bad...but I am at 52k no problems, and I will bleed them at 60k for sure.

 

The tranny fluid and coolant that I took out, looked like the fluid I put it...so it didn't look bad at all.

 

State inspection will check your brake pads for you.

 

The whole thing is really easy...take an afternoon and do it. For the rear diff the only trick I can mention is get a Diff Gun or something from Autozone (basically a giant syringe). Attach a length of hose and just push the fluid in. The diff has a bunch of stuff in the way of it so it is difficult to pour a bottle in there.

[jonklein611]

This sounds prime for a do it yourselfer. Not sure where you are in pgh, but the Mr. Tire chains (used to be Pro Care), tend to have good people. Until a little while my local one had an ex Subaru mechanic that would work out all my problems.

[loak]

Lack of time and space are the reasons why I'm thinking of having some of the 30k work done at a dealership.

 

Called around a few places this afternoon, looks like "30k service" (including extra items like PCV valve, inspecting battery/charging system, alignment, etc.) is ~$450-$500.

 

services À la carte as noted in the first post:

1) change oil + filter

2) replace coolant

 

and check

1) Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]

2) Inspect Camshaft drive belt

3) Inspect cooling system, hoses and connections

4) Inspect Fuel systems, lines and connections

5) Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions

6) Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system

7) Inspect Clutch operation

oil change - $30

coolant flush - $90

inspections as listed - $60

 

total 1 = $180

 

 

1) change front + rear diff fluids

2) change brake fluid

3) rotate tires

4) replace air filter

front+rear diff drain and fill - $120

brake fluid flush - $30

rotate tires - $50

air filter - $30

 

total 2 = $230

 

 

$40 = 4 x Red Line 75W90NS (1 quart)

$10 = 1 x Red Line 75W90 (1 quart)

$30 = 2 x Motul RBF600 (500 ml)

$15 = 1 x air filter

$15? = T70 Torx bit

$55 = Motive power bleeder

$30 = assorted S/H + tax

parts total = $195?

 

 

I just did mine recently (at 60k miles, oops). I've still got some more to do but I did get the tranny fluid / front diff changed. I've still got to do the rear diff, coolant and the spark plugs yet.

 

I'm about an hour south of Pittsburgh if your up for a drive. I have a 2 car garage but 1 and 1/2 Nissans currently fill it. I just do all my work in the driveway.

 

I found a T70 bit at Autozone and it worked for me. I just did my brake fluid the old fashioned way (1 guy inside pumping, the other outside with a wrench a bottle). If you need some space to work, your welcome to come down.

Thanks for the offer, I'll definitely keep that in mind.

[puzzled]

For the rear diff the only trick I can mention is get a Diff Gun or something from Autozone (basically a giant syringe). Attach a length of hose and just push the fluid in. The diff has a bunch of stuff in the way of it so it is difficult to pour a bottle in there.

 

Here is an easier way, that i saw mccorry do, and have been using it since. Get a 1 quart glass jar, with the metal lid (plastic might work too), some hose fittings, some hose, and an air valve. Put it all together, set the air compressor psi to about ~5-10lbs, and let physics' do the work. See the pic to get a better idea. Air goes in the little fitting, pushes the fluid out the hose that is at the bottom of the jar.

 

http://www.puzzleddesigns.com/pics/diffjar.jpg

 

This also works great for the front diff, don't even need to move the intercooler.

[puzzled]

Jon I already sent you a PM, but figured I would put some of the info in here as well.

 

Coolant - Removing one plug will drain the entire system. Get a gallon jug from the dealership, it is concentrated and just needs water added to it. Also get the coolant additive (Just a few bucks). As for the water, some people use distilled and some use regular tap. I used RO/DI water, only because i have a filter that makes it for my fish tank.

 

Brake Fluid - Changing with two people is really easy. Order: Front Passenger, Rear Driver, Front Driver, and Rear Passenger.

 

Front Diff - T70 (I have one), clean the magnetic plug, and refill with your gear oil.

