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Going Stage 2...DP question.

TPLGT

By TPLGT
in Intake and Exhaust

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BMac1203 Proficient

BMac1203

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My bet is it's even more....

 

 

I have had the gutted stocker....Crucial & now the COBB. When going to a larger turbo I can guarantee that # goes up

 

# goes up AFTER you throw on an upgraded turbo or some serious mods.

 

This debate could go on forever. No one has actual proof of gutted vs. a/m DP gains/losses. Even then, each DP from every mfr flows differently, so the argument would still have questionable details.

 

Many are happy with gutted stocker until they go bigger.

 

Beyond the gutted vs. a/m, arguing company to company is the same ballgame. They're all different, there's no winner, and unfortunatley you'll never get a straight answer.

 

I had an Invidia catless DP, then gutted stocker, now back to stock DP. Yeah, backwards I know, ran out of money :(

 

Best of luck to OP!

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TPLGT Grand Master

TPLGT

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I say go completely catless, install a BOV and shoot flames!!! :lol:

 

 

You have a point here which brings up another topic. If you are using a Catless UP and Dp is there any thing else that needs to be done to protect the car from any issues?

Rehab is for quitters.
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BMac1203 Proficient

BMac1203

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Well your stock Catback exhaust still has one CAT. So you should be ok. I still would probably go with a hi flo catted DP (Cobb makes a nice piece)

 

Isn't that not true?

 

If you replace the DP (assuming with a full-length, not shorty) You're removing 3 cats (UP, DP, & MP).

 

Isn't the only thing on the stock catback the resonator?

 

In theory a catless UP & DP and BOV would shoot flames, even on stock exhaust I thought...but Im known to be wrong hah

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TPLGT Grand Master

TPLGT

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Well your stock Catback exhaust still has one CAT. So you should be ok. I still would probably go with a hi flo catted DP (Cobb makes a nice piece)

 

I feel I recevied a solid deal on a MR up and DP so I am going with that...any thoughts anyone?

 

I really wnated the COBB but for less than half the cost, I got both.

Rehab is for quitters.
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fishbone Grand Master

fishbone

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In order to be ready for a possibly bigger turbo, is there a certain set of aftermarket catted downpipes/uppipes to look for, or will any pretty much work?

I'm lurking the sales threads for some deals on catted UP/DP so I can go Stage 2 [don't need anything else, right?], but if I'm gonna spend that money, might as well do it right and keep the window of opportunity for a possibly bigger turbo sometime in the future.

But then again I might be happy with Stage 2 and just stick with the stock snail.

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SeeeeeYa Mentor

SeeeeeYa

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In order to be ready for a possibly bigger turbo, is there a certain set of aftermarket catted downpipes/uppipes to look for, or will any pretty much work?

I'm lurking the sales threads for some deals on catted UP/DP so I can go Stage 2 [don't need anything else, right?], but if I'm gonna spend that money, might as well do it right and keep the window of opportunity for a possibly bigger turbo sometime in the future.

But then again I might be happy with Stage 2 and just stick with the stock snail.

 

 

I hope you meant to say catless UP/DP because catted is what you have stock and catLESS is what you'll need for your intentions. ;)

 

Prepare to enjoy Stage 2 for some time before jumping into turbo waters, perhaps a year or so. There is a lot to learn and to enjoy first. You'll know when it is really time.

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SeeeeeYa Mentor

SeeeeeYa

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^ Should you be 100% catless for a bigger turbo though?

 

(the Cobb Catted DP has a hi flo cat)?

 

True you are! I guess I was concerned that the OP included the UP as catted and went off on an incomplete tangent. Good catch.

 

Yes, if you choose a full length downpipe one with a high flow cat, such as Cobb's, is preferable to no cat at all, IMHO. It is what I have. I've been totally catless..... not for me.

 

On the other hand a 'shorty' DP can be catless, leaving the midpipe catted with little penalty. But if considering a full CBE get a high flow cat in there someplace.

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tommypenguin Mentor

tommypenguin

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After being catless for a month I have already purchased a cobb catted dp. It will be in next week. I have learned there are smell penalties with being catless.

 

I've also learned as long as you play by the rules catless the smell won't get to you. In my case I can't have my windows down, because I was once told by a scholarly member on these forums that vacuum will be created pulling the catless exhaust fumes from the trunk out of the ventilation flaps to my cabin. Some people don't have much smell issue being catless most do. I love driving with my windows down, and when I do it now, it smells on occassion. Just some things to consider...

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tommypenguin Mentor

tommypenguin

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After you go stage 2, make sure you check your oil everyday for the first week to make sure you don't have a major oil leak, and then at least once a week. After the first week of stage 2, if you can get your car on a lift and look for seeping oil leaks from oil lines, I had one and also had my banjo bolt get loose from the up pipe install thus resulting in an oil leak. There is more attention needed to detail after going stage 2, pay attention to your intercooler tabs. That is really all the forewarning you should need to make sure your set up reliable after the install.

