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Electrical Boost Gauge installed, got a question (56k=never)


t0ad

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Alright, so I got my boost gauge installed a little while ago. It's the ProSport electrical model. The hardest part of the install? Shoving the friggin' tubing onto all the little connectors! I do have one question though, it seems to read boost spot-on compared to the AP hooked up to the OBD port (right around 15psi in 3rd), but it's vacuum readings are way off. Like, the AP will say -9 to -11 at idle, but the gauge will be reading -20 to -30. Any ideas on what the culprit might be there? It's not really a huge deal to me since it reads fine into boost, but still. Anyway, here's a little picture documentary of the journey.

 

First, the merchandise:

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall01.jpg

 

The merchandise installed:

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall02.jpg

 

 

The big hole in my dash:

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall03.jpg

 

Where I tapped into to get my readings:

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall04.jpg

 

Where I went through the firewall at:

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall05.jpg

 

The boost sensor (I mounted it inside the dash to the right of the trip computer/cubby assembly):

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall06.jpg

 

Lovely mess of wiring all hooked up and ready to go (FYI, I tapped into trip computer's yellow with red stripe wire for power to the red and white wires on the gauge, and the black with yellow stripe wire for a ground):

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall07.jpg

 

All done!

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall08.jpg

 

And with no flash:

 

http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/boostgaugeinstall09.jpg

 

And finally, the sweep. http://softwarepirate.net/pics/car/newgauge.avi

 

This concludes your large post full of large pictures. Thanks again to CasopoliS for everything.

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Love the cubbypod man... I don't get to see many pics of them installed but it just puts a smile to my face.

Me too. Wish you were making more of them. :(

 

 

PS--to the thread starter, you might want to get some zip ties on that T fitting where you tapped in to the boost line.

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Me too. Wish you were making more of them. :(

 

 

PS--to the thread starter, you might want to get some zip ties on that T fitting where you tapped in to the boost line.

 

Yeah, don't worry about that, I ended up putting zipties on all the connections I made. Although, with the force that was required to get that tubing on the fittings, I don't think it would ever come off regardless!

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  • 4 months later...
Just-won-a-cubbypod-in-the-donation-thread-gonna-do-this-install-need-these-instructions-subscribe

I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal.

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  • 11 months later...
Quick question, how does the cubby hole and vents pop out without taking anything else out of the dash? I always assumed the radio would have to be removed in order to get at the cubby.

 

Basically, you just need to use a small screwdriver in one of the corners of the vent/cubby insert and gently pull it out. After that, there's just a few clips all around the side you need to pull out. There's some good instructions for doing that on Casopolis' cubbypod site here: http://www.casopolis.com/install/Cubbypod_I_Installation.pdf.

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Basically, you just need to use a small screwdriver in one of the corners of the vent/cubby insert and gently pull it out. After that, there's just a few clips all around the side you need to pull out. There's some good instructions for doing that on Casopolis' cubbypod site here: http://www.casopolis.com/install/Cubbypod_I_Installation.pdf.

 

Thanks! Beat me to it.

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isn't the point of a remote sending unit so you DON'T have to run a vaccum line through the firewall?

 

I'm about to do a boost gauge, and I had figured on mounting the sending unit in the engine bay and just running wires through the firewall. That's the right way to do it, right?

 

Ben

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  • 8 months later...

here's a pic of how i went through the firewall with just the electrical wires. the diamond shaped rubber grommet below the sender does not need to be harmed at all and dumps the wires in a good place between the fusebox and cubby.

 

Here's the wiring that worked for me, no oem wiring harmed, ended up very clean and tucked in nicely with some tape/zips:

 

From a posted suggestion, I used a buss 'add-an-accessory' fuse tap ($5 @ Advance) that allows you to independently fuse-protect the gauge, 'solderless' joiners ($3), standard tri-color spool of auto wire ($3), and a spare 10A atm fuse.

 

the green wire from the gauge connects to the white wire from the sender.

the black wires from both sender and gauge connect to the gold bolt left of the steering wheel (you can crimp both into a 'u' or 'o' connector for this).

the red/white wires from the gauge and the red wire from the sender all go to the fuse device placed in cig lighter circuit #20 in the panel.

i like white full time, so just taped the end of the orange wire.

 

last pic shows how i ran the wires/connector to the back of the gauge through the slit that is in the top/back of the cubby without any alteration (just takes bit of help from a screwdriver to wedge it through).

gauge fits in there nice & snug with the rubber carpet removed; i figure i'll make some sort of pod/cover for it someday just for asthetics.

 

nothing original here, just thought it'd be good to have it in one place -- thanks to all who posted gauge install tips.

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  • 1 month later...

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