spec b 1/4 mile numbers not good?

[edkwon]

Wheres Vimy?

 

Sold his car and moved out of the country i hope.

[05GT Guru]

Sold his car and moved out of the country i hope.

 

Didnt he run mid to high 12s bone stock down to the air filter and tires?

 

He also launched at 9400rpms so thats why i guess

[dmp]

Didnt he run mid to high 12s bone stock down to the air filter and tires?

 

He also launched at 9400rpms so thats why i guess

 

 

No. He ran mid to high 12s towing a non-spec.B LGT down the strip, and using a Baby's diaper as an air filter....on for OEM "donut" spare tires/wheels.

[05GT Guru]

Oh snap, when i get home im taking a diaper from the changing table and getting 100whp, nice.

[dmp]

dude? You don't have a spec.B. Won't work.

 

 

sorry.

[JoeFromPA]

Do you really need to abuse your drivetrain to feel good about the power you are making? Why not just enjoy the everday drivability improvements?

 

Maybe I'm one of the few on this forum who, when I modify my LGT, my goal will be to increase the driveability, move the powerband down as much as possible, and just make it a smoother, more powerful beast.

 

Not get my 0-60 time down to sub 5 seconds.

 

I've always felt launches are just a cheating way to get a great 0-60 time....a 5-60 time is a far superior way to measure real-world accelerative abilities of your vehicle.

 

Joe

[05GT Guru]

Lol, launches are cheating at 0-60 thats the worng thing to say because 0-60 is all about the launch.. I agree that most real world racing has to do with roll racing, but if thats what your after you should moddify a fwd or RWD car you will get better results.

[lawl]

a 5-60 time is a far superior way to measure real-world accelerative abilities of your vehicle.

Joe

 

running from a roll is not awd's (acceleration) forte though. if we're interested in 5-60 we bought the wrong car. like buying an xB for construction work

[lawl]

Lol, launches are cheating at 0-60 thats the worng thing to say because 0-60 is all about the launch.. I agree that most real world racing has to do with roll racing, but if thats what your after you should moddify a fwd or RWD car you will get better results.

 

if the other guy launches, and you launch, and you win, i'll take that

[05GT Guru]

Imagine if they had a night at the drag track where you cant launch you have to just start like normal then floor the piss out of it. They could call it the night of horrbile times.

[JoeFromPA]

I agree that AWD's strength is in it's ability to launch well with even crappy tires.

 

However, a RWD car with slicks can get a really good 0-60 with an higher-rpm launch....doesn't mean it's any faster in real-world 5-60 driving. That's why I'm saying 0-60 & abusive launches are just a bleh way to get an accelerative figure.

 

I like the AWD in the Subaru for it's balance and all weather abiity. I don't like it for it's weight, relative roughness, and greater propensity to take out stress on the drivetrain instead of a spinning tire.

 

But hey, that's just me

 

Joe

[JoeFromPA]

05GT Guru - You mean the night of more accurate times?

 

If you want to measure whether or not a car is faster, or tuned better, it is more accurate and consistent to "floor the piss out of it" instead of launching, since launching is more about driver technique & the driver's ability to reproduce that technique than it is about how fast the car accelerates.

 

Joe

 

P.s. To give an example. If you take a 08 LGT Stage 0 to a track, launch it, and get a 14.5 and then load a Stage 1 map and get a 14.4.....well, was your launch better, shifting, or is the car actually faster? You can more accurately assess the acceleration of the car by removing one of the variables....the launch.

[05GT Guru]

Right i understand what you are saying. But to tell how fast a car is 99% of people measure that starting at 0mph not 5 lol. Yes starting at 0 shows more driver skill which to me is the best part about racing. If your just trying to see how much power you are making then run it on a dyno and see, but why do people want more power? To be faster and to be faster sometimes requires the driver mod. Noone cares that your is making 600whp if you can only run 13s. I have auite a few friends who have 500+rwhp cars but didnt have the money the first time they ran them for new drag radials or suspension/traction parts or skill and went in the 12s or low 13s or even 14s with trap speeds of over 120mph. All those things, parts and driver skill are what make the world of straight line racing unique and different evertime you see cars run, even the same two cars over and over again, its never gonna be the same race if you go from a dig unless there both automatic but other things can still happen at the line, from a roll all you have to do is shift.

