mpetty Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 OK, I am *finally* just about ready to make the jump to stage 2. I have a Cobb Catted DP, an STi uppipe, a set of OEM gaskets, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Copper. (Oh, and let's not forget the TDC map!) I was going to get the Crucial Stage 8 locking retainer kit, but they are out of stock and probably won't be available before I do my install. I really don't have time to do this job two or three times - other than using the Crucial kit and the Permatex what can I do to make sure I am not going to have those exhaust leaks that seem to crop up so often? Thanks, Morgan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Use a torque wrench and torque to spec! Start at the furthest part away from the turbo and torque each piece moving towards the turbo and skip the Permatex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 the way i do it is, after i asseble the headers and UP loosely, i tighten the bolts to the UP/header connection first since that is often the connection that leaks since its only s 2 bolt flage connection. then i tighten the UP to turbo connection, and finally the header to head connections. The DP/Turbo connection i tighten in a star pattern, like you would with wheel lugs. BTW, i find the torque spec to be BS. if the gaskets compress any, then you end up being below spec. I tighten those bolts by hand harder. and the UP to Header bolts i use a 3/8" impact gun. I neve had a problem with them commming loose nor have i ever had a problem taking them off later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 I add a few in-lbs to the listed spec and that feels right to me. Heat cycle at least once if not twice, tightening to torque spec. Keep heat cycling until they don't turn anymore according to your torque wrench. I think I set my wrench to just uner 30in lbs if I remember correctly. I used this for most of the connections. After 1 heat cycle it turned a tiny bit then clicked again. after another heat cycle, it clicked right away... meaning it is still at torque spec. Check the exhaust informational sticky for torque specs. use stock gaskets and nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Stock nuts and bolts, stock gaskets, stock torque specs, follow the service manual. No need to retighten or consult a psysic Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 use OEM gaskets seriously Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 ^+10000000 copper gaskets compress too much and cause leaks. I never had a problem with the stock gaskets. Im some cases, you can even reuse the old ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpetty Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 I add a few in-lbs to the listed spec and that feels right to me. Heat cycle at least once if not twice, tightening to torque spec. Keep heat cycling until they don't turn anymore according to your torque wrench. I think I set my wrench to just uner 30in lbs if I remember correctly. I used this for most of the connections. After 1 heat cycle it turned a tiny bit then clicked again. after another heat cycle, it clicked right away... meaning it is still at torque spec. Check the exhaust informational sticky for torque specs. use stock gaskets and nothing else. How do you heat cycle the uppipe if you have to take the DP off to get at the nuts and/or bolts - do you just take the DP off again each time? This has always confused me a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 heat cycle= drive the car and get it hot. then let it sit and cool down. then, retighten bolts. the importnt bolts to retighten as i mention above are the headers to UP flange bolts. you dont need to take the DP off to get to those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpetty Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 heat cycle= drive the car and get it hot. then let it sit and cool down. then, retighten bolts. the importnt bolts to retighten as i mention above are the headers to UP flange bolts. you dont need to take the DP off to get to those. Ahhh.... Ten-four! That makes sense. Sounds like OEM gaskets and common sense, FTW! Thanks guys, looking forward to some Stage II goodness! Morgan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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