Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Will Drilled/Slotted Rotors make a difference


Prime Power

Recommended Posts

This is actually for my Avalanche, but I tow and the brakes have been awful since I've owned it. I want better braking and way better pedal feel. So I want to upgrade, but will slotted and drilled rotors help any. I am on a budget of about $600 and can get new rotors, pads and ss brake lines for that. Going through R1 concepts but using their premium stuff, not the ebay. So should I do that, will it be enough? Or will just getting new pads and upgrading the brake fluid and maybe ss lines work for me. Thanks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You tell me

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8151

Q: Are slotted and cross-drilled rotors needed?

A: Slots are useful to a point when you are looking for a way to prevent glazing of the brake pads. Glazing of the pads happen when you overheat the brake pads (either too hard on the brakes and not big enough of a rotor to dissapate the heat fast enough thus makes the pad material harden and it starts to lose its frictional properties. Cross Drilled really has no real use now as brake technology has advanced.. it does have an appealing look to them, but as for today, you dont need them as they serve next to nil on purpose. Specifically on the Legacy (GT or 2.5i) the brakes are fairly well using just the stock rotors. The weight of the rotors (mass) is pretty heavy.. more mass also helps in heat capacity, so the more mass you have for the rotors, the more repeative braking that you can do. Big Brake Kits do benefit from this very reason, but a few other brake tests has shown that the thickness of the plates and the overall thickness of the rotor proved to be more of a useful design than just the overall diameter of the rotor [Motor Trend did the study about 2 to 3 years ago I believe]. Blank rotors are fine and does the job, especially for a daily driver that doesnt need that heat capacity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be interested in some SS brake lines from you if you offer them for an 03 avalanche 4wd z-71. Let me know. Thanks. I think I will just go with some hawk lts pads, ss lines and some good fluid.

 

We do. Email me at eric@brakeswap.com and Ill set you up with all of the above (Ill also need to know if you have a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton Avalanche). Be aware that the LTS pads dust! However, if you are doing towing or heavy duty with them they work very well. I have used them on my Denali towing the racecar and they work great!

 

Pads should be around $50 or so.

Free Sonax Cleaner Deal

http://www.brakeswap.com

Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol...

Great service. No bumping required :icon_tong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just sent the email. Also I have never changed the brake fluid, do I need a pump for it and anyone have a link for a walkthrough? Thanks

 

Just got your email and replied. Bleeding the brakes on the Avalanche is the same as your Subaru. Easiest way is to have a second person pump the pedal while you open the bleed screw and flush.

Free Sonax Cleaner Deal

http://www.brakeswap.com

Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol...

Great service. No bumping required :icon_tong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That will get all of the fluid out?

 

Before you start, take a turkey baster or similar and suck out all the fluid from the brake fluid reservoir. REFILL, then start the process. That will get it all flushed out good. But BE SURE you refill the reservoir before you bleed!

Free Sonax Cleaner Deal

http://www.brakeswap.com

Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol...

Great service. No bumping required :icon_tong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use