compsurge Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Maybe just get a new injector and swap it in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Had a cylinder 3 misfire. Turned out to be the coil pack. Talked with davian from salem va after I fixed it and he said that was a common thing becauss that coil is closest to the uppipe and turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Had a cylinder 3 misfire. Turned out to be the coil pack. Talked with davian from salem va after I fixed it and he said that was a common thing becauss that coil is closest to the uppipe and turbo. Interesting cause. My #3 is slowly dying as well. Back of it is bulged a bit and monitoring roughness misfire counts at idle with the btssm app can go up to 3 (which is not much really). So I'll wait a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Well car is up and running again.. I found out first hand the injector won't fire if the coil does not work.. it was the coil that was bad.. geez what's the avg lifespan of them? I heard about impreza owners with issues but it seems weak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 They should last a very, very long time, but there are some which will fail along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Brand probably plays into it to. I replaced mine with the oem diamond coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 It was a OEM diamond coil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 alright. I'll post here and hopefully someone will chime in. Feeling a bit depressed right now.. Story: have had misfire in 2 lately on the 05 today, swapped at the same time spark plug and coil pack between 2 and 4 misfire stayed in 2. then I swapped injectors 2 and 4. After that upon starting, I am getting tons white smoke, constant misfire in cylinder 2 and STRONG smell of gas everywhere... So I shut the car off right away (ran for 30 sec max). Thinking the injector I just installed in #2 is stuck open. Do you agree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Did the misfire go to cylinder 4? Take the plugs out of 2 and 4 and let them vent for a bit. It sounds like the injector could be stuck open. Pull the screen off of the injector and see if you can see any debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 No. Misfire stayed in cylinder 2. Swapping the spark plug and coil did not move the misfire. So I swapped injectors afterwards. Misfire still stayed in two but was way bad, with white smoke and very strong fuel odor. No misfire in #4. So it is like the good injector from 4 that is now in 2 is stuck open for some reason . I would also note that this injector that came from cylinder 4 and is currently in 2, has only 15000 miles on it and looks very clean. so strange.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Is the coil pack plug seated well? It could be making intermittent contact. I also had a misfire once where I found it to be the spark plug itself. Check for signs of cracking. If you ever dropped the spark plug while in the packaging, it could have initiated a microcrack, as in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Check your connection at the injector. Sounds like it may be loose or not fully seated. Will give a false pulse (if at all). One of our other members was having an issue with MF code and it was just that, the connection was not fully seated. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Is the coil pack plug seated well? It could be making intermittent contact. I also had a misfire once where I found it to be the spark plug itself. Check for signs of cracking. If you ever dropped the spark plug while in the packaging, it could have initiated a microcrack, as in my case. When I swapped the spark plugs, I had a good look at them. Both looked the same. Coil pack should be sitting just fine as prior to swapping injectors, it ran ok. I will triple check though.  Check your connection at the injector. Sounds like it may be loose or not fully seated. Will give a false pulse (if at all). One of our other members was having an issue with MF code and it was just that, the connection was not fully seated. I am suspecting either a bad connection or stuck injector. I will check the connector for a 12v signal and will probably test the injector myself by supplying a very short burst of a 12 volt signal to it. I understand that if it is working properly, it should click. If stuck i should not hear any clicking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 If you want to get crafty, you can rig up a 12V source through a relay activated by an Arduino driving a PWM to run through the injector duty cycle. It's easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 ^ Care to elaborate? Link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I don't know how Subaru does their pulses, but all the injector is doing is turning on for x milliseconds, shutting off for x milliseconds. The tuning threads may have the injector duty cycle maps. I don't know if anyone has done this, but the basic logic would be to use the PWM functions to create say a 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% duty cycle. You would use the low voltage of the Arduino (5V on most common boards) to close a relay connected in between a 12V source and the injector +12V pin. As far as the code goes, you would just need to look up the PWM functions in the http://www.arduino.cc site. The duty cycles could be something like this: For simplicity sake, you wouldn't need to