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IAC valve?


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Sup everyone. So I've had my car for about 2months now and the check engine light came on. The code that came back was p1507, in reference to the IAC valve. I havent noticed any difference while driving, or accelerating, etc, but i dont want it to get worse. the part itself is 399.99 :-\. Any other possibilities that could be causing this code to come up?? thanks in advance, brandon.

 

 

2002 Subaru Legacy GT Lmt

30,899 miles.

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If you're a member on NASIOC do a search on my SN and Idle Air Control. I've put a ton up over there on this item. It can be cleaned, just follow the progression.

Here's the link to the search I used. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/search.php?searchid=678976

 

More specifically: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4068617&postcount=10

SBT

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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thanks for the fast replies. I took my car by the dealer, and he suggested they do a fuelsystem cleaning, which he said was 150$ :-\. He also said I was due for the 30k service which is 850$ which seemed like alot of money for the things listed, however im not a mechanic by any stretch. I was just wondering if all the things on thier list are all necessary and which things if any i could do at home. Heres the list:

 

oil change and filter (done)

check transmission

transmission service

flush cooling system

replace fuel filter (if applicable)

replace air filter

replace pcv valve (if applicable)

inspect plug wires

brake fluid flush

rotate n balance tires

inspect front n rear breaks

inspect belts n hoses

check electrical

clean throttle bore

lube throttle linkages

fuel system flush

inspect steering n suspension

lube all grease fittings (if applicable_

multi point safety inspection

fluid levels

courtesy wash

replace spark plugs( if applicable)

 

thanks again, Brandon

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Heres the list:

 

I've bolded and "blued out" the things I always do at the 30K SI.

 

 

Necessary - especially if you can't do these yourself:

  • oil change and filter
  • transmission service (do NOT let them flush it, just drain and refill - be specific on this one)
  • flush cooling system (do NOT let them flush it, just drain and refill - be specific on this one too)
  • replace fuel filter (if applicable)
  • replace air filter
  • replace pcv valve (if applicable and warranted)
  • brake fluid flush
  • inspect steering n suspension
  • replace spark plugs( if applicable)

Total for this would be about $400 and should take about 4 hours tops.

 

 

Unnecessary unless you have evidence the car is running rough

  • inspect plug wires (rough engine only or CEL)
  • rotate n balance tires (no dealer should be allowed to do this)
  • clean throttle bore (rough engine only or CEL)
  • check transmission (If you don't the tranny fluid changes - not necessary)

Not necessary ever IMHO

  • fuel system flush

These items should be part of the complimentary 27-point inspection you get when you have your oil/filter serviced. It's clear they're tring to upsell you on these. Any tech worth their salt would do this any way.

  • inspect front n rear brakes
  • inspect belts n hoses
  • check electrical
  • lube throttle linkages
  • lube all grease fittings
  • multi point safety inspection
  • fluid levels

And this should be "complimentary" for having invested your month's savings in this dealership.

  • courtesy wash

BTW - That $150 Fuel Service - forget it unless you're really running rough and you don't have a vacuum leak someplace. Then it MIGHT be of some value. It's just two cans of SeaFoam (packaged as a Subaru fluid) that they pump into your intake. Total cost to them T&M, $35.00 ($25 labor and $10 materials) - it's a big ripoff.

 

HTH

SBT

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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^nah, it's just a pita clamp you wouldn't otherwise be able to reach with their 'specialty tool'; it often has to come off if you do an inlet. it's a little bastard, but you can get it off with other tools after just removing the tmic. now getting it back on...well, let's just say i have a different clamp on there now that works just fine.
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^nah, it's just a pita clamp you wouldn't otherwise be able to reach with their 'specialty tool'; it often has to come off if you do an inlet. it's a little bastard, but you can get it off with other tools after just removing the tmic. now getting it back on...well, let's just say i have a different clamp on there now that works just fine.

 

We're talking about 3rd Gen NA Legacy as I recall. No TMIC involved.

SBT

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 3 years later...

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