-HEF- Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 thanks for the help. this thread helped me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 I have a Q.: about the panel door - where is the trick to take it of? I tried, poped up everything around even the red one hidden approx. under tweeter, one screw behind the handle and still nothing... I just don't want to brake any parts of the door panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helfrick Posted May 31, 2005 Author Share Posted May 31, 2005 This should cover it: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=53186&postcount=5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 This should cover it: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=53186&postcount=5 thanks, will try tommorow, today I just finished with resonator- cut it off:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_low78 Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 you say your using the stock Headunit, what type of LOC's (converters) are you using? i hear there are two type, basic ones and ones that actually take power and turn the signal to a 4volt output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_low78 Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Oh one more question! where did you tap your remote wire? in other words does your amp come on with all accessories or did you find somewhere to tap it so it goes on and off with the power of the radio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helfrick Posted June 9, 2005 Author Share Posted June 9, 2005 you say your using the stock Headunit, what type of LOC's (converters) are you using? i hear there are two type, basic ones and ones that actually take power and turn the signal to a 4volt output. Not sure about the difference. The one I bought was $10-20 at circuit city. Seems to work well. I've started to notice a small amount of alternator whine, but I think that may be from the cheap RCA cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helfrick Posted June 9, 2005 Author Share Posted June 9, 2005 Oh one more question! where did you tap your remote wire? in other words does your amp come on with all accessories or did you find somewhere to tap it so it goes on and off with the power of the radio. I used the diagram available here called something like "ravensblade's" wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_low78 Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 thanks for the info , I use to do install at circuit city back in highschool, the old converters we used had ground wires, try grounding them if possible to eliminate some of the noise. I'm in the process of installing 2 MTX blue Thunder amps, 2 sets of seperates, a cap and i was putting my alpine headunit in but decided to keep the factory radio because i like the 6 disc and i dont feel like blowing another 600 bones on a "newer" alpine headunit and an ipod that holds 1300 more songs then i would ever listen to in any given trip. I just finished building the amp rack so its time to start wiring and your info helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I would use the switched power wire as the one that is marked remote only turns on when the radio is on. I was going to use a navone LOC but I ended up getting a audiocontrol three.1 instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_low78 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 yeah that would make sense because the remote wire (in factory setup) is generally for power antenna, meaning once the radio option is on it sends power to the antenna to extend, then once the radio is off, it goes back down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helfrick Posted June 10, 2005 Author Share Posted June 10, 2005 thanks for the info , I use to do install at circuit city back in highschool, the old converters we used had ground wires, try grounding them if possible to eliminate some of the noise. I'm in the process of installing 2 MTX blue Thunder amps, 2 sets of seperates, a cap and i was putting my alpine headunit in but decided to keep the factory radio because i like the 6 disc and i dont feel like blowing another 600 bones on a "newer" alpine headunit and an ipod that holds 1300 more songs then i would ever listen to in any given trip. I just finished building the amp rack so its time to start wiring and your info helps. I tied in to the ground wire in the wiring harness for the loc. You don't mention subs. Would a cap do any good in that situation? An ipod may be overkill, but it is nice having an mp3 player. I have a 256MB player that makes things pretty convenient. I have it playing through a FM modulator along with my satellite radio. I am very interested in seeing the amp rack before and after you install it. The way mine is situated, it is starting to have overheating issues now that it is getting closer to summer. I may have to relocate it at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_low78 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Sub is an MTX Thunder 5500 10", i had a 12 but had to replace it due to space issues. I still need a functional trunk, and would like to get to the spare tire if ever needed without having to remove a box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I finished my amp rack but have to install some fans just incase it gets too hot in there. So far no overheating of my 2 black and grind Fosgate amps. Still have the spare tire and all my trunk space not including the subs. Please don't give me the TTIWWP treatment as I will post pics if someone requests. a. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 post em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erickson00 Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Did you not use special adapter rings for the woofers in the door panels? Crutchfield has a pair that I am thinking about buying. I am using the POlk DB6500 components, too, and also the Polk DB650 coaxials in the rear. So did you just drill directly into the door panel? I have never doen that - any tips? I was going to get spacer rings, too, so the speakers would be closer to the factory grills. Also, with the tweeters - you used a silicone glue to seal them into the stock housing? So the stock housing is bigger than the Polk tweeters? I am wondering if maybe I should mount the tweeters on the dash, instead of in the door panels. I'll have a Kicker 5 channel amp powering all four interior speakers with 70 watts each, with the fifth channel delivering 420 watts to a Kicker Solo-baric 12'' subwoofer in a sealed enclosure. I also have a capacitor. I want to try to install the speakers myself to save on the cost of an installer, but I don't want to screw it up. Do you have any additional tips for drilling and mounting? Thanks in advance for your help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted June 28, 2005 Share Posted June 28, 2005 I finished my amp rack but have to install some fans just incase it gets too hot in there. So far no overheating of my 2 black and grind Fosgate amps. Still have the spare tire and all my trunk space not including the subs. Please don't give me the TTIWWP treatment as I will post pics if someone requests. a. Have these amps been cutting out from heat? How are you going to vent them? And how did you run your power lines - in or out? Post those pics, por favor!! About that alternator whine you've got (whoever that was), try re-grounding the LOC & headunit where your amp is grounded. Ground loops cause 90% of alternator noise. Also check to see if the inputs can switch between "balanced" & "unbalanced," that sometimes helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted June 28, 2005 Share Posted June 28, 2005 Oh yeah, door speaker question - how much space exists between the poor panel & the frame for that X-over? Has it caused any problems for fit in that location? How bad was it running the wires between car & door? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helfrick Posted June 28, 2005 Author Share Posted June 28, 2005 Still waiting on those pics. Erickson00, Sorry I missed your question. I've been offline for a little while. The spacers wouldn't hurt. There really isn't much room to work with inside the door. Yup, directly into the door. The only advice I can offer is to use a good, sharp bit. I went with the stock location for the tweeters because I didn't want to run another line through the door. The mounting bracket is actually a bit smaller so I tried to angle them as best I could and seal them in place. As far as tips in general, like I said earlier use a sharp bit, and definately take your time. Boulderguy, That's a good tip on grounding them together, I'll probably try that if changing the RCA cables doesn't help. I don't recall seeing a "balanced" or "unbalanced" switch, I'll check. The crossover wasn't too bad to place. I did some back and forth trying to find the right spot, but it worked out well. I don't know exactly how much room is there. I was able to get the door panel back on, so I didn't worry about sfter that. The wire from the cabin to the door was a bear. I couldn't fish it through the rubber boot with the rest of the wiring, so I cut a small + in the rubber towards the bottom and pushed the hollow part of a pen through. The I fed the wire into the pen and pulled it all out the other side. The wire I ran is actually just under the rubber loom and you can only see it when you bend down and look for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted June 28, 2005 Share Posted June 28, 2005 Thanks for the Beta. Looks like speaker spacers & x-overs inside the doors for me. About the grounding, highly unlikely you're picking up interference thru the RCA's - that's mostly marketing hype to get you to buy expensive interconnects IMO. It does happen occasionally tho, and different "pros" have differing opinions on that. Some say there’s no appreciable benefit to huge wiring, caps & gold-plated anything, that it’s all marketing. Anyway… Here's a trick that will save some time - touch a bare wire between the HU & the amp ground before you rip up the carpeting again. If there’s ANY change in noise, then you likely have ground loops. If so, ground everything in the same place & remember the antenna’s a ground too. If not, try the same trick with cheap RCA's from source to amp over the seats (IE not under the carpet & thru dash, don't pull out existing wiring just yet). If you still have noise, you know it ain't the patchcords. Hell, do 'em both at the same time, if there's STILL noise, you have a comman/floating ground issue (probably). That's a different fritter to fry. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Here are the pics. Sorry for the lateness guys, I have been working on my gauges on the dash, muffler tips, and cubby retro. My amps are really hot but they have never cut out. I never drive them that hard but they have kick when I need them. System includes: Audiocontrol Three.1 EQ/LOC RF BD1000a1 RF 400a4 Focal Polyglass Components (Front) Focal Polyglass Coaxial (Rear) 2 x 10" Infinity Perfect10s in 2.o cuft box (Main Subs) 2 x 12" Kaption SPLs in separate 1.25 cuft boxes (Backup Subs) Custom Sch. 80 PVC 1" spacer rings (Front and Rear Speakers) KnuKoncept Fuseblock and Dist. Block Monster Cable 4 conductor speaker wire Sun Tune Volt meter (soon to be swapped out) Phoenix Gold Bass Cube I have attached pictures of all but the spacer rings. Power wire and right channels run down the passenger side, RCAs and left channels run down the drivers side. I did have a little alternator whine but is gone now. I am going to run the power wire down the center when I get a chance to do it. Grounding was done underneath the spare where the securing bolt is (no pictures taken of this). The three.1 is shown with 45mm DIN gauge pod which I was going to go with Omori gauges but am changing my mind. I will put up another post when my gauges are done and show what I have done in that space. You may have noticed that I am selling my brand new AVO DIN adapter. I am going to put fans in as the amps are still warm after 2 hours of being off. I have two vantec tornados lying around. Please let me know your thoughts. Again, apologies for the lateness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 More pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 The setup looks great. I didn't realize you're in a sedan, I'm doing mine in a OB. The 1/2 din guage setup is interesting, put up a pic when you've got them all in. I thought about the AVO kit, but I want to retain the cover from the bin & be able to close it. I'm putting an Audiocontrol HPX in there, same size as yours. I think it can be done by modifying the stock cubby bin. We'll see. It has an AUX-IN on the front, I was able to add a set of RCA's off the back that tie to that aux input. iPod's going there. Let me know how you rig the venting system for those amps, I'm looking for ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fzanetti Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Any particular reason why you kept the stock head unit? Have you seen any custom dash for a 2 DIN head unit on LGTs??? Please let us know, Thanks Flavio Zanetti Boston, MA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-gorithm Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Since there is no other way to get rid of it yet and I don't think I like the look of 1 stock and 1 aftermarket stereo in the car. I know what the freq. curves are at different volumes thanks to msmith in previous posts. I just use the eq's on the three.1 to overall adjust the levels so it would be somewhat near flat. Plus being a dj, I love to mess with eq's while the music is playing (house/techno). Plus my last deck (Clarion DXZ615) didn't have MP3 so I would rather have a changer than a deck that only plays 1 cd. If a solution comes along where we can order the HVAC without the stock stereo, I would go out and buy an alpine or eclipse deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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