stewartg

I was thinking of that before I moved here and bought headlight stickers that redirect the light flow. But unfortunately those stickers no longer pass MOT, so a full conversion would be necessary. Plus if I somehow messed them up cooking them or clearing the amber, then I would be trying to import a set of USDM headlights, which sounds worse than finding UK parts.

I moved to the UK a little over a year ago and imported my '07 Legacy spec.B. It's been sitting in storage ever since arriving in the UK because I cannot get it registered until I do a few modifications, the biggest issue being the headlights need to be RHD and cannot have any amber. For the headlight swap, can I use any RHD BL/BP Legacy/Liberty/Outback set from AUS/JP/GB? I think most international markets used Xenon instead of halogen, so will that be a problem if I find lights and ballasts that fit? Also open to ideas on where to find parts. If I recall correctly, JDM Legacy's from 07 had the 08 USDM facelift. I finally went to go visit my baby and she is in great company, making some European friends. Nestled in between a Lamborghini to the left, a Ferrari to the right, a Porsche above it, and a Bentley in front. I can't wait to drive again.

I've gotten a lot of inquiries on the car through DM's, emails and text messages. Even one that wants to fly out and drive the car back to the east coast today. Thank you everyone for your interest. However, I have decided not to sell the car at this time. I never entertained the option of shipping the car because I believed it to be prohibitively expensive. Turns out it is ridiculously cheap, at least in relation to the loss I would take selling the spec b here and buying something else on the other side. For instance, if I managed to get the full $15k (14.5k forum price) for my car, and bought a used 2014 STI for £25,990 ($34,478), I am basically paying $20k to give away a car that is in 100% perfect working order, better than new, and has tons of sentimental value. The loss is only compounded by the hit I will take on my 5 month old 2021 Forester Sport and the two motorcycles I have to sell. Funny, I thought if/when I ever moved to Europe I would get a nice rare RHD Subie not offered for sale in the US. A S402, RB5, 22B, S209, etc. But, for ~$2k, I can ship my car from San Francisco to London, and I can even load it up with my spare parts for no additional charge. Then I just have to deal with driving a LHD subie in a RHD country for a few years until I eventually move to Spain. I never imagined that one day I would be doing the opposite and taking a rare LHD USDM Subaru to Europe. Again, thank you everyone for your interest, and I am sorry for the change in direction. I've reached out to all who have contacted me thus far. It shows that all the years of blood, sweat and tears (actually car shampoo, sealant and other protectants) I've put into keeping this car in top shape has paid off and people are willing to pay a premium for a 14 yr old Subaru Legacy.

Oops, I copied the format from another post and didn't update the VIN. It is corrected now. Thanks

Sorry, wrong section. New posting at https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-california-2007-subaru-legacy-gt-spec-b-287275.html?p=6051479#post6051479 Pictures and write-up will be posted in new thread this weekend. Please close this thread

UPDATE: Not for sale Year, Make and Model: 2007 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT spec.B Color: Gray Miles: 21,811 Transmission: 6MT Title: Clear CA title in hand Lien: None Location: San Francisco, CA VIN: 4S3BL696373213656 E-mail address: birbeck at gmail dot com Asking Price: $14,500 COBB AccessPort v2, tuned with Stage 1 performance map (ACN91 v400) AVO turbo back exhaust STi pink springs Cusco F+R strut tower bars Cusco F+R anti-sway bars AVO endlinks AVO chassis reinforcement STi short throw shifter STi 6MT shift knob Replica STi front lip spoiler Wilwood Superlite BBK, slotted f+r rotors, 4-pot front, 2-pot rear Hawk HPS pads, 50% life remaining (extra 75% HP+ pads included) Brand new tires 215/45R-18 Bridgestone Potenza Sport (Installed 7/21, less than 200 miles ago) Fumoto valve Window tinting DRL disable mod Nav input while driving mod Aux video input mod The cleanest, lowest mileage, most tastefully modified spec.b you've seen. CA street legal, low miles, beautiful, single owner, mostly garaged, clean title, no accidents. The AVO downpipe and midpipe are not installed at the moment, only the tailpipes. The stock pipes were put on for a smog test in August (it passed). The AP tune is CARB approved so no reflashing is needed for CA smog tests. All stocks parts (rotors, calipers, brake pads, springs, sway bars, endlinks, exhaust, badging) come with the car. Also included is an OEM fitted car cover, all-weather floor mats, sun shade, wireless phone charger, bluetooth audio receiver, both keys + valet, original window sticker, manuals, service records, etc. The car has seen a few spirited drives and track days, but mostly sat in my garage, taking it out from time to time to keep the fluids moving. It has been hand washed and waxed more times than it has been driven. All work (except changing brake pads, oil, tires and ecu flashing) was done by Rallitek in Oregon and Autokraft in California. All factory recalls were completed by CARR Subaru or Putnam Subaru. Car looks and drives better than new. I am very sad to be putting this up for sale, but I am most likely moving internationally early next year. Otherwise it would remain in my hands for another 14 years. The 2021 Subaru Forester Sport will also be for sale soon if you're interested. Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YVdtCVGSLd4yCMUi6 I'll update the gallery with more photos this weekend.

