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Outback XT to Legacy GT


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I lowered on legacy coil over its awesome, they are K sports. Have no idea how much I lowered it but its pretty low.

 

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b253/regulata700t/OutbackLowered004.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b253/regulata700t/OutbackLowered008.jpg

 

PS Knightpitt why dont you just throw legacy coil overs on it, that IS a legacy suspension.

 

If you really really wanted a Legacy suspension I think youd need the complete rear end since the OB has body spacers and the rear lateral links are different as unclematt stated. Also on top of that you need a new steering rack possibly for the steering and of course legacy spring and shocks.

 

I dont know what the true improvement would be for all the money and time. My outback on Legacy coils handles much better then an OEM Legacy, and I just threw on coils and got an alignment.

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I lowered on legacy coil over its awesome, they are K sports. Have no idea how much I lowered it but its pretty low.

 

...

 

PS Knightpitt why dont you just throw legacy coil overs on it, that IS a legacy suspension.

 

If you really really wanted a Legacy suspension I think youd need the complete rear end since the OB has body spacers and the rear lateral links are different as unclematt stated. Also on top of that you need a new steering rack possibly for the steering and of course legacy spring and shocks.

 

I dont know what the true improvement would be for all the money and time. My outback on Legacy coils handles much better then an OEM Legacy, and I just threw on coils and got an alignment.

 

 

Thanks for the reply! Coilovers are out of the question for me mostly because this is the family car -- taking long trips up and down the east coast with my wife and kid. I have another car to beat around and AutoX for the time being. The XT is the sporty/comfy street car! =)

 

The second reason why I don't just slap on the Legacy coilovers (or struts/shocks/springs, for that matter) is that I am very worried about the camber and toe curves as the suspension articulates throughout its range, especially with the body spacers in. This may not prove to be as much of a problem in Florida (I don't know), but the documented ghostwalking issues on ice have me a little frightened. I'm planning on being in New England some during the winter, so I'm hoping that I will have a competant snow/ice vehicle.

 

As for the steering rack, I am not sure that will have to be changed out. While the lower ratio of the Legacy may be preferable, I haven't seen any information saying that they're not interchangable due to suspension ride height or any other difference between the Legacy and OB.

 

The improvement that I would get from a plain jane Legacy suspension is mostly better streetability, less pitch/roll, no ghostwalking, more options for competant shocks. I'm not looking for raw performance out of this car. If so, then the coilovers would be the best option. I'm just looking to make the car enjoyable and safe to drive around... with my wife and kid enjoying the ride as well.

 

Thanks again for the replies! Any links to a comprehensive part list to change out the OBXT suspension for a LGT one?

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From what I've been able to gather, the ghostwalk issue related to suspension appears to be due to the added lift in the USDM version and improper toe in settings. So what seems to happen is, as the suspension compresses due to load the rear toe-in becomes greater than what is stable and the rear starts to steer the back of the car side to side (each tire trying to steer in). This is most notable on ice or hard pack snow (I have yet to experience it and I;m in snow country). The remedy seems to be to adjust the toe-in to the higher negative setting (-3) with a bit of load in the car, 200 lbs or so. Then when the load increases the toe-in changes from -3 toward 0, which is still in spec.

 OUTBACK model
–3 — 0 mm (–0.12 — 0 in) Toe angle (sum of both wheels): –0°15′ — 0°
Except for OUTBACK model
0±3 mm (0±0.12 in) Toe angle (sum of both wheels): 0°±0°15′

Putting on coilovers, lowering the car and aligning it as above shouldn't have any bearing on the problem either way. It all comes down to which part of the arc the suspension is in at any given load. If the arc is of even radius then the suspension will act the same. If the arc is elliptical then it could make the problem go aware if the suspension is in the high radius portion of the arc, or make it worst if in the lower radius portion. I think that's the problem with the lifted Outback. The suspension compresses so much the radius changes to exaggerate the problem under heavy load.

Anyway...I have BC coilovers which I'll be putting on in the next few weeks and I'll document what I do and find. I'll investigate the spacers to see if they can be removed from the rear subframe too.

