Beanboy Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Anybody carry a canoe with their LGT wagon? Want to test fit and see if I can get away with the foam block solution. Pain that it is easier to carry a canoe with a car without roof racks... If the width of the canoe doesn't jive with the width of the roof rails, will have to get cross bars and canoe-specific carrier. Since a canoe is 75+ pounds and can really move around at highway speeds, are there any cross bar/canoe carrier combos that are especially good versus others? Yes, been reading up on the roof rack threads... Thanks! -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rommel Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 I know Dan (Patagonian GT) carried kayaks on his wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 I'm using a Thule rack, but have no issues carrying a pair of 68lb kayaks + gear inside. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/dragon.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/lakelure.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTFan 88 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 I'd be very hesitant to carry a canoe on your roof with just the foam pads. You could definitely crank it down (with 2 straps and a bow and stern line) to keep it from moving around alot in the highway wind, but you risk denting your roof, the tighter you fasten it. What kind of canoe is it? Material? Width? It is true you might get lucky with the width and be able to rest it right on the roof rails, but still doesn't seem like you'll be able to get a nice solid hold (to prevent side to side movement of the boat on the roof). I'd go with the square Thule design. I have the Subie rack (made by Mt. Blanc - Thule square cross bar style), and I've carried 2 17 ft kayaks on it and I've also carried a 16 ft poly canoe on it multiple times. Highway (80 mph), and even 35 mph on winding dirt roads - no issues. Also, both Thule and Yakima sell a set of 4 pegs that go on the outer edge of the cross bars to help hold the canoe in place, so it won't float side to side. (Of course, if you tie the boat to the roof properly, you don't really even need them.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Beast... Old Town 169...76 pounds. Old family beater (1987 cavalier) was fine with foam blocks on the roof... Bummer about the new ultra thin sheetmetal of today, along with roof rails interfering with the one thing I've carried on a car roof, hehe. Last car had similar issues with rails... Canoe was just a bit wider, ended up placing the gunnel on one side inside of one rail, other was on an angle. Gonna test fit tomorrow and see how everything lines up. Thanks for the advice... Would a canoe system also work with a kayak if jury-rigged a bit? Thinking hull resting between pegs/l-brackets then just cranked down? Would only be carrying one, not two... -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTFan 88 Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Sounds like an OT Discovery. 16'9" and 85lbs. Their website says it's width is 37" at the widest spot (middle) and 35" at the 4" waterline... Yes, you can certainly transport a kayak using a canoe set up. I've done it both right side up and upside down. Either way, just sitting on the crossbars (no kayak carrier or attachment). If you tie the boat to the bars properly, you don't even need any kind of pegs to keep the boat from moving in the wind. The key is to tie the boat to the cross bars just ouside of the place where the boat sits on the bars. A good knot can act as a great anchor. Even though Thule and Yakima sell various canoe and kayak attachments, you don't really need any of the boat-specific attachments. All you really need are a set of cross bars to lay the boat on and to secure it to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 It is indeed an Old Town... Hmm, wonder if back in the day (canoe is from the early 90s) they weighed it minus seats... Surprised it has gained 9 pounds over the years. Will post again tomorrow evening sometime... -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Well, tried the canoe tonight, and the blocks would be half-on/half-off the rails... Since I plan on getting a kayak anyway, and that isn't going to work without cross bars, figure I might as well step-up and buy some. Thinking the Subaru ones, seem to be a fair bit cheaper, and really have no need for more complex attachments for skis/bikes (they go inside). https://www.subarugenuineparts.com got my order, $113 shipped seems to be a great price. Thanks again folks! -B -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTFan 88 Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Good move! I think you'll be quite happy with them. I use them all the time to move my outdoor toys and other random stuff and they've been great. The best part is that it only takes like 10 seconds to put them on and take them off (unlike some rack systems I've used in the past). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 Woohoo! Really nice and easy going on. Going to go for a drive on the highway tonight and see how loud they are, I did put the inserts in. Yeah, there is a lot of plastic, but they are rated for the weight I need, were cheap ($111 delivered) and come on and off really easily. Getting the boating itch now, hehe. http://www.stinkyteapot.com/rack.jpg -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallispec Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 looks good - so how loud are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 Not loud at all... While I was cruising around doing some datalogging, did get up to highway speed. I know there is a little more noise, but I doubt a passenger would notice. -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Nice, Beanboy! I like the Subie bars' low profile. I already had a bunch of round-bar Yakima accessories, so that's what we went with, but I do admire the OEM bars. Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 I'd be very hesitant to carry a canoe on your roof with just the foam pads. You could definitely crank it down (with 2 straps and a bow and stern line) to keep it from moving around alot in the highway wind, but you risk denting your roof, the tighter you fasten it. What kind of canoe is it? Material? Width? It is true you might get lucky with the width and be able to rest it right on the roof rails, but still doesn't seem like you'll be able to get a nice solid hold (to prevent side to side movement of the boat on the roof). I'd go with the square Thule design. I have the Subie rack (made by Mt. Blanc - Thule square cross bar style), and I've carried 2 17 ft kayaks on it and I've also carried a 16 ft poly canoe on it multiple times. Highway (80 mph), and even 35 mph on winding dirt roads - no issues. 7" +1 on the above, I use Thule square cross bars w/ foam block. Carry 2 17" 4" kayacks with no problem! Iv'e seen many canadian photos with even larger canoes. Also, both Thule and Yakima sell a set of 4 pegs that go on the outer edge of the cross bars to help hold the canoe in place, so it won't float side to side. (Of course, if you tie the boat to the roof properly, you don't really even need them.) "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 So I take back what I said about being able to hear it. Shutdown the laptop and cruised on the highway. Can't really hear it at all, and that includes cracking the windows open at 70+ mph. -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Se2002 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Sorry about the poor quality pic, its a picture of a picture. Not a Legacy either, but related. I used the 48" Yakima crossbars, and universal rail mounts. The boat is a ~17' Oldtown Camper weighing 59 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Nice transportation combo you have there Se2002... What are you (and others) using between the rails and the canoe? Have the foam block kit, assume I can just use those to protect both and once tied town, help prevent any little movement. -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Se2002 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Thanks Beanboy. I am not using anything between the rail and gunwale. She's tied down with a "five-rounder" slip knot at each corner. It's tight enough that if you move the Deck of the canoe, the whole car shakes without any play. My rails are spread apart so that I use the Aft Thwart and Bow Seat as tie down points to keep it steady. Oh, and it 16' not 17' as I said above. I wish it would cool down a little, its been in the upper 90's, too hot for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 Was curious about mileage, so I kept them on while hiking in NH this weekend. Average economy went from 17.1 with 46 miles of city driving to 23.1 at the 206 mile mark. On the way home, hit 27 mpg average after 145 miles on pure highway driving downhill outta the mountains with them on. Not too shabby. -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Well, finally carried the canoe on the ol' roof. Some movement with 18-wheeler air at 75 mph, but it worked great. Mileage on the highway was in the 23 mpg range, so a four mpg drop or so. http://www.stinkyteapot.com/canoe.jpg -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Nice! "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 OK, where is the Thule spoiler? "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Kay? What is this talk about Thule? -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKB_SATX Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Beanboy: I understand the need for the stabilizing straps you have in front, but I'd worry that they'll eventually leave marks on the paint on the bumper and possibly even a bit on the hood if they flap enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 I've carried two 13.5ft kayaks on my Thule rack over a 2k mile road trip, including running Rt.129 aka 'The Dragon' in NC/TN with no front or rear straps, just a pair over the centers of each. No worries whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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