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Looking for DownPipe w/cat attaching to Mid pipe???


sashadg1

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All the Down pipes I see replace the the Stock Mid pipe and Third cat well. The other option I see out there is the Shorty Down pipe without Cat the attaches to Stock Mid pipe leaving the Third Cat.

 

I need a Shorty Down Pipe replacing the the Stock Cat with a SubStrate Converter that will attach to the stock midpipe. My Fabricator is building my exhaust from the Stock Down Pipe Back. He will replace the Mid pipe and Third Cat with just 3" piping.

 

Is there such a thing out there???

 

Also if one of these guys makes one (Rallitek, Cobb, PDE, Autospeed, Pltek) will it attach to 3" Flange or will my fabricator have to hack their Downpipe end and fit it with a 3" Flange???

 

What do I do??

 

Thanks Scott

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Why not just get a 3" catted Down Pipe that replaces the mid pipe and just have the exhaust fabricated to match up to that? I don't understand what the difference would be.

 

+1

 

Cobb and I believe Lachute both have downpipes with optional high flow cat's in the 3rd cat position. Or you can get the Crucial shorty and their midpipe with HFC.

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The reason is money, buying a shorty DP opposed to full length DP (replacing DP and Midpipe) is simply less expensive. I have seen close to $150.00 less expensive, at least the shorty pipe w/o cat. My fabricator is not charging me any extra to build from the stock DP end (Stock Shorty DP End)

which would include removal of the third Cat. So if I can find a Shorty DP w/ Cat, for less money I'm ahead. I have 5 kids and minimal funds for upgrades. So every dollar counts on this project. I'm in California so I have to have a Cat, if the police check and see no Cat the will impound the car and slap a major Fine on me.

 

Question replacing the DP CAT with a Substrate Cat and deleting the third cat, will this not give me a check engine light???? I would think it would and if so what do I do about it?

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The reason is money, buying a shorty DP opposed to full length DP (replacing DP and Midpipe) is simply less expensive. I have seen close to $150.00 less expensive, at least the shorty pipe w/o cat. My fabricator is not charging me any extra to build from the stock DP end (Stock Shorty DP End)

which would include removal of the third Cat. So if I can find a Shorty DP w/ Cat, for less money I'm ahead. I have 5 kids and minimal funds for upgrades. So every dollar counts on this project. I'm in California so I have to have a Cat, if the police check and see no Cat the will impound the car and slap a major Fine on me.

 

Question replacing the DP CAT with a Substrate Cat and deleting the third cat, will this not give me a check engine light???? I would think it would and if so what do I do about it?

 

Just get a catless shorty. Virtually no cop knows to look for the stock 2nd cat. They will look under the car to see if the main cat is there. If you retain the stock midpipe that will do the trick from a roadside visual standpoint. If you want to be even more stealth, just weld on the stock cat heatshields on to your new shorty DP and you'll be set. Couple that with an STi catless uppipe and no one will be the wiser.

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Well I thought about doing that, wasn't sure about the CEL being thrown because of the Cat position and the O2 sensors. My fabricator is getting rid of the Midpipe and Stock third Cat. I could have him weld on a Carsound HFC in place of that third Cat. I guess I'm correct that no one make a Catted Shorty DP?

 

Regarding the O2's, What Cat are working off of??? 1 2 or 3 or 1 and 2 and not 3.

 

And what about the CEL's from removing the Cats...???

THanks Scott

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^ I'd actually imagine that with the rear O2 sensor placed in the stock location and the cat now located in the #2 position, he should pretty much be able to avoid at least P0420. P2069? That's gonna be the kicker, I'd imagine.

 

---

 

But honestly, I can't imagine why you'd want to go with a #2-position cat, even a high-flow one. Cobb's off-the-shelf "Stage II" maps won't be able to be used safely, and even with a custom/semi-custom tune, you're still looking at more power restrictions than if you ditched the cat at this location.

 

I'd go for brother Boostjunkie's suggestions - both in terms of power potential as well as for visual inspection.

 

And as for the CELs? Aftermarket EM reflashes and/or "hard" fixes (such as that mentioned by brother bmorrisj) will handle them for you. The latter seems to be vehicle-specific and somewhat variable (ie. "your" LGT versus "my" LGT), but the former is "universal."

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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