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new stage 2, issues


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Called subaru..

they said it sounds like the valve gasket on the turbo side.

Said they'd need to take out the turbo if so.

This sucks ;[[

Should prolly put stock parts in then go see another dealer :p

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Another thing is I swapped to synthetic..I heard that can make the seals leak? Which seals would those be?

 

 

My friend you're getting some really lame advice.....I suggest you take pause and take a deep breath. You'll get this sorted out.

 

I've seen cases of both the cam seal and valve cover gaskets on this forum with this install. One fellow had the gasket replaced under warranty. I don't see how it's practical, however, to put the car back to stock before going to the dealer...you'll get p0w3d and end up with more headaches. My advice is to up front with them and maybe they'll let it slip through as a warranty issue.

 

You're sure the smoke/smell isn't just the PB Blaster, ect. burning off?

 

That's my advice on the oil leak. I have no clue as to the noises you report.

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Well the picture i posted up shows a stud missing in the uppipe section, maybe the rumble is the uppipe seal opening and closing under pressure? Nothing else could be rubbing, the under tray is off.

 

Theres definately an oil leak, the picture of the UP shows it covered in oil. Hopefully I can work something out with the dealer, I need a stud put in regardless.

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My friend you're getting some really lame advice.....I suggest you take pause and take a deep breath. You'll get this sorted out.

 

I've seen cases of both the cam seal and valve cover gaskets on this forum with this install. One fellow had the gasket replaced under warranty. I don't see how it's practical, however, to put the car back to stock before going to the dealer...you'll get p0w3d and end up with more headaches. My advice is to up front with them and maybe they'll let it slip through as a warranty issue.

 

You're sure the smoke/smell isn't just the PB Blaster, ect. burning off?

 

That's my advice on the oil leak. I have no clue as to the noises you report.

 

your car is too new for synthetic to cause a leak, (btw it would be internal) thats something that happens when the car has some milage an you go from dino to synthetic.

 

i think you need to read,read,read up on here theres alot of good info w/ all the answers you need grasshopper.

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Nah it was done for free, and he did everything right so far as I could see. We had it running and checked for leaks etc and couldn't see any at the time. I'm trying to read as much as I can right now about all this, just on a time constraint with getting this fixed as I'm worried it'll cause more serious long term damage.
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Since I cant get the car up on ramps today as it's POURING out

Heres one last picture...maybe someone can make something of it.

Notice the white melty crap and the oil

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8351/cimg0853sx2.jpg

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so for sure by that picture you think that's the issue?

Can i drive through the week with it? Would prefer to avoid the stealership if possible.

 

 

 

:nono:

 

 

NO! would you walk around w/ a bleeding gash all week? the oil is the cars life blood, take it to the dealer,borrow someones car or whatever.

 

just get er done man!

 

why risk more damage? :confused:

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Update:

Talked to the dealer on the phone, told them it was the valve gasket and they told me to bring it in today.

 

I bring it in...they confirm it's the gasket but say they dont have it in stock Grrr.

 

It'll be 260 + tax, not including the missing stud.

 

Still dunno what the rumble is, guessing it's cause of the missing stud

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As others have said before, the leak is likely from the little half moon seal. It could have been damaged during header/UP install if the installer wasn't careful. It is also much easier to use the bolts supplied with the MR header than to tread in studs. The easiest way to install the MR header is to get the passenger side of the header seated on the head, then get the flange on the UP section lined up with the turbo (don't forget the gasket) and just barely thread in a bolt from the top on the rear support bracket first. Then thread in the 3 bolts that hold the turbo on to the UP and lastly thread in the bolt to the front support bracket, loosening the bracket from it's mount if necessary to get it all lined up. Use anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts if you ever want them to come back off later. Then get back under the car and shove the driver's side of the header on to the head. Torque all the nuts/bolts to spec and you are done. Opinions will vary as to the sequence in which you should get everything torqued back down, but I've always done the connections to the heads first, then the turbo support brackets and lastly the turbo to UP. Never had a leak on any of my installs.
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As others have said before, the leak is likely from the little half moon seal. It could have been damaged during header/UP install if the installer wasn't careful. It is also much easier to use the bolts supplied with the MR header than to tread in studs. The easiest way to install the MR header is to get the passenger side of the header seated on the head, then get the flange on the UP section lined up with the turbo (don't forget the gasket) and just barely thread in a bolt from the top on the rear support bracket first. Then thread in the 3 bolts that hold the turbo on to the UP and lastly thread in the bolt to the front support bracket, loosening the bracket from it's mount if necessary to get it all lined up. Use anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts if you ever want them to come back off later. Then get back under the car and shove the driver's side of the header on to the head. Torque all the nuts/bolts to spec and you are done. Opinions will vary as to the sequence in which you should get everything torqued back down, but I've always done the connections to the heads first, then the turbo support brackets and lastly the turbo to UP. Never had a leak on any of my installs.

 

The problem wasn't the studs, as we put the header on with no studs, either the UP or in the passenger side head, they had to be removed to get it in there.

 

The problem was that we couldn't get the car up high enough on jack stands to thread the UP to the turbo flange. In retrospect it should have been done on a lift, and I don't have one of those.

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Dealer called. They fixed the gasket leak, however they wont put the new stud on as they have to take off the exhaust. They claim it's not leaking from there anyways (although I'm getting lowered boost).

 

They also say the rattling sound is the center pipe because of fitment issues with the MR DP.

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Dealer called. They fixed the gasket leak, however they wont put the new stud on as they have to take off the exhaust. They claim it's not leaking from there anyways (although I'm getting lowered boost).

 

They also say the rattling sound is the center pipe because of fitment issues with the MR DP.

 

 

Can you see where it's touching ? Take some pics and send them to the supplier, somethings wrong if there are two cases doing the same thing.

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