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Outback XT Stereo Install - Alpine PXE-H650, Infinity, Raamat, etc...


tomfohr15

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

What is the difference between these two:

 

http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=47&osCsid=gpqkjf4ngtrufp4nbu9781m5g5

 

http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=48

 

Does the jazzy engineering connection have clean sound? I've just never heard of playing a blank cd. Let me know.

 

Have you heard or seen anybody with a Cleansweep:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XZPOnvGsZOu/learn/customcar/showroom/wiener_outback.html

 

I am curious if this is something I should look into to get an aux input for an ipod. Curious as to whether or not I could hook up through a USB to this thing.

 

Any thoughts?

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I really wish I had the time, knowledge, patience and perseverance to do this to my LGT wagon as well.....

 

Great write up though!! Thanks for posting it with pics and all...

 

 

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA

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That's pretty awesome. I did about 1/4 of that much work on my first Outback with Dynamat & it was a royal PITA. I also noticed very little improvement in noise reduction, so I swore I'd never do it again. Apparently I just needed to keep going. Kudos.
[CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER]
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I found that starting with the front doors and working backward to the hatch, followed by the floor, netted the best step by step approach with gradual improvement. Matting the hatch was more beneficial than I expected. The spare tire well and rear quarters are also good areas for improvement.
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Yea - I think I only put a small amount on the doors - I wasn't sure what I could cover. If I do it again on my STi I'll put a lot more on the doors and I'll do the hatch.

 

I'm not sure if it's reflected sound in the cabin or transmitted sound through the frame but a lot of sound seems to be coming from the headliner. I think doing the ceiling would be worthwhile too.

[CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER]
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  • 7 months later...
Wow... This was a project alright. I didn't realize how time consuming and big of a mess this was really going to be. I don't want to even count the hours. My goals for this install was to drastically reduce road noise and bring an end to the horrible Subaru audio.

 

Bumping an older thread...

 

Tom, any tips or directions on how to pull the interior? Can you point me towards any guide you may have used?

 

I'm planning to install a bunch of soundproofing in my wagon once the weather warms up. I've got 50 sq ft of B-Quiet Ultimate dampener and plan to order a bunch of foam decoupler and mass loaded vinyl to cover the floor. I want to reduce the road and exhaust noise and feel the mass loaded vinyl should do a good job, provided I really do a proper job of covering everything as completely as I can.

 

I plan to remove everything as you did and am looking for as much info as I can prior to tackling the project. Lots of door info, not as much for the balance of the interior/floor.

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It's been quite some time so as for pointers just start unbolting seats, unclipping wires, remove some interior panels, and then goes the carpet. It's a lot of work and plan on giving yourself a few days. Your knees and back are going to ache. As for the overall improvement, I'm not too sure. I think Subaru's just are prone to drowning even with the Prodrive exhaust.
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It's been quite some time so as for pointers just start unbolting seats, unclipping wires, remove some interior panels, and then goes the carpet. It's a lot of work and plan on giving yourself a few days. Your knees and back are going to ache. As for the overall improvement, I'm not too sure. I think Subaru's just are prone to drowning even with the Prodrive exhaust.

 

Thanks.

 

I had some serious drone with my Magnaflows before I re-installed the factory resonator in the mid-pipe. It's gone now but I'm going to install what I think will end up being a louder exhaust (cxlighting on NA 2.5i) and I still have quite a bit of road noise, with louder tires etc.

 

I think the mass loaded vinyl should really help, albeit at the expense of adding weight to the vehicle - it's more suited for soundproofing than the dampener and/or foam by themselves.

 

Great photos in this thread though - can really see how much is involved. I'm planning to use a 3-day weekend in May to do the whole thing. I remember how much work was involved installing my stereo - hopefully things will go quicker and smoother this time round :lol:

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CDN 2.5i, As for the door panel removal, I used a set of plastic interior door panel removal tools that I bought on ebay. They may be called Interior Trim Fastner Panel Popper Auto Repair Tools. There's an item 200404287324 right now on ebay. A local auto parts store may have something similar.

 

The set comes with 5 different tools of different shapes and sizes that help you pry up at the edges of various panels to pop them loose. They worked great and helped prevent damage to the panels.

 

I started from the front doors and worked backward, door by door, over a period of days. It took about 2 hours for the first door and 1 1/2 for the rest. I put 1 layer in each outer door skin and on the inner door skin. I put 2 layers behind the speakers and noticed improved base afterward.

 

The hatch made a difference too. You may want to try a door or two in the evening leading up to the floor on the weekend. Just a thought.

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When doing the doors (I also used two layers of Raamat and ensolite) make sure you fill the open area above the speaker . To really do it right you need buy some aluminum or perforated metal sheet and rivet or screw it in followed by the usual sound proofing. Really makes a difference in midbass resonse (thank ean611 for being the first to point out that weak area )
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^^ ebay seller won't ship to Canada for less than $29. :rolleyes: So, I'll look to source something similar locally or find another vendor.

 

^ Good point regarding space above the front speaker - I remember seeing that info in another thread. I wonder if the hole is there for access or simply to cut down on the amount of steel needed? Not sure what I'll use to patch it at this point. Don't think I want to drill/rivet but screws would be removable. I need to source out some ABS perhaps. I just looked at Manville's thread again - good pics of what can be done: http://lgtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11345

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I did sheet aluminum with very small sheet metal screws followed by two layers of Raamat and ensolite. ABS plastic would work as well . The firmer the better. Manville's ride is pretty sick , he lives very near me . Interesting how he uses the second driver on the door as a passive radiator.
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