CJC Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Planning to take my 05 LGT in for a 30k service. One of the things that I'll be asking for the dealer to correct is heavy vibration when braking. It's the classic steering wheel shimmy that just about gave my wife a heart attack when making the decent recently down from Lake Arrowhead here in SoCal. What gives? I've only got 29k on my wagon and the vibration has been around for at least the last 10k. Is the fix a new set of pads and rotors, and should I demand that from the dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I would almost guarantee that the vibration is warped rotors. You can try having them turned but if it's been that bad since 10K, I'd have them replaced! I would also ask about the pads as a matter of principal since I always change pads when I change rotors. My .02... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I would almost guarantee that the vibration is warped rotors. You can try having them turned but if it's been that bad since 10K, I'd have them replaced! I would also ask about the pads as a matter of principal since I always change pads when I change rotors. My .02...I would guarantee that you are wrong It is heavy pad deposits because the stock pads have a very poor heat range. Try re-bedding 1 or 2 times. (search) That should remove them. If it doesn't, then they are so bad that even a few passes to turn them will not remove the deposits as the metal has changed composition. If you can remove them, you will be better off after the bedding. BUT, the stock pads will tend to do it over time no matter what... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciadrew Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I had the same problem when i bought my car from a kid a few months ago with 30k on it. I tried doing a few hard brakes...like when u bed in a new pair...didn't work. Put a new pair of pads on, bedded them in...still vibrated. Finally brought it to the dealer to get the rotors turned on Friday...no more vibration as for the warrenty....i'm not sure about the rotors but i was told that they would replace the pads if they were worn to 2/32 or less in less than 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJC Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 Tried the bedding with some pretty hard braking on a clear stretch on my local toll road, say, 4-5 real hard stops from 60 or 70 to 10--didn't change anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciadrew Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 found my thread from a while ago when i had the same problem: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75850 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I would guarantee that you are wrong Which is why I phrased it with "almost"...Jeez, always trying to put a man down! I don't have stock brakes anymore so I haven't had any such problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Which is why I phrased it with "almost"...Jeez, always trying to put a man down! I don't have stock brakes anymore so I haven't had any such problems... The reason he said guarantee is that for the most part, the concept of "warped rotors" is a myth. While doing a re-bed usually clears up pads deposits, if they are too severe or have been on the rotor for too long, stock pads are not abrasive enough to always remove them. A set of Hawk Blues would do the trick, as would turning the rotors or replacing them outright (unnecessary). ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Good to know. Thanks for the info. Weasel... I'm sure my father would like to hear that since he has replaced WAY to many sets of rotors over his life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 Just so you know though, you might have to replace them if the deposits are bad enough... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 It seems the stock rotors have a very high tendency of attracting pad deposits. I am using DBA slotted and haven't had any vibration for almost a year now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexylegacy Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Tried the bedding with some pretty hard braking on a clear stretch on my local toll road, say, 4-5 real hard stops from 60 or 70 to 10--didn't change anything. They do mean "real" hard, as in you can feel your anti-lock starting to kick in and the speedometer is dropping so fast it has to catch up. Also, run it up in second to near redline and then keep your foot mashed on the gas and left foot brake as hard as you can. That's part of bedding in rotors and pads also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 They do mean "real" hard, as in you can feel your anti-lock starting to kick in and the speedometer is dropping so fast it has to catch up. Also, run it up in second to near redline and then keep your foot mashed on the gas and left foot brake as hard as you can. That's part of bedding in rotors and pads also FWIW, everything I've read (stoptech's website included) says you do not want to engage the ABS during the bed-in nor is dragging the pads while on the throttle a good idea either. YMMV ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 ^^^Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexylegacy Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 FWIW, everything I've read (stoptech's website included) says you do not want to engage the ABS during the bed-in nor is dragging the pads while on the throttle a good idea either. YMMV Obviously engaging the ABS is not a good idea, but I meant stepping on your brakes so that you're at that point. It's a fine line, I know. Maybe dragging brakes isn't good for a stoptech kit, or some other big brake kit, but I've done it numerous times with other cars and with a friend of mine who knows more about cars than anyone has a right to know, and dragging the brakes is most certainly a good idea to help transfer some of the pads to the disc and embed them properly. It's only hard on the engine. Trust me, it works. This is from first hand experience and subsequent track use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Obviously engaging the ABS is not a good idea, but I meant stepping on your brakes so that you're at that point. It's a fine line, I know. Just making clarification that engaging ABS was a bad thing during a bed-in Maybe dragging brakes isn't good for a stoptech kit, or some other big brake kit, but I've done it numerous times with other cars and with a friend of mine who knows more about cars than anyone has a right to know, and dragging the brakes is most certainly a good idea to help transfer some of the pads to the disc and embed them properly. It's only hard on the engine. Trust me, it works. This is from first hand experience and subsequent track use. I won't argue that it may work for you, still something I wouldn't do to my car, nor would I recommend it to others based on my own research. It is my understanding that your run the risk of glazing the pads with that procedure. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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