turboman38 Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Ok here is the deal. I have had my car in twice for the common "studder" problem some of us have between 2 and 3000 rpms. The first time they reflashed the computer and it got better for about a week and then came back to be just as bad. Took it a second time and they said they could not duplicate. So I said find I will reflash the computer with stage 1 from Cobb. Problem is just as bad with stage 1. When it's under full throttle there is not a problem but normal driving it always studders and I just feel a new car should NOT do that. It also will idle rough and make the car shake although the tach does not reflect this. Anybody had this problem and been able to solve it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Yes, most of us have had this problem at different levels of severity. It sounds like you have it quite severe. Do a search for studdering, hesitation, or stutter. The v 1.16 maps are the smoothest for the cobb accessport, but in some cases people had to have their ECU replaced. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradlgt21 Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Tons of people are having the same problem. I have TDC's map and it helped alot. Went away completely for 4 months. It is now coming back some but at no degree that it used to. I am going to stage 2 with a protune soon so maybe they will see something on my datalog that will help fix it even more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b4wantab Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 There seems to be a problem with the linearity of the drive by wire system. I am unsure of how the pot on the gas peddle is set-up. But if it isn't linear it is going take some creative programming for overcome. Don't really know about it first-hand but I have been following a few threads about it on the DBW cars. Peace, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Effin Ponderous Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 ok, this is gonna sound stupid at first, but shut off your cell phone. Oh wait, it will sound stupid the second time too:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 at stage 2....doesn't a catless up pipe help prevent it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 ^ Unknown....whether if it's coincidence, or just happens to be that magical X-factor that particular LGT needed to solve the problem, or if it is a combination of that particular component plus others (including aftermarket EM and/or tune), which is the "cure." --- Many have postulated many different causes - as well as many different "solutions" of differing levels of success. To-date, no one really knows what causes it, nor what truly "cures" it. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Tons of people are having the same problem. I have TDC's map and it helped alot. Went away completely for 4 months. It is now coming back some but at no degree that it used to. I am going to stage 2 with a protune soon so maybe they will see something on my datalog that will help fix it even more.The map just doesn't allow you to drive slow. If you have a good control over your right foot and you manage to put in only about 2-3% throttle input, you will see it happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 My LGT got much easier to drive smoothly after my electronic throttle body was replaced under warranty due to cold-weather stalling issues last winter. It turned out the throttle plate was sticking closed, so it caused a very non-linear response when it opened (too far). I would get a lot of stutter when going from no throttle to light/moderate throttle, especially in the 2300-3000rpm range. It also made it very difficult to start out smoothly at low RPMs because a little throttle would spike the RPMs. Now, if I am driving mellowly in traffic, 1000rpm starts are no problem at all. Before, driving any time in 1st gear was very erratic due to the nonlinear throttle response. That is vastly improved now. I've said this before: I wonder how many LGTs are out there suffering from a similar throttle plate issue, maybe not as severe as mine was, but enough to cause stuttering and lack of smoothness. If it wasn't for some cold-weather stalling while idling up to a stop sign, that was repeatable enough for the dealer, this never would have been found and fixed for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 My LGT got much easier to drive smoothly after my electronic throttle body was replaced under warranty due to cold-weather stalling issues last winter. It turned out the throttle plate was sticking closed, so it caused a very non-linear response when it opened (too far). I would get a lot of stutter when going from no throttle to light/moderate throttle, especially in the 2300-3000rpm range. It also made it very difficult to start out smoothly at low RPMs because a little throttle would spike the RPMs. Now, if I am driving mellowly in traffic, 1000rpm starts are no problem at all. Before, driving any time in 1st gear was very erratic due to the nonlinear throttle response. That is vastly improved now. I've said this before: I wonder how many LGTs are out there suffering from a similar throttle plate issue, maybe not as severe as mine was, but enough to cause stuttering and lack of smoothness. If it wasn't for some cold-weather stalling while idling up to a stop sign, that was repeatable enough for the dealer, this never would have been found and fixed for me. This is not the issue that everyone describes. If you park in a garage you can hear your throttle plate with the ignition on, should be apparent if it's sticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBHMAN Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Just as an FYI, I also have installed TDC's stage 1 map, and the studdering does reduce itself significantly...but not entirely. I have noticed that the "smoothness" of the engine, i.e. studdering, rough idle, and rough engine operation at low RPM's is worse when it is hot and humid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinet Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Turbos have trouble compressing hot humid air in comparison to cold, dry air (hence the popularity of CAIs!). I never had a stutter with this car, at stage 0, 1, TDC stage 1, Cobb stage 2, TDC stage 2.... My wife's 05 MT OBXT had stutter early on, but it seems to either be intermittent or has resolved after about 12K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeBred Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 i have what seems to be the same problem. I have put shortblocks and a new turbo in under warranty and have had it to two different dealers. i have a 3'' perrin cat delete pipe i took out for the stock cats because they said it would fix my problem. didn't work so i cleaned my mass air flow sensor and it helped a little bit. can i put my perrin pipe back in or will it blow the motor again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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