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Steering wheel vibrates upon breaking


ciadrew

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I had many issue with this from day 1 of ownership. Brought it back 3 times and they cut rotors twice. Once I got different pads it stopped and never came back.

 

Get new pads, not OEM.

 

Same for me. I returned to dealer, they turned the rotors under warranty and it came back. I put BobCat pads on and another turn on the rotors and have been problem free for 20K+ miles. Pad deposits seem to be the problem for most.

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I've had the vibration issue come and go several times. The first time I took the car to the dealer and had the rotors turned. That fixed the problem for a few miles, but it eventually came back. After that i have been putting up with it and doing the occasional hard braking to get rid of it. That usually got rid of most of the problem but not all of it.

 

Yesterday i had some time off and decided to try the Stop Tech Bedding procedure. I was on a lonely country road and did about a dozen hard brakes: 90mpg to 10mpg, but the problem is still there and doesn't seem to want to go way.

 

At this point I'm fed up with the issue and want a permanent solution. The question is do i need new pads or new pads and rotors?

 

Thanks Dan

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If the pad deposits have been on the rotors for so long, the OEM pads may not be enough to scrub them clean. An upgrade to a performnce street pad ( like the Hawk HPS, others have had success with different makes as well) will likely solve the problem for good. You may need to have the rotors turned again if the current deposits are really bad, but it an upgrade to something like a DBA4000 rotor certainly won't hurt things.
ignore him, he'll go away.
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If the pad deposits have been truly baked into the rotors, then you might just have to get new rotors, as the pad material can actually change the characteristics of the rotor metal below as it will heat up more than the metal around it. I would do new pads, and rotors, and make sure to bed them in properly ;)
:spin:
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I've actually been on Hawk HPS pads (front only) for about 6 months. I had the shake when using stock pads and decided to go with Hawk and front rotor resurfacing. That got rid of the shaking, but it came back eventually.

 

That's when I started searching and started repeating the bed-in procedure to solve my shaking problem for a few weeks. It works, but I'd RATHER not do it.

 

Sorry for thread-jacking, but without new rotors, you may run into the same problem with the shaking coming back. I would have bought new rotors, but I never have enough money to get all the stuff I want! When my wife's SUV is paid off this summer, I'm going to try and sweet talk her into 20g upgrades, rotors, and possibly new rear pads. :)

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Might be the change in the composition of the rotors like I mentioned earlier... :(

I read an excellent tech FAQ on that subject. Just searched for it, thought it was on stoptech's site, but I couldn't find it. Chemistry's a bitch sometimes.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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If the pad deposits have been truly baked into the rotors, then you might just have to get new rotors, as the pad material can actually change the characteristics of the rotor metal below as it will heat up more than the metal around it. I would do new pads, and rotors, and make sure to bed them in properly ;)

 

The iron turns into "cementite" or something....I can't find the article either but I've seen it. Good stuff.

 

 

- Andrew

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  • 1 year later...
not to bring back an old thread to life wow 2 years old. But from my experience pulling the e-brake when you park tends to wrap the rear rotors. Since they are hot when you stop and you press the rear brake pads into them pretty hard for an extended amount of time, the pad sticks to the rear rotor and will misshape it as well... try to find a level place to park and just leave it in gear and you'll notice the vibration will not come back. If you must park on a hill then obviously pull the e-brake but try not to!
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Way to bump an old thread with mis-information

 

 

 

Your brakes should NEVER be so hot that the parking brake would cause them to warp... unless you are tracking your car

 

The rear brakes see minimal loads under normal driving. So much so that you can usually touch the rear rotor within a min or two of stopping if not immediately after.

 

 

 

Besides all that, our parking brake is a drum brake inside the hat of the rear rotor. The pressure of the parking brake will not warp the rotor. For our setup, the problem of using the parking brake on a hot rotor is that the parking brake material could bake onto the rotor and either severely stick, or unbalance the rotor.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Hello Everybody.

 

I had the same issue. My dealer has turned rotors several times while under warranty and finally they replaced them because could not resurface them more. It looks like this new rotors I have the same problem again. I checked the rotors and they have some sort of radial scratches on them (attaching picture), my old rotors had the same thing. Did anybody have anything like this? Are all Subaru rotors wrap prone?

 

Thanks,

PN.

SD530482.jpg.7fd59796b4ac2834167d0ffaeb6bcd8a.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

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