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porter cable ( PC ) starter kit?


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I know for a fact this has been covered, but looking for a bit more info.

 

 

What i am looking for.

 

*PC

*Pads - I dont know what to get. I am a novice when it comes to this kind of machinery. So I am just looking for a kit that will help me with what i need instead of buying this and going there and buying that. Just want 1 kit. Will be used for swirl removal and getting a brilliant shine.

*products. - maybe i can get lucky and find a product that comes with this kit or something?

 

 

 

Like i said i am a novice. So any helpful tips to use this thing is greatly appreciated.

 

Also, a site that would have the things i am looking for. If you know what you are talking about then i ask that if you list a site with what i am lookinf for you please explain what color pads will do what in the kit and how i will use them in steps.

 

I know this topic gets beat to death but i have the money and i wanna do it right. not only that but i like the conversation.

 

EDIT: I am a very repitious person. If i find something i like i stick with it. So what products are you using with your step by step. I am not having much luck though finding a kit that has it all. Products and pads. I want the whole thing.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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That looks like a nice package.

 

Try pming OC details. He will help you.

 

I bought my PC last year, and now I have boughten a wide variety if pads, from the small to the large ones.

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Rage,

Please let me know what OCD says, or what other information you are able to find. I also want a PC starter kit. Last time I did it by hand. I was sore for 3 days.

 

I already have the sealant, clay etc, just need to know what pads to get, like you.

Go Cardinals!

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http://www.autogeek.net/po.html

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com/Porter%20Cable%20Specials.htm

 

I got my PC from autodetailingsolutions, but I have used autogeek for other purchases and been happy with their service as well.

 

My paint had some minor swirls and some holograms on the roof and trunk from the dealer. #80 and a yellow meguiar's polishing pad took it off no problem. If you are planning on detailing harder paints you will probably want something more aggressive though.

 

My step by step for this winter was this:

wash - a combo of ONR and NXT wash

clay - mequiar's smooth surface or whatever is available locally

polish - #80 on a yellow polishing pad

sealant - wolfgang

wax - collinite 476s

NXT metal polish on the exhaust tips

303 on the interior

wolfgang leather conditioner on the seats

stoner's invisible glass on the glass

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Lots of different places sell a starter kit. My advice is too see which one has a shipping or percent off deal before you order.

 

For example http://www.autogeek.net has a 15% off plus free shipping with $75 or more purchase till the 31st with PBMA15 code

 

The Ultimate Detail Machine is also being sold in kits and thats basically a more powerful PC and is getting some good reviews for its correction power compared to the PC.

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alot of good help so far. I am also wanting to get the clay bar pad for it as well. Then someone also mentioned they now make a microfiber polishing pad as well. I plan on spending abotu 300 for everything. I just want to make sure what i am buying i am going to be using. i dont want anything i am not going to use and i also want to make sure i am well educated about the stuff. i have alot of heavy swirls so it will be fun.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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Skip the clay bar pad. Nobody I know uses it. Also just stick with the foam polishing pads until you get a lot more experience. Also stick with small circumference pads when using the PC. Look for the 5", 5.5"and 5.75" pads to use and get a 5" backing plate.

 

A lot of people also swear by the Edge system which uses dual surface 6" pads.

 

But with PC's the smaller the pad the better the cut.

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Skip the clay bar pad. Nobody I know uses it. Also just stick with the foam polishing pads until you get a lot more experience. Also stick with small circumference pads when using the PC. Look for the 5", 5.5"and 5.75" pads to use and get a 5" backing plate.

 

A lot of people also swear by the Edge system which uses dual surface 6" pads.

 

But with PC's the smaller the pad the better the cut.

 

I get a lot of tar on my car, and every spring after I use a whole bunch of gas to get it off I use the clay bar to finish the job.

 

I have been using those bars for 13 years now, and think they are very valuable, especially if you get those little particles in your paint surface.

 

+1 on the smaller pads. I use those, and I also use the 3.5 pads for smaller areas.

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I get a lot of tar on my car, and every spring after I use a whole bunch of gas to get it off I use the clay bar to finish the job.

 

I have been using those bars for 13 years now, and think they are very valuable, especially if you get those little particles in your paint surface.

 

Are you saying you use gasoline to get tar off your paint? Maybe I'm just confused.

 

I think iyalla was refering to the use of an adapter for the PC to hold the claybar. I have never seen anyone use one either and I personally wouldn't. I think you need to feel the clay in your hand. You can tell when a section is still rough or if you need more lub.

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Are you saying you use gasoline to get tar off your paint? Maybe I'm just confused.

 

I think iyalla was refering to the use of an adapter for the PC to hold the claybar. I have never seen anyone use one either and I personally wouldn't. I think you need to feel the clay in your hand. You can tell when a section is still rough or if you need more lub.