 

Be smart and enjoy, you will never be able to return to stock once you go stage 2. The modding is just beginning, lol, I thought for sure I wouldn't do another mod till my 60k warranty is up, now I'm not worrying about the warranty at all. If my turbo blows I will replace it with an 18g. I'm already considering picking up some headers, just worried about possibly melting my oil filter and other parts;) Once you see what your car can be, you will get the modding virus. Good luck.

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fishbone Grand Master

fishbone

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Good info to know, thanks! By tabs I assume you mean those that keep the intercooler attached.

Does the UP have to be catless? Smell issues?

If I understand it right, we've got up, down pipes, Y pipe and mufflers. Anything else that needs replacement/attention?

Shop advised me I should get both UP/DP done in the same shot since there's going to be overlapping labor otherwise. Also told me headers I can get later since they're not that much of a concern. They're good guys and they mod a lot of cars, both imports and domestics. They also have a dyno but it's 2WD.

So now basically I am keeping my eyes open for good deals on catless UP and catted DP?

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tommypenguin Mentor

tommypenguin

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Good info to know, thanks! By tabs I assume you mean those that keep the intercooler attached.

 

Indeed, you will want to monitor those tabs, if you see them start to flex out, try your best to press them back against the plastic. This issue occurs for some right away and for others a while down the line.

 

Does the UP have to be catless? Smell issues?

 

The up pipe being catless will not affect smell. If you are getting smell from the up pipe area you have a leak. You get smell from a catless downpipe because there is no cat to convert any carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. A cat in theory is supposed to convert 90% of the co to co2.

 

If I understand it right, we've got up, down pipes, Y pipe and mufflers. Anything else that needs replacement/attention?

 

Not really, just make sure you get new gaskets, if you need a catless up pipe I have an extra one its an auto speed up pipe. It needs new studs replaced which would probably be 10 bucks in studs. I would sell it for cheap seeing how I'm trying to give it away for free with the sale of my catless dp.;)

 

Shop advised me I should get both UP/DP done in the same shot since there's going to be overlapping labor otherwise. Also told me headers I can get later since they're not that much of a concern. They're good guys and they mod a lot of cars, both imports and domestics. They also have a dyno but it's 2WD.

So now basically I am keeping my eyes open for good deals on catless UP and catted DP?

 

Catless up and catted dp and you will be good, do the install for both at the same time, the exhaust shop was correct. Also when you go to the exhaust shop I would tell them to make sure no exhaust shield is rattling against the exhaust and if it is could they trim the heat shield just enough so that there is no more rattle. They may charge an extra hour of labor to do so but, not having rattles on your purty exhaust is key.

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qikslvr Mentor

qikslvr

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Just an FYI. The newer LGT's come from the factory with a cattless UP and I assume that they don't have the smell issue. The gain from an aftermarket UP is because the cat is not there thus allowing more, smoother air flow to spool the turbo. The hi-flow catted DP should take care of any smell post Turbo. Proper installation and unions that are sealed right will also prevent the smell from entering the cabin with the stock CBE.
Let's kick this pig!
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fishbone Grand Master

fishbone

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You guys rock, I'm pretty much set.

Unfortunately, lurking the trading boards, the catted dps are still a bit out of my price range and since winter is not too far off, I'd rather wait until spring. I have the money for an UP but it would be a waste and sit on a shelf for months. Should I go with a up/dp set, any known fitment issues mixing vendors? Are pretty much all aftermarket catless UPs wider diameter, or do I have to watch for that? Most I've seen are 3 inch?

With an aftermarket catted dp, do I still have to do the resistor mod for the sensor?

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hutru01 Grand Master

hutru01

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True you are! I guess I was concerned that the OP included the UP as catted and went off on an incomplete tangent. Good catch.

 

Yes, if you choose a full length downpipe one with a high flow cat, such as Cobb's, is preferable to no cat at all, IMHO. It is what I have. I've been totally catless..... not for me.

 

On the other hand a 'shorty' DP can be catless, leaving the midpipe catted with little penalty. But if considering a full CBE get a high flow cat in there someplace.

 

Right now just have a Bosal UP, Cobb Catted DP, Stock CBE

 

I just recently acquired MR Mufflers (Quad tips), I am going to have a Y pipe custom fabricated to fit. Then I will be down to 1 cat. :cool:

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hutru01 Grand Master

hutru01

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Just an FYI. The newer LGT's come from the factory with a cattless UP and I assume that they don't have the smell issue. The gain from an aftermarket UP is because the cat is not there thus allowing more, smoother air flow to spool the turbo. The hi-flow catted DP should take care of any smell post Turbo. Proper installation and unions that are sealed right will also prevent the smell from entering the cabin with the stock CBE.

 

New OEM gaskets work the best if you are mating any stock piping to aftermarket piping. Otherwise, just make sure you have the right gaskets

 

On a side note, regardless of how well your setup is sealed, if you are tuned and running a 93 Stage II or higher map, you are going to smell gas on some occasions when its hot outside or if you leave it in idle for longer than 5 minutes, etc....Its the nature of running richer than normal :rolleyes:

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