Cobb AP + stage 1 CA AVO turbo back exhaust STi pink springs Cusco F+R strut tower bars Cusco F+R anti-sway bars STi short throw shifter Replica STi front lip spoiler Willwood BBK Brand new 215/45R-18 BRIDGESTONE POTENZA SPORT XL STi short throw shifter The cleanest, lowest mileage, most tastefully modified spec.b you've seen. CA street legal, low miles, beautiful. $15k, single owner, always garaged, clean title, no accidents

I have an '07 spec.b, so JDM grills won't fit, apparently 05-07 GT grills don't fit, and while the DIY projects from stoplightassassin and nospmoht04 look amazing, I wouldn't have the skills or resources to pull of such a good job. The grille options sticky is old so the pictures don't work and links are dead. I really want a s402 replica sport mesh grille. The only off-the-shelf thing I can find is the AVO one for GT's which I guess won't fit the spec.b, and the mesh doesn't look good being tight silver mesh. I really hate the chrome wings and for 14 years have despised looking at the front of my car when I know how good the JDM models look. Please help me out. Looking for something off-the-shelf, a used DIY in good condition, or someone willing to do the DIY if I send them a stock grille.

Even with the vip you might want to try to haggle with them to see if you can do better in the current market, especially on an outgoing model year. Once you present them with your vip creds, your chances of haggling are over. Of course, if your trying to talk them down and they wont budge to invoice or below, and then you hand them your vip papers, they wont be happy with you.

Yeah

Keefe, I am taking your recommendation and getting some Toyo R1R's in 225/40/18 to put on my 18" spec.b stockers. Before I get back out to the track I also need to get my brake situation taken care of. On my previous hpde event, after about the second lap of each session, the car would start to shake violently when braking. There was no pulsating in the pedal, it was mostly felt in the steering wheel, but it shook the car enough for the instructor to be concerned. We checked for flat spots in the tires, checked air pressure, checked the lug nut torque, and everything looked fine. When I came back from lunch, he had someone check over my car and said that it is cause by a soft spot in the rotor and it not heating up uniformly. I took the car to the dealer to have the rotor replaced but they only resurfaced it (there was some very slight warping) and said SOA will not allow them to replace the rotor. They told me the rotors are not designed to withhold track conditions and even if they replaced it, the problem would return (I know this is total bs). Since the problem is not fixed, I am looking at what I should do. I know I need lines, pads and fluid at the least, and I probably want some slotted front rotors, but they need to clear the stockers. I am also considering the wilwood kit with 4-pot front calipers, slotted front and rear rotors, front and rear lines and hp+ pads all around, but I would rather not spend that much if it isn't necessary. My current pads have about 75% life remaining after 8500 miles and 1 track day, and the tires have enough life left in them for probably another 2 track days. With my bad rotor I was letting off the throttle around 120 and coasting down the rest of the straight getting on the brakes early and braking early and light on all the other turns because it was tough fighting the vibrations. This really took a lot of the fun out of things. Any recommendations? I will need to order brakes and tires very shortly, my next track day is 3 weeks from today. I've also gone stage 2 since my last day out which means I will have even more speed to shrub off.