 

I'm curious about the steering ratio comment. The manual indicates that the wheel angle on the OB is greater than a Legacy. To me this indicates a tighter turning radius although the steering wheel may have to rotate a little extra to hit that greater angle.

From the manual:

[u]Model          Inner wheel     Outer wheel[/u]
OUTBACK        38.0°±1.5°      33.7°±1.5°
2.5 i, 2.5 GT  37.2°±1.5°      33.0°±1.5°

[u] Steering Wheel[/u]
Lock to lock turn Except for 2.5 GT: 3.2, 2.5 GT: 2.8

I'm impressed by the OB turning radius. The steering wheel will actually lock at full turn and I need to move it back by hand, it will not self centre if you let the wheel go.

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fantastic reply dshultz! I completely agree that the ghostwalk issue has to be related to the body lift and improper toe. The only disagreement that I might have is that the coilovers will affect ghostwalking due to the stiffer springs and a new baseline point on the arc. The ride height will affect how the camber/toe is changed over the first "x" inches of suspension displacement under load and the spring stiffness will affect how large "x" is.

 

Also, I'm not sure that I'd say that the radius of the arc "compresses" on the OB suspension under load... we're talking about metal parts so the suspension travel is going to be pretty well defined beforehand... it just wasn't well thought out.

 

It seems that the OB suspension lift affected the shape of the arc (or at least the starting point on the arc) such that there is way too much toe change under load. I don't believe that the springs are significantly softer than the Legacy (causing more travel), just that dynamic toe curve is jacked up (probably along with the dynamic camber as well).

 

Interestingly, this means that the change in alignment specifications is little more than a bandaid solution. The initial settings were so that the car would be neutral without load. Under load, the toe changed so much that it wasn't neutral anymore. Now, they have a slight toe out when unloaded and less toe in when loaded. The car still has too much toe change when loaded; this is just an attempt to keep it as neutral as possible throughout loading conditions. I understand that Subaru isn't going to fix the dynamic toe problem, so that's what I'm setting out to do!

 

If I was willing to sacrifice the ride quality with stiffer springs, that would be a good first step -- just limit the suspension travel. Since I'm not, I'm looking towards the Legacy suspension, but I'm worried that a simple spring/strut/shock/alignment change won't solve the root cause of the ghostwalking issue and may make it worse... I have a new starting point on the curve, but who knows at what point in the toe/camber curve I'd be then and if dynamic toe would be worse? And, how much worse could it get under load?

 

As for the steering rack, what I meant to say is that the steering on the Legacy is "faster", meaning that 90 degrees of rotation of the steering wheel causes more directional change in the car. Not a big difference to me on this car, because I'm not trying to slalom it. =)

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  • 1 year later...

sorry to bring this back from the dead as welll as hack the photo but just super curious :lol:

 

so is there no way we can slam an outback like this??? even with a great amount of fender rollage behind the fender flare? :lol:

http://i52.tinypic.com/2uicbx4.jpg

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^^^

photochop not needed...

 

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu178/classified69/DSC_8971.jpg

 

UMM, YOU JUST MADE MY DREAMS COME TO REALITY!!! :eek:

what is your suspension setup if you dont mind me asking? that is the lowest BL I have seen and I want a clone mine like yours! :redface: im just not sure which coilover will bring me that low. Do you have any issuses with cv boots ripping?

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Any Legacy Sedan coilover will get you that low.

 

This was mine when it was on the highest a set of sedan coilovers could go:

 

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii287/bac52/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00073-20100127-1251.jpg

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Any Legacy Sedan coilover will get you that low.

 

This was mine when it was on the highest a set of sedan coilovers could go:

 

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii287/bac52/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00073-20100127-1251.jpg

 

nice!!! did you have to use any type of camber kits at all?

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No. I used the camber plates that came with the coilovers (but swapped them so they were camber/castor plates).

 

I am using the Whiteline KCA399 now, because I was disappointed with the inability to get ANY negative camber at stock ride height (after I took off the coilovers, and before I put on the Bilsteins).

 

It sits a little higher now that I'm on Bilsteins.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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