 

And the reason i said rwd and fwd is better for roll races is because it is, if the lgt came in RWD and you did a 40mph roll against a AWD drive lgt same hp and drivers the RWD version would win because it gets alot more power to the ground. Thats all i was saying with the better results comment.

[HAMMER DOWN]

From what I remember about selling tires back in the day, 235-45-17 will be wider and taller than your current 215-45-17. Im 99% sure, but you +1/-1 to find the right rolling radius. The 2nd number is an aspect ratio of height to width. So a 215 is the width of the tread. The 45 is in ratio to that width. Increase the width and keep the ratio the same and the tire gets taller. Sidewalls get bigger the distance between the rim and the tread. IIRC using that formula these would be compatible sizes in terms or rolling radius:

 

185/60 r17 <- -3

195/55 r17 <- -2

205/50 r17 <- -1

------------

215/45 r17 <- stock

------------

225/40 r17 <- +1

235/35 r17 <- +2

245/30 r17 <- +3

 

Try it. Go to a tire shop and have them put a 215/45 r17 side by side next to a 235/45 r17. You'll see the r17 is about an inch taller. This would throw off your spedometer and odometer, as well as any other system that relies on your axle rotations, since the axle has to spin slower for a larger tire, your speed will be faster than what you see on the spedometer, and likewise, your mileage will go up slower. A tire too small makes your spedometer read faster than what you are doing, and the mileage goes up quicker.

 

Also, because you have an all wheel drive, all the tires have to be the same rolling radius or you'll blow the transmission.

 

When I did my STi 6MT swap. The 05GT's picks up the reading from the front wheel sencers. Not the transaxle. I went from 4.11 to 3.90 final drive & my spedometer is still with in 2mph (slower) of those mph signs that tell you how fast your going. The 235-45-17, over all a 25.4" tire sounds right. It's only .40" taller then stock tire ran on the 05 STi (225-45-17 (25"). That my tranaxle came from. So right now running the GT"s 215-45-17, 24.6" I'm under driving my drivetrain. My sedometer if off sould'nt be to bad.

 

Mike

[AKLGT]

I have to shift in to 5th for 14 mile run. mybe it's that I'm still running GT's size tires. 215-45-17. I think the stock tire size for 05 STi is 225-45-17. When my tires wear out, I'm thinking of going the 235-45-17.

 

Mike

all 6MT STI's had to shift into 5th gear for the 1/4 until 07.

[AKLGT]

Right i understand what you are saying. But to tell how fast a car is 99% of people measure that starting at 0mph not 5 lol. Yes starting at 0 shows more driver skill which to me is the best part about racing. If your just trying to see how much power you are making then run it on a dyno and see, but why do people want more power? To be faster and to be faster sometimes requires the driver mod. Noone cares that your is making 600whp if you can only run 13s. I have auite a few friends who have 500+rwhp cars but didnt have the money the first tiem they ran them for new drag radials or suspension/traction partss and went in the 12s or low 13s or even 14s with trap speeds of over 120mph.

 

And the reason i said rwd and fwd is better for roll races is because it is, if the lgt came in RWD and you did a 40mph roll against a AWD drive lgt same hp and drivers the RWD version would win because it gets alot more power to the ground. Thats all i was saying with the better results comment.

but we don't have an AWD dyno here. So it's track times.

 

And what I've been told is this:

 

ET = Driver skill

MPH/Trap = Power

 

That is why you can have a high trap speed, but not so fast ET or a low ET and not so high trap. It's tough to have both at the same time. Since I usually run for ET, my traps tend to be low.

[AKLGT]

its' your launch, even car magazine testers admit they're pretty abusive to MTs when they test 0-60 and 0-100 times for the sports cars they review, if you want good numbers you can't be a pussy about doing the launch, and if you don't want to abuse your tranny/clutch, then don't take it to the dragstrip.

+1

 

Some of us bought our cars to enjoy them, not just drive from point A to point B. If that were the case, I'd have bought a Prius.