Well these are last minute and those that would go already know. Travis and Ken will be at CARR Subaru tonight from 7-8:30. Also appearing is the 2010 LGT and Outback. Tomorrow @ PIR, Oregon Trail rally SS stages, beginning at 7P. $10 Sat & Sun, Hood River.. Oregon Trail Rally. Free. Thurs/Friday June 4th & 5th. Cascade Sports Car HPDE & School @ PIR. $200. pdx 05 lgt, sirsimon, and myself will be there as well as a few other cool cars (wanna race a gt-r?)

imba was still doing it and hopefully will be when i'm ready for my next car. the clubs can change quite frequently.

I was actually thinking of starting up mountain biking this spring/summer with my friend who is a veteran at it. $30/yr to secure my VIP sounds good.

My salesperson just left Subaru. I had a good run with him, buying 3 cars with VIP pricing without ever having to join any club and wait 6 months or getting buying papers mailed to me. So now, which club should I join, hmmmm.

Same here, and I would watch the painters like a hawk. I will not buy a new car that has sat on the lot even for a week. I take delivery when it is coming off truck, they inspect it, and im on my way home to detail it myself. I'll never let a dealer touch my paintwork again.

Gap is good, but is usually cheaper through your auto insurance carrier. I know all car guys aren't bad, I used to work at Lexus and the finance manager there was a really nice guy.

This guy is a big push over, and was taking it personal that I wouldn't accept the extended warranty. On my first Impreza (also my first new car purchase) he suckered me into everything as well as inflating the cars price. When that was totaled I ordered another car from them, went to do the signing and he had all the paperwork done up per my last sale. I didn't want all the crap this time and he refused to rework the paperwork, so I left swearing never to return. Bought my next two cars elsewhere and then I was looking for a spec.b. Well, I was referred to the fleet manager at the same dealer and he quoted me much lower than anyone else. I was reluctant but worked a deal with him for even less than his initial offering of invoice. Then he sat me in f&i, it ended up being the same dick that pushed me over there 7 years ago. He took it personal that I wouldn't take the gap and extended warranty, started raising his voice and calling me an idiot. I walked out of there, jumped in my car and left. The salesperson called me asked what happened and then he talked to the dealers owner. The dealers owner called me back and asked me to give a written statement, after he received that he called subaru finance and got my loan rate reduced since they couldn't knock anymore off the car (dealer made only $50 on the deal). I went back in and signed new papers with the fleet manager and waited a few weeks for my car to arrive. He told me if I buy any other cars from them I will get VIP or lower and he would do the signing. 6 months later I took him up on that offer and bought my 08 Impreza. Now I refer everyone to him even though the same guy is still the f&i manager. Sorry thats off-topic, just a sore spot for me.

Same deal with me, just not married to anyone at the dealer. They gave me a great price and said all my future purchases would get the same deal. No VIP waiting or paperwork. And my salesperson does all the paperwork so I don't have to talk to the f'n F&I manager. I hate that dick. Edmunds lists the base Invoice and itemizes the destination and invoice on all options. On Edmunds you get to see the base and actual msrp, the base and actual invoice and the tmv (true market value, what dealers submit as actual sale prices).

I stand corrected then. Jon knows his stuff and I have no reason to argue with what he says, I guess I was mistaken.

It is simply the price you pay for the car before any other rebates, finance charges, taxes and fees. Destination is not included in the price.

What is the difference between a vehicle sold order and a dealer inventory purchase? They get shipped the same and arrive on the same truck don't they? It's often easier to work a deal on a car that has been on the lot a while, but those cars will most definitely have some paintwork problems from power washing and/or quick detailing. Always special order when you can. Regardless, you are buying yours new off the truck, but I don't see how that is any different than a vehicle sold order.

^ Ford Explorer? I am not sure about lease pricing, but depending on which vip program you are in, it is either invoice or invoice -2%. Your dealer or club accounting should be able to give you the details.

^+1*2, got vip pricing without ever having to wait for a membership, or get a voucher. on both cars. actually got both cars just slightly lower than invoice - 2%. EDIT: got the spec.b at that price even while dealers were asking $4k markup, total price including finance charges for the life of the loan is exactly what my starting offer was (below msrp), so i saved a lot. In TX they couldn't move spec.b's though, I was doing a nationwide search and most of the cars I could find were in texas for invoice.

edmunds only refers to the price of the vehicle before any fees and taxes. look at the sale price of the car (obviously after options, destination and excluding any money down or trade-in) and compare that to the tmv price. It sounds like you did ok, but not quite vip. does anyone know how edmunds obtains the tmv price?