AJChenMPH Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Anyone have DIY instructions for changing the front and rear brake pads? Just trying to get a gauge of how easy it is, since I'll probably be swapping pads in and out for track days (assuming I actually get a LGT...still saving up for one ;) ). Thanks. Andy Andy | My Whips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkkwan Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Subaru brake pads have always been super-easy to swap. Basically: Remove wheel. Remove the lower of the two bolts that hold the caliper in place. Swing caliper up. Remove old pads. Install new pads. Clamp piston back to clear the pads. Put everthing back and ready to go. [Don't forget to pump brakes before driving down the road.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Total Time Per Corner To Change Brake Pads: 10 mins. Dont forget to bed the track brake pads ahead of time. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 [quote name='rkkwan']Subaru brake pads have always been super-easy to swap. Basically: Remove wheel. Remove the lower of the two bolts that hold the caliper in place. Swing caliper up. Remove old pads. Install new pads. Clamp piston back to clear the pads. Put everthing back and ready to go. [Don't forget to pump brakes before driving down the road.][/QUOTE] I've always clamped the pads before removing the calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axis008 Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 [quote name='Xenonk']Dont forget to bed the track brake pads ahead of time.[/QUOTE]How do you do that? I don't remember if I learned that in auto shop... :confused: :lol: -ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkkwan Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 [quote name='axis008']How do you do that? I don't remember if I learned that in auto shop... :confused: :lol:[/QUOTE] Brake hard from about 60mph to ~10mph about 10 times. Drive around to completely cool off the brakes. Repeat. Again, make sure you cool the brakes down completely before parking the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Serioulsy lads, I wouldnt know where to even start, I let the boys at SoAU do all of that tricky stuff for me. Dont want to have to press the peddle and have nothing there if you know what I mean. Some things are just better left to the experts. Adam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 [quote name='agctr']Serioulsy lads, I wouldnt know where to even start, I let the boys at SoAU do all of that tricky stuff for me. Dont want to have to press the peddle and have nothing there if you know what I mean. Some things are just better left to the experts. Adam.[/QUOTE] Like YOUR money. :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 [quote name='rkkwan']Brake hard from about 60mph to ~10mph about 10 times. Drive around to completely cool off the brakes. Repeat. Again, make sure you cool the brakes down completely before parking the car.[/QUOTE] Most track pads bed in starting with the 100 mph -> 0 mph about 5 to 10 times. Most autocross and really good street pads bed in starting with the 65 mph -> 10 mph bedding speeds. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 While you are doing the pads, paint the calipers to give it a nice touch. Did it on my WRX. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 [quote name='firedawgs']While you are doing the pads, paint the calipers to give it a nice touch. Did it on my WRX.[/QUOTE] rice!!!111 :p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Not rice at all! I did it on my WRX too- nothing flashy, just black calipers- looks a hell of a lot better than rudty/dusty calipers. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 [quote name='jedimaster']Not rice at all! I did it on my WRX too- nothing flashy, just black calipers- looks a hell of a lot better than rudty/dusty calipers. :cool:[/QUOTE] Joke much? Take note of DM's smileys. :p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 JM doesn't do jokes. JM is always serious :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJChenMPH Posted November 5, 2004 Author Share Posted November 5, 2004 No no no...it's gotta be: Jokes, JM does not. Serious, JM is always. :p Andy | My Whips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Patient, you must be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 :lol: Killing me, this is :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJChenMPH Posted July 21, 2008 Author Share Posted July 21, 2008 Resurrecting this from the dead...now that I actually have my LGT, I'm much more interested in this! Any special tools for this? What (or what size socket) is used to remove said bolt in post #2? Are the rears the same setup? (EDIT: at least I found the info for the fronts...14mm bolts...) And where to get those Carbotech pads Keefe likes so much? Thanks... Andy | My Whips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Pads: Can buy at www.Brakeswap.com Changing: A few notes: - Main Caliper bolts: For the rear, you need an extension I think as it's tucked in deep. I think the socket size for front and rear may be different as well. - Compressing Caliper: -- I couldn't get my new pads in without compressing the caliper pistons, so I took my calipers all the way off. You can either have someone hold the caliper, or I made a little "caliper stand" I use to set it on so I don't have to disconnect the brake line (DON'T hang the caliper by the brake line...). -- I use a wood shim and a large C-clamp to compress the pistons. - Brake quiet: I use, but not sure it's that critical. - Bleed valves: I always bleed a little after changing if I'm compressing the caliper. Maybe this is unnecessary, but it only takes a couple minutes. I used small box end wrenches for these (I think 10 mm) and surgical tubing to drain into a bottle. To bleed correctly, you need someone to help you by pressing the brake pedal (unless you get a pressure bleeder bottle contraption...I use one). - Make sure and bed in the pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 I find it easiest to compress the caliper before removing any bolts. Pull the caliper outward and you'll compress the piston(s) as the caliper slides outboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmp Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 I find it easiest to compress the caliper before removing any bolts. Pull the caliper outward and you'll compress the piston(s) as the caliper slides outboard. lemme try to understand - you just grab the caliper, while it's still bolted in place, and pull the back it of towards you (as you face the rotor, etc), and it collapses? No 'relief screws' etc, to adjust first? Neat trick, if I can figure it out. Thanks darin SOLD | '06 spec.B - VF52/AVO/740cc/Up/Down | 238awhp | 50-80mph 3.1 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Yes, and it doesn't take all that much force. You will be pushing fluid back out of the caliper into brake lines, and you may need to watch the level in the brake fluid reservoir. You might want to attach tubing and loosen the bleed screw while you do this, especially if you plan to bleed immediately afterwards. I'm not a big fan of pushing fluid backwards. What kind of crud are you pushing back towards the ABS unit, etc.? --Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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