 

About $5 worth of GASOLINE to be exact. It works well, and when they just tar the crap out of the roads in a desperate attempt to fill potholes, it is about the only thing that works. Anything else takes more then 8 hours per vehicle. Professional detailers use it too.;)

 

I must have skimmed over things too quickly, as I would never use the PC to hold a clay bar, I agree it has to be in your hands. I have never seen a PC clay bar holder.:confused:

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^^^^^ bad deal. Check that action out. Get the PC for as little as you can and then you can afford to get the good stuff. All you really need is a blue and a white Edge 2000 pad. That will get you through pretty much most of what you will have to sort out on a Legacy. Other pads will be necessary if you are going to go pro with this hobby, but for my cars I rarely have to break out anything other than those. Get those two Edge pads and the adapter and then you can focus on which products to get. I think I have this question outlined in the FAQ page on (soon to be updated and posted) OCDetails.com. That might have some other information that would be helpful in addition to the fine advice you have received already. :)

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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As OCDetails says, the most important is the pc/udm. A light polishing pad and a finishing pad will be your pinnacle of tools, but those are only for very light swirls. You state you have visible damage, so I would start with a light cutting pad and fine compound, or you will be displeased with your purchases and efforts. http://autogeek.net/optimum-porter-cable-kit.html is what I would recommend. That kit will take care of your immediate damage, as well as the maintenance for a long time to come.

 

I would recommend adding a nice collection of all-purpose, polishing, and drying towels. A LOT of them, You can never have to much MF. http://autogeek.net/totaltowelkit.html

 

MF pads have their purpose, but foam pads work anywhere a mf pad does, and can be used for more purposes than the mf's. You might add mf pads later, but get a few foam ones to start with. http://autogeek.net/pinfoamwaxap1.html

 

Don't forget your clay, paint cleaner, shampoo, wash buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, wheel brush, wheel cleaner, tire shine, tire applicator, window cleaner, engine degreaser, engine shine, trim dressing, brushes, quick detailer, and more towels. I know you probably think you have all this, but the dish soap can go in the trash, right along with your old wash pads and harsh mitts, your armor all, and the bucket you used last weekend to fill with weed killer.

 

What about the inside of your car? Detailing is an addicting habit, and that $300 budget will quickly become $1000+.

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I still think a $300 is enough to get a good start. I'm going to update some things on OCDetails.com so they are reflecting current products and prices so people have a better idea of what to expect. I've got a vendor that is working really well with me right now that just bought sponsorship on LegacyGT. Tide just needs to flip the switch for him so he can start posting. It is going to be great having an active sponsor that has great products on the forums. Wolfgang is great and all, but even I'm having a hard time justifying $30 bucks a bottle when I am going through it as fast as I am. I've found a line of products that pleases me almost as much and doesn't cost an arm and a leg too. I'm also very close to releasing my own line of products, so that will be something to talk about this year too hopefully. ;)

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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  • 4 weeks later...
^^^^^ bad deal. Check that action out. Get the PC for as little as you can and then you can afford to get the good stuff. All you really need is a blue and a white Edge 2000 pad. That will get you through pretty much most of what you will have to sort out on a Legacy. Other pads will be necessary if you are going to go pro with this hobby, but for my cars I rarely have to break out anything other than those. Get those two Edge pads and the adapter and then you can focus on which products to get. I think I have this question outlined in the FAQ page on (soon to be updated and posted) OCDetails.com. That might have some other information that would be helpful in addition to the fine advice you have received already. :)

 

Can I ask you to elaborate on when you use each of these pads (the blue and the white edge 2000 pads). I re-read your article on the PC on ocdetails.com, but you mentioned red, green, and black pads there.

 

Thanks, OCD!

Go Cardinals!

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The red pad is a super soft pad, it can be used for final coats, or put a bonnet over it and use it for buffing.

 

The white pad is a non-abrasive finishing pad. Great for application of cleaners and waxes/sealants or all-in-one products if you are not looking to do any correction.

 

The blue pad is a very light abrasive polishing pad. This is the pad I use for final polishing and most all-in-one products. It will finish well and not leave any haze. Its not effective for removing any but the lightest of swirls even with a higher cut polish.

 

Green is a heavier cut pad than the blue, if you have deep swirls or any scratches this will be the least amount of cut that is effective. It will haze though, so you need to follow up with a finishing polish and the blue pad.

 

Orange is a step up from the green, use it with a heavy polish or compound for major damage.

 

Black is very rough, I couldn't imagine using it myself. If it came to that, I would take my car to a pro to use a rotary on it.

 

EDIT: At the very least you should have a white, blue and green pad.

 

More info on edge pads: http://autogeek.net/edge20006.html

Edge polishing guide: http://autogeek.net/edge-da-polishing-how-to.html

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