really use the PWM, just generate a digital high signal on one of the digital out pins to close the circuit and turn the relay on. 25%: on one second, off 3 seconds 50%: on two seconds, off two seconds 75%: on three seconds, off one second 100%: continuous on If you want to get fancy, you can use 4 momentary switches/buttons as inputs to trigger each of the four above duty cycles. If none are pressed, no flow. I think I'll do this project this summer when I pull my injectors out to do a bench test and cleaning. I figure at 140k miles it should probably be done with some of the good stuff. And I happen to have an IRTB from a Honda CBR in my basement. Maybe I can grab an injector off of it and have some fun with the relay board I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Time for an update. Finally got some time today to troubleshoot.. -checked injector wirings: it's getting correct voltage (12V--with ignition on). so no issue there -pulled injector out. Applied short burst of 12V to it. No clicking. I had an old spare injector. Did same test and it clicked. Saw on Youtube that if you gently hit the back of the injector a few times, it may get unstuck. I did that, re-applied 12V and it clicked . However, as you can see below on the pics (hard to see though on a picture but obvious in person), I think the smallest oring may be the culprit of this issue. Looks like when I put that injector in cylinder 2, the small oring did not sit properly and got slightly pinched on one side, and flooded the cylinder and somehow stuck the injector too.  Now have a look at the picture of the 'hole' where the injector sits in. Can you see how it is not really flush or aligned (see red circle)? Is this normal? As a side note, spark plug is now fouled (completely wet). Edited March 7, 2015 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Bump to hear your opinions.. Also, where do you think is the best place to get inexpensive o-rings for the stock injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Harbor Freight has o-ring assortments. As long as they are good for gasoline they should work. $8 for a few hundred or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Really? wow that's cheap. I'll check them out then. Also, any ideas about this misalignment shown on the picture? is this normal/ok?  http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204459&d=1426094851 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I would guess it is normal as long as everything fits up well. It appears to be a tolerance stack-up from manufacturing, but it wouldn't have passed inspection if they couldn't fit the injector in the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) thanks for the feedback. In any case, got the car started (finally) and drove around a bit. Looks like no damage so far to sensors and stuff... For future reference, injector oring (o-ring, o ring) part number: 16698AA110 Edited March 15, 2015 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesanekusa Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 1998 leg outback 5 MT Have misfire at speed over 80 MPH.And occasionally no start after short warm up.and random misfires at normal operating temp (NO CEL LIGHTS) .After testing everything and reading a lot. I changed both catalytic converters,replace knock sens.crank and cam pos. sens.After changing the crank sens ,everything vent to normal and no problem since that.It is six months now.and still OK.Happy camper again.Waited so long to post because I want to be sure it is fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorothy Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I have a Turbo Legacy 2009 with about 140,000 miles. The engine service light has come on. Per the dealer's service there is a mis-fire in one cylinder and needs a valve job for $4,000, but that might not cure the problem (they indicated they would be happy to take it in trade). We are now working with an independent shop about 500 miles away (in Abilene, TX). Cylinder pressure is good and the car runs well - good acceleration and the engine only "misses" rarely - 500 to 1000 miles which "trips" the service engine light. When the service light is tripped the cruise control and the "S" settings flash and do not function. I cannot switch back to the "I" or "S#" modes. Both coils have been replaced and injector cleaner has been run through the engine. I have been told the sensor on the 4th cylinder is the one indicating the fault/mis-fire. The shop feels that it appears to be a fuel problem - but the injector cleaner has not helped. What are the possible sources of the problem and what can we do - at least what can we try? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Have they checked the injectors? What was the result of the leakdown test from the dealer? Any competent or honest dealer wouldn't think about suggesting a valve job without proof. If they offered a $4k job without proof that the valves were not sealing, they should be reported to SoA. Have you changed your spark plugs? Intermittant misfires can often be caused by weak or poor spark. I'd do this before spending anything else. NGK SILFR6A or LFR6AIX/LFR6AIX-11 gapped correctly (0.030"). ONLY use NGK plugs and ONLY use one of these part numbers. Buy from one of the forum vendors and you will get the correct part. I assume you are having a shop do all the work? Edited March 19, 2015 by compsurge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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