Gmoe Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Visited family in Ma. over the weekend and washed my car when I was there. Well water..water spots all over the place. I didn't even think of it until I was drying. Left it to be cleaned when I got home since the road makes a mess of the car anyway. I washed, clayed and applied a quickie layer of sealant yesterday. Car was lookin great. Until today when I pulled it out into the sun. I've got a really bad haze along with very noticeable swirls! I had some before, but these really show and have large halo effect when the sun hits. What did I do!? I use MF towels only, so I'm at a loss as to how it happened. I just got a Porter Cable starter kit but haven't had a chance to use it. Guess it's time to get that thing out. I've got orange pads and white pads along with XMT #2, and XMT finishing glaze. Suggestions on the approach..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 i used the orange with the XMT swirl remover no.3, white pad with XMT swirl remover no.1, and black pad with finishing glaze in that order. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 ocdetails.com http://www.detailcity.org/forums/detailing-general/5077-porter-cable-tutorials.html Check through here they are both pretty good Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I too noticed that I have a ridiculous amount of swirl/haze marks on my car. This Porter Cable starter kit, where can I pick this up at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Here is a whole slough of kits. You can sometimes piece together a better package if you order things seperately though. Even places like Autogeek don't give much of a deal on the polisher. You can pick up a Porter Cable 7424 online for around $106 shipped if you look around. There are a couple of vendors on ebay selling them for less than a hundred brand new. I've ordered them for people before and they work great. Then you can look around for a good pad kit and polish combo. You can often save some bucks that way. If you have $300 - $350 to spare then I could get you such a setup that you'd have your car back to new in short order. There is no way around it though... This is going to cost money. $100+ for the machine, $10-$18 per pad X three pads, $12-$20 per bottle of polish X two or three bottles, $15-$30 per bottle of sealant or wax, towels, clay, etc... It all costs money. Those kits from Autogeek will get you started, but they won't have it all. The Wolfgang kit is the one I'd get if I had the choice. That one at least gets you some high quality sealant and polish. Two towels really isn't enough to survive on for long, but it is a great start. The amount I was talking about before is going to include other parts of the process that this kit isn't considering. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Ok thanks, I might just buy the buffer separately and then buy everything separately. I don't know, maybe it would be easier just to take the car to a body shop? http://cgi.ebay.com/Porter-Cable-7424-6-Random-Orbit-Polisher-Buffer-New_W0QQitemZ150266357742QQihZ005QQcategoryZ42266QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 not a body shop. go to a detail shop. body shops are for painting and bondo. detail shops are for polishing and wax. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonklein611 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 not a body shop. go to a detail shop. body shops are for painting and bondo. detail shops are for polishing and wax. What questions can I ask a shop to make sure that they know what the hell they are doing? I've got 2 local shops that look like they do decent work, but I don't want my baby to get hurt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 I wouldn't stress too much. If they have a shop then they probably know what they are doing. It is the teens detailing out of the trunk of their Mom's Camry that you have to worry about. Just let them know what your expectations are and be sure they tell you that they can handle it. People seem to think that detailing is easy money and that people don't know any better, so it is the 'go to' profession for people without any other skills. That includes teens and people who can't get jobs elsewhere due to, shall we call it "language barriers", if you know what I mean. See examples of their work if they have it and just be your own judge of whether or not they have the skills to do the job. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonklein611 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 Ok great. Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 The body shop I was referring to, they are also a detailing shop. They put my spoiler on and removed my pin stripes, going back at the end of the month for some tint. I should be ok with the buffing. They said they would charge $300-400 though :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 Since this is still alive I should update. Porter Cable+ XMT#2 + XMT Finishing Glaze took care of this no problem. Hell, the car looks 10x better than when I picked it up from the dealer a year+ ago. Wifes 96 Civic gets the treatment next. I should add that I had a bit of a boo boo with my car. Instead of masking off plastics etc. I figured "psshhht, I'll just not touch those areas". Now this was my first time with a PC. Yep...you guessed it... I melted the paint off the passenger side door handle within about 2 min. of starting. I almost cried. lol One order with paintscratch and an afternoon of masking, sanding, painting, clearcoat, wetsanding, polishing later it's all fixed up now. Whew... Color match from Paintscratch.com was spot on I should add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 The body shop I was referring to, they are also a detailing shop. They put my spoiler on and removed my pin stripes, going back at the end of the month for some tint. I should be ok with the buffing. They said they would charge $300-400 though :/ That is pretty high. I wouldn't pay more than $250 for this job. Between $180 and $250 is what the market average is for swirl removal and sealant treatment on a car. For $300 you could do it yourself and have enough product left over to make it all pay for itself. Do what you gotta do though... I just think if a shop is getting this much business from you then they might have cut you a better deal. I'd shop around and let them know you are shopping. Let them know you are shopping around for the tint too just to show them that they are at risk of losing a customer. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 That is pretty high. I wouldn't pay more than $250 for this job. Between $180 and $250 is what the market average is for swirl removal and sealant treatment on a car. For $300 you could do it yourself and have enough product left over to make it all pay for itself. Do what you gotta do though... I just think if a shop is getting this much business from you then they might have cut you a better deal. I'd shop around and let them know you are shopping. Let them know you are shopping around for the tint too just to show them that they are at risk of losing a customer. I believe I am getting a good deal on the tint thought, $180 for the whole car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 That's what I paid for the tint on my Legacy, so that sounds fair. Interesting that they can be so fair on something like window tint but they'll drill you on the detail. Hmmmmmm... _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cino135 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 not a body shop. go to a detail shop. body shops are for painting and bondo. detail shops are for polishing and wax. i tell at least 10 people a day this very statement. they always drop thier cars off for repairs and i get the "well, since its in there, cant you just paint here, buff there, take that out etc etc" AAARRRGGGGHHH. i can touch up, we only BUFF TRASH LEFT IN PAINT, then i recommend a good detail shop. sure we wash and clean the cars before delivery, but every time its a do this, do that, "cant you just paint the other side of the car too!!" (yes, i really get that last statement from people:spin:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a PC 7424 kit right now... but I've been teetering between the light swirl remover (#2) kit or the intermediate swirl remover (#3) kit. I might just buy the #2 and then borrow RaGe's #3 if I need to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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