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where to place a floor jack?


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I'm surprised nobody has suggested just using cinder blocks. HA HA.

 

Here's my cinder block story (30 years ago); I jacked up my VW van and rested it on a cinder block, and proceeded to work underneath it for some time. I needed a tool that was in the house, walked in to get it, and just about when I entered the house I heard a big CRASH...I looked and the cinder block collapsed and the van crashed to the the ground. If I was still underneath it then, I wouldn't be writing this now...

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I can't get my floor jack in far enough to grab the center lift point behind the plastic skid plate in the front of the car so I have to jack up one side at a time and put the jack stands in. Its a pain in the butt.

 

+1 I always struggle with this, too, especially since you can't fit both the jack and the jackstand next to each other at the jacking point. I wanna put the jack stand right at the jacking point on the hem flange, so that means the jack needs to be somewhere else.

Seek first to understand, then to be understood.

 

In other words: SEARCH before you post!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Here's my cinder block story (30 years ago); I jacked up my VW van and rested it on a cinder block, and proceeded to work underneath it for some time. I needed a tool that was in the house, walked in to get it, and just about when I entered the house I heard a big CRASH...I looked and the cinder block collapsed and the van crashed to the the ground. If I was still underneath it then, I wouldn't be writing this now...

 

thats messed up

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Jeez, come on, if you're using jack stands, putting it up using the rear diff is not going to wreck the car. It's probably less damaging than the torsion you're putting on the frame by putting one corner up 18" higher than the rest.
Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt!
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  • 7 months later...
  • 4 months later...
Good thread. I was stationed in Korea for a year and stored my ole '98 on jack stands for a year and used the rear diff and used the wrong point up front and bent something under there and then decided to take the car to Subaru and have someone mo better trained than I show me where to do it. That worked.

 

I'm surprised nobody has suggested just using cinder blocks. HA HA.

 

 

i've been known to use tree stumps....work like a charm:cool:

I've Crashed My ROFLChopper into a LOLCanOhttp://legacygt.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=16939&dateline=1230531251
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  • 4 weeks later...

Put mine up yesterday using a 2x4 on the front frame cross member just behind the skid plate. Used another 2x4 directly on the rear diff. and placed jack stands at all 4 sides. While it might be OK, I did not like seeing the eye-beam bushings on the rear end so stretched. I actually thought I tore them, but realized later they have lateral holes (for lack of a better word) above and below the bolts securing the reaf diff.

 

What about using the cross member just in front of the rear diff? It looks almost identical to the one on the front. It looked pretty solid to me, but I thought it best to go with what others here recommended.

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Rear: Not sure but...I've been jacking my rear up multiple times for a couple years using the rear differential with no issues (I use jack stands of course once it's jacked up).

 

Front Tip: Now that my car is slightly lowered with coilovers, I just use real low ramps (not just a board), drive up on them, then I have lots of clearance to jack the front up. The ramps enable me also to throw on a couple extra 2x4s on the floor jack as I like the car high (I have extra tall jack stands) so I have room to work.

 

Question: On a side note, for the front, you guys jack at the "pad" looking part that has a bolt hole in it, right, not the frame looking cross-members? I think someone posted the actual pic from the subie tech manuals a while back.

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  • 1 month later...

Hate to bring this up again, but I'm still confused by the front crossmember.

 

Is it the piece under the engine that connects the A-Arms, or is it the piece that seems to sit under the transmission?

 

If it's the A-Arm, then the RalliTek skid plate is blocking it...

 

Thanks..

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The bolt for the skid plate goes right in the middle of it...hence why I made wood piece for my jack with a hole in it so the bolt goes into the hole, the wood contacts my skid plate which in turn contacts the brace. Make sense?
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  • 10 months later...
I find the tie rods a suitable place.

 

LMAO.

 

What about underneath the floor plans...like right underneath your seat?

 

...I've seen this epic fail on an RSX forum. Some guy put a hole in the bottom of his car. He had to have it welded back together and his car was now "salvage".

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  • 1 month later...
I can't get my floor jack in far enough to grab the center lift point behind the plastic skid plate in the front of the car so I have to jack up one side at a time and put the jack stands in. Its a pain in the butt.

 

Same here. I'm still not exactly sure where the front jack point is. You can barely see it.

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screw it, just put in the rally racing side slots. jack one side up, slide them in, same on the other side and the car could sit there for ever. I jack mine up from the rear diff and it hasn't caused a problem ever. my 97 ob sport samething and no problem. go to a nascar race and in the back shopes they do the samething, jack on rear diff and up she goes.
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Front middle jacking point

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/jack/jack-up-plate-1.jpg

The rear mid Jacking point

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/jack/rearjacking1.jpg

Jack stands

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/jack/jackstands2.jpg

Jacked up

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/jack/jacked1.jpg

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  • 3 years later...

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