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DIY Rear Deck Vent (removing back seat and deck, and venting for better bass)


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Ugh, what a ridiculous mod...IMHO.

 

ORLY........why???

 

If you're into aftermarket audio and enjoy accurately reproduced music, this mod contributes leaps and bounds. I mean everyone is entitled to their opinion, but I'm willing to bet that if you actually heard the difference, you'd change your tune on this one.

 

The acoustics of most sedans (Leggy's included) are miserable. With staging adjustments to the interior speakers, this mod, and proper processing, you can achieve truly brilliant reproduction. The listening experience is far superior.

 

To each their own I guess....

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Aftermarket audio is my career. I don't want to start a big debate over this. I think you've done good work here. I just think the time/energy could be better spent. I've heard the difference venting makes plenty of times and don't care for it. IMHO. Just my $.02. I'm sure you're curious where I'm coming from with this, so I'll give you a hint. I owe you that much after calling your mod ridiculous...maybe that was a little harsh. Anyhoo...after venting, the trunk must then be dynamated very well to compensate for added road noise (if you're really particular about accoustics like I am). Of course, this should be done whether you're venting or not. Also, I prefer systems with 8" subs inside the vehicle and one or two 10, 12, or 13" sub(s) in the trunk. The frequencies produced by larger woofers are better felt than heard (this is an opinionated comment). A larger woofer doesn't come back to center as fast as a smaller one, so it's bass waves can muck up the tighter ones in the vehicle with you. An 8" sub will accentuate the mid-bass of your 5 1/4 or 6 1/2 speakers without robbing fidelity. The larger woofer in the trunk can pick up deep frequencies an 8" will miss. These freqencies are designed to make you feel the music...not so much to be heard. I guess what I'm saying is a well dynamated trunk with a good amp and driver need not be vented. Venting is a solution to not having enough output coming from your trunk...a way to increase output. If you lack bass in the vehicle (small size mid-bass drivers only), then venting will increase the dynamic range of your sound reproduction. In a nut shell, if you want to leave speakers only inside, have a woofer in the trunk, and not do anything more, then venting can help a little I guess. I just don't like the sound of this setup. I'm extremely picky though. I could go on for a while, but I really don't want to make this a debate.
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^ It sounds like personal preference. I personally like the dynamics of my setup because not only does the bass come up through the vent deck and bounce off the back glass, it comes out of the ski hole that I leave open purposely. I like to feel the bass in addition to hearing it.

 

Also, I have my trunk lid and back of my trunk double dynamited. I basically use my entire trunk as a sub box, in a sense. But, as CSTMZR said, you would have to hear my setup before making any judgment. Every setup sounds different.

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Right on Kagen......yeah, I'm also a big fan of supplemental 8" drivers in the cabin for that area of the frequency spectrum and for their excellent transients. Unfortunately, that is often an involved process to install properly. I was in the biz for a decade (strictly custom) and used to love competing in SQ, SQ+ and SPL......ahh, the good old days. I usually went with fiberglass enclosures in the front floor panels for the extra midbass drivers. I'll see if I can dig up some pics of my old work (I'm in ChE now, but I still miss the thrill of customizing for a living).

 

Venting like this works well for the minimally custom installs where other options are unavailable and cost is a factor (ie simple installs like most people do). Plus, the size and location of the vent adds a dimension to the design and tuning stages of any system and any time you can "remove" obstrution between a driver and the listener its a good thing.

 

Cheers to a fellow customizer and there's no need for debate.........to each their own.:)

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  • 3 weeks later...
(I'm in ChE now, but I still miss the thrill of customizing for a living).

 

You wouldn't happen to mean Chemical Engineering now would you :cool:?

 

Also has anyone just tried mounting a sub in that hole?

 

On the top right of another member's post is a bar that says "Quote". Use this to quote another member's post. Also, read this:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67940

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You wouldn't happen to mean Chemical Engineering now would you :cool:?

 

 

Why, yes......yes I did. ;)

 

New game, new rules, same old pimpin'. :cool:

 

 

Also has anyone just tried mounting a sub in that hole?

 

 

There was a thread recently on the topic, there hasn't been any confirmed review on that work, in this vehicle though. Here's a link:

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67771

 

 

dragonman, are you in ChE too?

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dragonman, are you in ChE too?

Why yes, yes I am. Currently I am just a student headed for my sophomore year at NJIT. Let me just say that after a long look at my child hood it seems that I was doomed for ChE from the start.