[Soda Popinski]

When I did my STi 6MT swap. The 05GT's picks up the reading from the front wheel sencers. Not the transaxle. I went from 4.11 to 3.90 final drive & my spedometer is still with in 2mph (slower) of those mph signs that tell you how fast your going. The 235-45-17, over all a 25.4" tire sounds right. It's only .40" taller then stock tire ran on the 05 STi (225-45-17 (25"). That my tranaxle came from. So right now running the GT"s 215-45-17, 24.6" I'm under driving my drivetrain. My sedometer if off sould'nt be to bad.

 

Mike

 

Just make sure that ALL 4 tires on the car are the same rolling radius. You could put truck tires on it if you want. But all 4 have to be the same size or you'll burn it out because 2 will be trying to spin faster than the other 2.

 

I made the mistake a long time ago with an 4wd camry when I sold them the 2 bigger rear tires that he wanted and swore would work. They were a larger rolling radius so in a week when his transmission blew up, he sued the tire store. I was held accountable and ended up getting written up and my bonus withheld because of it.

[05GT Guru]

but we don't have an AWD dyno here. So it's track times.

 

And what I've been told is this:

 

ET = Driver skill

MPH/Trap = Power

 

That is why you can have a high trap speed, but not so fast ET or a low ET and not so high trap. It's tough to have both at the same time. Since I usually run for ET, my traps tend to be low.

 

Yes i understand this, i have been to the track lots of times, i ran my supra over 100 times and my T/A about 10, bike twice and numerous other cars. And thats what i was saying with my friends who ran low 13s but trapped 120mph, they needed more traction parts and some more skill, they had the hp but lacked other things. If everyone just did roll races every race would be the same, unless you miss shift and i havent missed a shift in my stick cars in ohh over a year when racing that is.

 

You wont be able to figure out your horsepower by your trap tiem or ET. Noone uses trap time to guess there hp. It might be able to give you a close number but you wont really know. Then you will sound like your average ricer when someone goes what power do you make, you say about 240awhp they say did you have it dynoed, no thats just a guess.

[UnXpectedError]

Well I can tell you mine shifts at the folowing at redline:

1st 55km/h (34mph)

2nd 88km/h (55mph)

3rd 128km/h (80mph)

4th 170km/h (106mph)

5th unknown

6th unknown

 

The spec b max shifting speeds are:

 

1st - 33 mph

2nd - 51 mph

3rd - 69 mph

4th - 90 mph

5th - 125mph

 

Seems you would definitely need to hit 5th for the 1/4 mile in this car unless you really mess up.

 

These don't seem to be "short ass" gears either as mentioned above. The 5spd max shift points are:

 

1st - 32 mph

2nd - 54 mph

3rd - 80 mph

4th - not listed

[dmp]

but why do people want more power? To be faster and to be faster sometimes requires the driver mod.

 

Most often because they don't want to get better. It's like young pitchers in baseball - when they can't control the ball, they just throw it harder.

 

It's been said in miata Circles, "If you can't drive fast with 90hp, having 900hp won't help you!"

 

 

Now - one "Not bad" result of slower e/ts but faster traps…when you're driving down the freeway with 14.5 shoe-polished on your 1993 Ford Probe GT, and you come upon a C5 and hang with him. His "WTF" look is priceless.

[05GT Guru]

Well that depends, if you are in control of the 90hp car but your not goin fast simply because its 90hp then upping the hp is just what you need lol

[rtbrjason]

Well I can tell you mine shifts at the folowing at redline:

1st 55km/h (34mph)

2nd 88km/h (55mph)

3rd 128km/h (80mph)

4th 170km/h (106mph)

5th unknown

6th unknown

 

That's just not consistent with what the manual says. Though the manual does not make it clear if this is at the redline or not, just that they are the "max speeds".

 

I will test these numbers in my own spec b and see what it does. I expect it will be close to these numbers listed.

[05GT Guru]

Well he does have an ap, did the ap raise your redline at all?

[dmp]

Well that depends, if you are in control of the 90hp car but your not goin fast simply because its 90hp then upping the hp is just what you need lol

 

 

I suppose I take the same point of view with my camera stuff as my car - I don't upgrade until the equipment is the limiting factor, NOT the operation of same.