Rear Diff - 1/2in. drive extension to open the plugs. Remove the top first, because it would suck if you drain it and then find out you can't get the top one off.

 

Air Filter - Simple swap. Do you run a cabin air filter as well?

 

Tire rotation - No problem, they come off for the brakes anyways.

[psucaptainkickass]

Yes but I need a glass jar, fittings, air valve, the know how to put it together...

I have the gun ... it works quite well.

 

Here is an easier way, that i saw mccorry do, and have been using it since. Get a 1 quart glass jar, with the metal lid (plastic might work too), some hose fittings, some hose, and an air valve. Put it all together, set the air compressor psi to about ~5-10lbs, and let physics' do the work. See the pic to get a better idea. Air goes in the little fitting, pushes the fluid out the hose that is at the bottom of the jar.

 

http://www.puzzleddesigns.com/pics/diffjar.jpg

 

This also works great for the front diff, don't even need to move the intercooler.

[puzzled]

Yes but I need a glass jar, fittings, air valve, the know how to put it together...

I have the gun ... it works quite well.

 

 

Good point... kinda skimmed over the gun part. Got a link to it? I was thinking the long hose and funnel above the bummer.

[psucaptainkickass]

Here is an example...mine isn't a snap-on, and mine didn't cost 33 bucks

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=53621&group_ID=1544&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[loak]

Coolant - Removing one plug will drain the entire system. Get a gallon jug from the dealership, it is concentrated and just needs water added to it. Also get the coolant additive (Just a few bucks). As for the water, some people use distilled and some use regular tap. I used RO/DI water, only because i have a filter that makes it for my fish tank.

I realize a drain+fill of the coolant shouldn't be too hard, but I figured I'd throw the dealership a bone as an incentive to inspect the various items on the list I posted earlier. That plus I didn't really want to deal w/ burping the system.

 

Brake Fluid - Changing with two people is really easy. Order: Front Passenger, Rear Driver, Front Driver, and Rear Passenger.

I was considering a power bleeder because it'd mean not needing to have a person in the car pumping while the car was on jack stands and it'd make it less likely that the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir accidentally runs dry.

 

Front Diff - T70 (I have one), clean the magnetic plug, and refill with your gear oil.

Rear Diff - 1/2in. drive extension to open the plugs. Remove the top first, because it would suck if you drain it and then find out you can't get the top one off.

Yeah, I was looking over the walkthrough, and this looks really easy.

 

Air Filter - Simple swap. Do you run a cabin air filter as well?

 

Tire rotation - No problem, they come off for the brakes anyways.

I swapped my cabin filter at the beginning of summer so I'll only need to spend a minute or two to throw in a new air filter in the intake.

These two items are no-brainers that I listed just for the sake of completeness.

[loak]

Here is an example...mine isn't a snap-on, and mine didn't cost 33 bucks

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=53621&group_ID=1544&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

 

$30 for a glorified turkey baster??

[psucaptainkickass]

I know right...I got one for like 7-8 bucks..pretty handy

[hybridandy]

Here is an example...mine isn't a snap-on, and mine didn't cost 33 bucks

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=53621&group_ID=1544&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

Autozone has a simliar one for less then $20. I actually bought a hand pump from them to do the fluids. It looks like a little bicycle pump with a tube on either end. One goes into the fluid, the other where you want the fluid to go and then pump. The Extra-S gear oil I bought came a in 5 Gallon bucket so I can't use a funnel without making a huge mess (although I did anyway). I haven't tired to do the rear diff with it yet, but theoretically, it should work.

 

Let me know if your interested. I'm going to Baltimore this weekend but I'm usually around.

[psucaptainkickass]

Diff Gun or something from Autozone (basically a giant syringe).

I know.

[puzzled]

The Extra-S gear oil I bought came a in 5 Gallon bucket so I can't use a funnel without making a huge mess (although I did anyway). I haven't tired to do the rear diff with it yet, but theoretically, it should work.

 

I got the same 5 gallon bucket of Extra-S. I have been using it in the rear diff with no problems.