TwoPointFive-I Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 A local mechanic shop wants 230 to replace the rear pads. Is this a fair price? His labor is 75/hour so he's charging me 155 for the pads. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Holy Smokes! Is he going to turn the rotors? Or bleed the brakes? Or check/change the parking brake shoes? If it is only brake pad replacement then I would say this is too much money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 rip off do it yourself in 0.5 hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 you only need to unscrew 1 bolt and the caliper lifts up. pull old pads, put in new pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 yup, the easiest job you could find on the car easier than changing oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddr7 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 is it really that easy? How r the fronts? Who needs tickets to the gun show? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 No, it's not that easy. You have to push the cylinders in to get the new ones to fit. That adds like 5 minutes to the job. 8^) The fronts are the same. On some cars, the rears are more difficult because of the parking brake, but on ours, the parking brake is a completely different brake (drum inside the rotor) so it makes it easy to replace the caliper pad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOXRPWR Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 just about as easy. the only "special tool" you might need is a device that jacks the pistons back out to make enough room for the thicker, new pads. you could probably pick up one at Pep Boys for $20 bucks. then you could use it for the life of the car. heck, you could start changing your buddies brake pads and charge THEM $75 bucks to do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOXRPWR Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 I haven't purchased stock pads in A LONG TIME (I dont think I ever did) But they've got to be cheaper than $155 bucks. I can buy Hawk HPS or HP+ pads for my big brake kit for way under $100 bucks a set. Come on guys, who knows the cheapest source for pads? And why by stock pads in the first place? Upgrade to some Bobcats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaptan Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Special tool? Just use a C clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOXRPWR Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 ^^^ wise guy. but smart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 No, it's not that easy. You have to push the cylinders in to get the new ones to fit. That adds like 5 minutes to the job. Yes, you have to push back the caliper pistons. I take piece of wood, place against the piston(s) and just press it back with my hands. Does not require that much effort to push it back. Don't forget to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before doing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 I haven't changed the pads yet on the LGT, but I've used an 8 inch C-clamp before on other cars. The standard caliper design used on the LGT doesn't seem to have changed much in the last twenty years. Here is a video showing how easy it is to change the pads. It is for the Brembos but the concept is the same. http://www.hspn.tv/?videoid=44&catid=1 I know that on some cars, they use oddball caliper design requires a special tool to retract the cylinder. However, this is not the case for Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Yes, you have to push back the caliper pistons. I take piece of wood, place against the piston(s) and just press it back with my hands. Does not require that much effort to push it back. Don't forget to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before doing this. Or just turn the used brake pad over and use that instead of the piece of wood Man, it's getting easier and easier! If you want to get the brake rotors turned (usually adds like $30 if you just bring the rotors to a shop yourself) it adds 1 more bolt to turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoPointFive-I Posted December 2, 2006 Author Share Posted December 2, 2006 Thanks for all the replies. Anybody know of a post for this procedure. Also what are the best pads for the stock setup on the legacy wagon rears? I know I definetly want ceramics or better. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoPointFive-I Posted December 2, 2006 Author Share Posted December 2, 2006 Also, The steering wheel shimmies when applying the brakes around 55-65 to slow it down. Can the pads be a culprit or do you think it may need new rotors. How to check the rotors for warping?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joon525 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Also, The steering wheel shimmies when applying the brakes around 55-65 to slow it down. Can the pads be a culprit or do you think it may need new rotors. How to check the rotors for warping?? That is a clear sign of warped rotors. You may not need new rotors if they are within spec to be resurfaced. Some people don't like to resurface rotors at all and just buy new ones. I resurface them once and then toss them the next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Also, The steering wheel shimmies when applying the brakes around 55-65 to slow it down. Can the pads be a culprit or do you think it may need new rotors. How to check the rotors for warping?? More than likely, the pulsating you are feeling in the wheel is from the crappy, stock brake pads leaving deposits on the rotors. How many miles are on your car? Is your car is under warranty? The dealer will turn the rotors (and replace pads)under warranty. I had the dealer turn the rotors and then went home and installed some Bobcats. 10x better braking performance now. 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 more than likely, the pulsating you are feeling in the wheel is from the crappy. stock break pads leaving deposits on the rotors. How many miles are on your car? Is your car is under warranty? The dealer will replace the pads and turn the rotors under warranty. If you are out of warrenty, post up in your regional forum. I would do the job for you for a 12pk of Guiness. Really? For that price I might have you do it instead of getting my hands dirty in this cold weather , what are you doing Tuesday night :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoPointFive-I Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 I went to the dealership to get the shimmy checked out. Its under warranty so why not. Tech said that the front rotors were fine and that the pads were good for another 10k. The rear pads on the other hand, as I knew, had to be replaced and the rotors had to be cut down. I told him that I was aware of an issue with the pads on the legacys causing deposits to warp the rotors and should be covered under warranty. He said that the pads were maintenance issue and that I was responsible for the cost of the repair. It came out to 250 for pads/cut rotors. This was 20 more than what the local shop wanted just for the pads. I ended doing it because I just couldn't live with the warped rotors any longer... Does the problem with the warped rotors also apply to the rears or is it just the fronts?? f so do I have any recourse? Also, bear in mind that I have the 2.5i not the GT so my rotors up front are not as big.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 I had both rear rotors and pads replaced under warranty because I was concerned about several deepening grooves on my RR rotor. The Subie tech told the write up lady to order two rotors and pads for both sides without me even asking to replace both sides. I would contact Subaru at 1-800-Subaru3 and complain - your pads should be covered. -Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Pads are not covered unless they are below a certian thickness due to wear. so if the teck said the pad had some life left on them, then they are not covered till they wear out more. its stupid, but thats the way it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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