 

What is your current status in the profession? (Please PM me the answer so that I don't cause this thread to get cluttered by discussion of how ChE rocks more than any other silly profession out there!)

 

And sorry about the quote thing before I was attempting to trim CSTMIZR's post when accidentally deleted the quote code.

 

And yes I did manage to catch F1inspiredLGT's thread on the sub in the hole but forgot where I found it... my bad on not properly searching. Now he was talking about free air subs and from what I read they don't sound as good as the "normal" ones that need an enclosure. Lets talk a slight bit-o-ChE plumbing know how here. What if I were to use like a wide enough L ot T fitting on the underside to create an enclosure? I think I can get DVW pipe at home depot at those diameters (but no sch40:spin:) Could I be able to create an enclosure like that? There will be rubber gaskets and such to keep it air-tight!

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^^PM'd on the ChE thing.

 

As for the cylindrical enclosure, there's no reason it couldn't be done. You would have to create the proper volume for the sub chosen, make sure its sealed properly and affix it to the deck. You would probably be better off with a traditional enclosure and the deck vent though because, with the former, you're stuck with an obtrusive enclosure that you can't remove without compromising the seal.

 

I've done something similar by constructing a fiberglass enclosure and it worked well because it was shaped to fit the deck and took minimal space. The piping idea would be tricky but at the same time it would be an interesting project.

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Yea Upon closer inspection of my trunk I came to realize that my Idea would go against my goal of the project which was stealth. As I posted in my thread titled Teh n00b. I think im going with a shallow mount pioneer sub which has a 3" mounting depth. So I can delete the organizer above the spare for the sub and enclosure. Now how to properly secure the enclosure there so it doesnt rattle around but still have it removeable incase of emergency?
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You can keep the storage and do this. I just finished it yesterday.

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/IMG_3039.jpg

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/IMG_3040.jpg

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/goodangle.jpg

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...That shallow Pioneer isn't a real sub! It won't perform as well or sound as good as a real subwoofer. Trust me! Put the amp in the wheel well and do something like this for the sub...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23343&highlight=fiberglass+subwoofer+enclosure

 

Just don't offend the LGT by using a Sony sub like this guy did.

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If you don't want to sacrifice space and are willing (and able) to work with fiberglass, there is plenty of room to create an enclosure in place of the foam tray for a pair of shallow 8" with a minimal rise at the rear of the trunk. You could probably go with a single 10" if you're good.

 

It would require a rather skilled hand though. ;)

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If you don't want to sacrifice space and are willing (and able) to work with fiberglass, there is plenty of room to create an enclosure in place of the foam tray for a pair of shallow 8" with a minimal rise at the rear of the trunk. You could probably go with a single 10" if you're good.

 

It would require a rather skilled hand though. ;)

 

Now you're talkin' my language.

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I was thinking along those lines. But I don't know anything about fiberglass. I could easily build it out of wood. (please dont flame I'm a total noob). Hmm for the 10 has a mounting depth of 3" and it requires a .6cuft enclosure for optimal sound. and i got this bit from crutchfield "frequency response: 20-1000 Hz"
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I would assume that it's perfectly (well....) sealed, it looks like he created a wood frame and then fiberglassed into the cavity created by the rim (using a release of course). Then attached the top board (or attached it, cut the hole and then fiberglassed through it).

 

As for the cover, I would assume that the reason he includes the replacement top is that he installed some kind of grill to allow the bass to pass through it.

 

Just guesses from the pics in the e-bay ad.

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Makes sense. I'm still not sure about the seal though. If he fiberglassed through the hole he cut or sealed the cracks REALLY well with sealant, then it could work pretty good. ...as long as there's a hole in the replacement cover. It also seems like if you put a good size ten in there (like the Alpine Type R in the pic), the excursion of the sub would require a tall grill that would have to stick through a hole. Depth is really an issue here. If it all works well like the ad leads you to believe, and especially if it is all fiberglassed (sealed well), that would be a good value for the price!
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Its definately a do-able enclosure, however upon further inspection (looking at the pics again :lol:) I'm not so sure this guy is creating a true inner volume of 0.75 cu.ft. Also, the excursion concern is moot if the grill he has on that sub is appropriate...........which means that my guess earlier of the panel having a grill is likely wrong, and we're looking at just a hole in it. Which means you would have to supply your own grill and, if that's the case, then it would likely have aesthetic problems where the carpeting covers the hole.

 

I didn't even look at the price before, but if its what he says it is, then it really is a hell of deal at $200.00.

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