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Plan B - Stock Speaker Upgrade


CapnJack

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If anyone remembers, I was working on a system install in my 07 LGT. However, several expenses have come up and I'll be selling most of my stuff and resorting to plan B.

 

Plan B entails upgrading the stock speakers and dealing with what I've got for power in the head unit. To be honest, the SRS WOW system in the 07 LGT doesn't sound too bad, so I'm not overly disappointed with this route.

 

What I'm looking to do is replace all four door speakers with something aftermarket to upgrade the factory paper speakers. I was planning on disconnecting the tweeters in the doors and running a co-axial speaker. Will disconnecting the tweeters mess up the SRS WOW system and make it sound crappy with co-axials?

Can anyone recommend a good co-axial speaker that will play nicely with the factory deck? I KNOW RUNNING AN AMP WILL GIVE ME BETTER SOUND, BUT THAT IS NOT AN OPTION.

 

Right now I'm thinking of Alpine SPS-600 series, Infinity Reference 6012si, or JL VR650-CXi. I've got a $300 credit at onlinecarstereo.com so it would have to be something from their site.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks!

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CapnJack

 

I did that before I did a full system. The stock radio has enough power (believe it or not) for almost any speakers.

 

Granted, the stock radio can't go that loud before getting problematic, but in volume, you can't go very lout with the stock radio anyway.

 

I have a set of Boston Z6's I'm selling (ready to install, mounts an everything) that I ran of the stock radio, with decent results.

 

Otherwise, standard speaker rules apply, get the best speaker you can. Also, I experimented with Coax mount, and the Legacy isn't ideal with a co axially mounted tweeter. You may want to consider component mounting a tweeter ins the stock location.

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If anyone remembers, I was working on a system install in my 07 LGT. However, several expenses have come up and I'll be selling most of my stuff and resorting to plan B.

 

Plan B entails upgrading the stock speakers and dealing with what I've got for power in the head unit. To be honest, the SRS WOW system in the 07 LGT doesn't sound too bad, so I'm not overly disappointed with this route.

 

What I'm looking to do is replace all four door speakers with something aftermarket to upgrade the factory paper speakers. I was planning on disconnecting the tweeters in the doors and running a co-axial speaker. Will disconnecting the tweeters mess up the SRS WOW system and make it sound crappy with co-axials?

Can anyone recommend a good co-axial speaker that will play nicely with the factory deck? I KNOW RUNNING AN AMP WILL GIVE ME BETTER SOUND, BUT THAT IS NOT AN OPTION.

 

Right now I'm thinking of Alpine SPS-600 series, Infinity Reference 6012si, or JL VR650-CXi. I've got a $300 credit at onlinecarstereo.com so it would have to be something from their site.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks!

Not sure about the SRS, as I have an 05.

 

I have an un-amped setup (except for my sub, which is a different story) with Polk DB650s in all 4 doors, and it sounds MUCH better over stock. Not as good as an amped setup, but the quality difference is very significant. I also put dynamat in all four doors. I ran into the same problems as you, so I went this route.

Go Cardinals!

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Tough to justify the adding of aftermarket speakers without juicing them up. I don't think you'll get the true bennefits. I did the stock speaker upgrade at fist and I was fiending to add more power ASAP.

 

As mentioned, if you are going to go this route, dampen the doors and seal them up with acoustic foam. This will help offset the high sensitivity in the stock speakers.

 

Also, the coax setup in the front doors will lower your soundstage down and towards the speaker. I found this to be annoying. so I added the CDT upstage kit to raise the soundstage. SRS WOW will help, but only you will know if you can live with this.

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Not sure about the SRS, as I have an 05.

 

I have an un-amped setup (except for my sub, which is a different story) with Polk DB650s in all 4 doors, and it sounds MUCH better over stock. Not as good as an amped setup, but the quality difference is very significant. I also put dynamat in all four doors. I ran into the same problems as you, so I went this route.

 

Did you replace the separate tweeters in the stock location near the door

handles (at least that's how it is on my '06), and if so, with what ?

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Did you replace the separate tweeters in the stock location near the door

handles (at least that's how it is on my '06), and if so, with what ?

 

No, I did not. I removed the tweeters and just used the 2-way Polk DB650s in all 4 doors.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=107DB650&tp=95&tab=features_and_specs

 

I was able to get them on a nice sale on crutchfield for like $50-60 per pair. They are discontinued now, but you may be able to find them somewhere. I'm not sure what the differences are with the 651s.

 

Its not as good as amped sound, but the simple speaker upgrade made a BIG difference. Other legacy owners on this board have used these speakers with great results as well. I would recommend installing dynamat with them as well. There was a slight volume reduction over the stockers, but the sound still gets plenty loud. Too loud to stand at anything over 21 or so.

Go Cardinals!

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Thanks for the input guys! I ordered the Infinity Reference 6022i speakers for all the doors and enough Dynamat Extreme to do all the doors. It should help out big time!

 

Looks like these are coaxial - tweeter built right into the speaker.

Do you intend to disconnect the separate tweeters (assuming you

have them) that are mounted up by the door handles ?

 

I'm a little confused by what people think about separate tweeters

here. Most seem to like the coaxial main speakers. But it seems

to me, because of how poorly very high frequencies travel, that a

tweeter mounted much nearer to your ears (the location by the door

handle) makes a lotta sense.

 

I assume Crutchfield sells seprate tweeters for these locations ?

