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Aim your sub forward!


Deer Killer

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I had mine rearward facing for the longest time, and I always had problems with it, even with an equalizer there would be giant nodes in the car. I suppose this is because the car is so tight. I never had this problem in my old car :p If you sit in the back seat you would get blasted by 100-125Hz, the only place it sounded good was to the driver and front passenger, and that's if you kept your head in the right place all the time. Well I finally got a ratcheting tie down so I could use the seat brackets to aim it forward from the center of the car.. Now it's a lot more even throughout the whole car. I suppose using a ratching tie down to get a few hundred lbs of pressure between the sub and the car probably helps too!

 

Downside: less total volume, because it's harder to find anti-nodes, but I was only running at 25% before anyway :)

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Ok, needed a little context there. I took a clas called 'The Physics of Sound' about 3 years ago. I swear I learned more in that class than any other class I ever took. Cause every other thing we learned,I could apply to my car the next day.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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  • 2 weeks later...
For those that have the sub under their driver's seat .. are the controls facing forward or rearward??? Mine is facing towards the front .. just curious if it is in wrong.

Mine is facing foward also, that's how it's suppose to be, kind of annoying from an adjustment standpoint.

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funny... mine's facing rearward and the sound's perfect, and I'm very picky with that sort of stuff - no nodes or anything that I've noticed. I guess maybe it doesn't sound that good in the back, I never thought to check, but then again I guess I only sit in one place and I matter most
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  • 2 weeks later...

Remember that the combination of the resonant frequency of the enclosure and that of the car and their interaction is key here. The average wavelength of sound in the sub-bass range below 120 cycles is 15-30 feet....or longer than your car, so they don't come into play.

 

The Cliff Note's version = mid-bass frequencies are shorter in wavelength and can cancel each other out or (worse) double the amplitude (volume) by loading the enclosure off the rear of the car. It will differ by car - the sedan might respond well to facing forward while the wagon might need to face rearward. Effective sub tuning generally takes two people and a hand-held SPL meter ($35 at Radio Shack). The goal is smooth frequency response at all positions in the car, unless you are going for SPL competitions (then, you tune for amplitude at the mic position).

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