It is a mistake to ALSO install a speaker like the 6022i's in

conjunction with the separate tweeters ?

 

Thanks for clarifying this for me.

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Once you get these installed can you let us know how they sound? I'm thinking of picking these up as well but want to know how the bass and highs sound compared to the stock speakers running off just the headunit with no amp.
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I think it has to do more with the sound arriving at your ears in phase will make the sound better than having the tweeters up high.. :iam:

 

Hmm, back-of-the-envelope calculation says typical tweeter frequency,

let's say 5khz, has a wavelength of 2-3 inches. I guess the path to

my ear from the driver's-side speaker will be within that tolerance, but

what about the mismatch between the speaker 48" or more away on

the passenger's side ?

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  • 1 month later...

I finally got these installed last weekend and my initial impression is that I want the stock speakers back. I'm going to run them one more day, but at this point, I'm NOT happy about them at all. The stock speakers had MUCH better bass. These sound very poppy and distorted even at lower volumes compared to the stock setup. The stock amp seems to be struggling and it almost sounds like it's cutting volume to the different channels from time to time.

 

I did disconnect the stock tweaters and used the ones in the coaxials. It may be how I have them pointed, but the sound stage sounds like it's right inside my head. (very annoying)

 

The one positive I have to say about these is that the highs are very clear and crisp.

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CapnJack, amp didn't fix stuff in my case.

 

Sound deadening, and lots of it. That will help without an amp. Of most importance, make sure to fill the empty area just above your speaker in your door with closed cell foam or something similar. That will make an extremely large difference.

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Most of the above posters covered this very well.

 

1. Stock speakers tend to be more efficient than aftermarket speakers. It's easy to get bass out of a lightweight paper cone and small magnet. Adding an amplifier to good speakers makes a HUGE difference - particularly when it comes to mid-bass. On my last car the rear 6x9's (yuck I know) produced almost 0 bass when they were run off the HU, but when run through an amp sounded like small subwoofers.

 

2. If you didn't properly seal them in the door make sure you do. A poorly designed/sealed spacer ring will make bass go to 0.

 

Good luck!

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Well, I made some progress today. I adjusted the tweater direction, changed the tweater crossover and adjusted the levels in the head unit. The sound stage has moved to right on top of the dash. MUCH BETTER! I believe the tweaters were so focused on my head that when ever I turned my head, it made it seem like the speakers were dropping in and out. Bass is still lacking, but as was mentioned, it's probably the efficency of the speakers. I have an older 10" single sub and amp with line level inputs on it that I'm going to try out. (Alpine MRP-M350)When I put this in, I'll be leaving a way to connect a smaller four channel amp in the future if the funds allow.

 

The doors are Dynamatted and the speakers are sealed as well as I could get them. I didn't put any cc foam in the door however. I will try to add some of that to see what happens.

 

Thanks for all the input!

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new speakers take time to break-in and it will sound much better and smooth after, say some 25-50 hours of operations. try to use different CDs with different content to break-in effectively. my two cents.
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new speakers take time to break-in and it will sound much better and smooth after, say some 25-50 hours of operations. try to use different CDs with different content to break-in effectively. my two cents.

 

I think part of it is that it was a change to my ears too. I've been playing all sorts of music through them as well as some talk radio.

At first I was very upset, but now that they are adjusted properly, I can hear a good difference between them and stock.

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AS long as the tweeter is a question, is there a crossover somewhere in the front for those factory tweeters, or does it come from the radio as a separate speaker line? I ask because I want to replace the factory speakers with Polk 6501 components and it's easier with a dedicated speaker line not already using a crossover.

 

For the OP, let us know how it sounds and if the install was a pain in the a$$.

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From what I could see, the crossover is built into the tweeter on the stock system. Each door is fed with one pair from the head unit.

 

Install was alright. It took me about 6-8 hours total to remove all panels, remove the plastic film in the door, Dynamat everything, and install the speakers. I was very meticulous as well. I would recommend spacers for at least the front doors. Depending on how deep the Polks are, you may need spacers for the rear door as well. The stock front speakers tilt in the door to give clearance for the window to go up and down otherwise the window runs right into the magnet on any flush mounted speaker.

 

If you are replacing the factory tweeters with the components, plan on spending some time to fabricate a bracket of some sort.

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From what I could see, the crossover is built into the tweeter on the stock system. Each door is fed with one pair from the head unit.

 

Install was alright. It took me about 6-8 hours total to remove all panels, remove the plastic film in the door, Dynamat everything, and install the speakers. I was very meticulous as well. I would recommend spacers for at least the front doors. Depending on how deep the Polks are, you may need spacers for the rear door as well. The stock front speakers tilt in the door to give clearance for the window to go up and down otherwise the window runs right into the magnet on any flush mounted speaker.

 

If you are replacing the factory tweeters with the components, plan on spending some time to fabricate a bracket of some sort.

 

I ordered the 6501's for the front, and a set of 651 coax shallow mounts for the rear. I did a custom mount in my old car with a tweeter, so doing some work in the doors to make the tweeters fit is not a big deal. I'm more worried about getting the door apart and not breaking anything.

 

I'll advise if it went well.

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i think what i am going to do when i have some more money is probably some alpine type Rs with a 100X4 amp. think it is going to sound nice. biggest issue is going to be the spacer. these are very beefy speakers. the magnets are huge. i might look into the tweeter situation, but i think my tweeter in my o08 Spec B is high up on the door, and oddly shaped.
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  • 2 weeks later...

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