Johan Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 I have been thinking about going to stage 2 for a while now and I have been reading “you have to pay to play” and I was wondering what problems people have been having with stage 2 on an automatic transmission. What issues should I be worried about other than leaks which can be prevented by proper installation and new gaskets…I think? If I do decide to go ahead and do stage 2, I will be buying a Cobb downpipe with cats and a Cobb uppipe. I am kind of confused about which uppipe I should buy? I don’t understand the whole deal with the resistors people use and the EGT. Any comment and advice on issues regarding stage 2 would be greatly appreciated… My understanding of what is needed is 10mm 14mm and O2 socket. Also, what vendor should I go with because I do not want to pay for shipping from Cobb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Hey Johan... I'll try to answer your questions the best I can... I am Stg. 2 with my 5MT... but I don't think it really matters with the tranny. There aren't any other serious issues besides getting everything buttoned up tight. You will want to fasten some of your vacuum/boost tubing ... since it has a tendancy to blow off the fittings at Stg. 2 boost levels. The main one is the blue "T" fitting you might have read about. It is directly underneath the intercooler.... The resistor for the EGT is to fool the ECU into seeing that the EGT is within range. With an uppipe swap... you really don't care about the uppipe EGT any longer (it is mainly used to protect the up pipe cat from overheating). The resistor locks the ECU EGT temperature reading at ~1200 F (if I remember correctly) and will prevent a CEL. I have been Stg. 2 for 5 months now with no issues whatsoever. Hope this helps you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 We have package prices at www.tdctuning.com for what you are looking for. We could set you up with a Cobb AP UP and DP at a special price. THe 5EAT will hold up just fine with this power, infact the stage II 5EAT actually closes the gap on the straight line performance between the MT and the AT at stock form. We can also provide you with a nice kick in a TDC protune map that is above and beyone the cobb cookie cutter maps that come on the AP. This map we provide would tune you for your mods and remap your throttle position so you get much better response. Let me know if you are interested, I will personally work with you to design a package that suits you. Joe PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 mccory,So you haven't hear of any major problems that have caused people with an auto to "pay in order to play"? I just want to keep this car for awhile and not have any problems.What exactly is the "vacuum/boost tubing"? ... maybe I will understand better as I am doing the installs.So do you just recommend getting the Cobb up pipe with no EGT bung because the one that has the EGT bung is essentially just a resistor with no function on actually indicating the temp/overheating? (the resistor is a 2.2K ohm correct?)Thanks for the help... I hope we can keeep in touch in the weeks to come when I acutally do the install.-Johan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Subscribe:icon_bigg Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM 525 Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 The stock EGT sensor in the stock uppipe is there to keep the cat from overheating. When the probe reads beyond a certain temp it will put the ECU into a "limp" mode. This prevents the cat from getting overheated and breaking apart. The turbine would ingest all these bits and it would not be pretty. With an aftermarket uppipe there is NO cat to break apart therefore no worries. The resistor is put there to prevent the CEL that the AP does not supress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTGT Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I'm thinking about stage 2 also. Only worries I have are putting too much stress on the auto tranny and warranty issues. I'm kinda putting it off by putting aside money for Cobb's stage 2 pack. (AP w/ TBE) Since that isn't coming out for months maybe years haha, i have something to look foward to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 yeah, I dont wanna pay extra for the catted DP. but then again, I cant go with out one... Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 I think the tranny should be ok as long as your not consistently taking the revs to the redline. Any one else have any thoughts on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTGT Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 hmm i usually have a few redline runs a week (But i generally baby it). I dont think there is anyway to know if the trans will hold up until people have a lot more mileage on them 40k+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 It will hold up, stage II isn't that much more strain. On a stack VF40 I woulnd't worry at all. Putting 20g on then it could get questionable but I still say it is ok PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD-Turbo Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I’ve had my 5AT through stage 1, 2, some more mods, protune, hard driving, etc. for about 10 months now. So far I’ve had no problems. I’d recommend keeping it stock for a while (I went with a year). If anything may be defective from the factory, you want it to break while you still have a full warranty. As the saying goes, you have to pay to play. If you modified it, and it broke, you probably will not be able to get that covered as a warranty fix. From what I’ve seen, if your car is in good shape, you use good parts, and maintain it properly; it should be able to hold up to well over 300 whp. For the AT, a good safety mod is an ATF cooler. Nice addition for $50. I’m going to do a drain and fill each year on the tranny with the factory fluid. In year four, I’ll probably get a full transmission flush. Totally stock, the LGT is a fast car, but it always fun to improve things a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLo Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 We have package prices at www.tdctuning.com for what you are looking for. We could set you up with a Cobb AP UP and DP at a special price. I'm in the same boat too - considering "Stage 2." Questions: 1. I really want to keep everything completely legal and able to pass the Smog/Sniffer and OBDII New York State tests after 2 years. Does your packge DP have the cat? I guess this is referred to as "catted" as opposed to "catless." Correct me if I'm wrong. 2. Along with your package, I want to add a cat-back mild exhaust in a few months that doesn't "fart" a lot of noise but gives a slight increase in sound along with a few more ponies. Will that be compatible? Any exhaust reccomendations? 3. With the 2 mods above, do you think I'll be close to 300 HP at the crank? I see some dyno charts on your Web site but they're so small can't read them. I'm really more interested in a) higher low-end output b) flatter torque curve across the rev range c) utter reliability and safety on pump (usually 91) gas and d) maintain mileage when driving normally. Am I out of my mind? Thanks! ________________________________________________ [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1980"]'05 BSM OBXT Row-your-own, W.I.P. :rolleyes:[/URL] [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1242"]'06 Shrek B # 64 - The car the wife loved to hate :( Sold...[/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 No you are not out of your mind at all. I can build a custom package for you with a Cobb catted Downpipe for now and with what you want sounds like a borla exhaust. PM me if you are intersted in purchasing something And you would be close to 300 CRANK with a stage II TDC map with the DP for sure PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt 45ss Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 how do for fasten down the tubing? is there a walkthrough?how about stage 2 with just the crucial down pipe. i am told that works fine no problems. i've got 5000 miles on the car .these mods aren;t too soon right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 no no not too soon at all. Most guys are modding with 1000 miles haha. You can certainly do a stage II with a tune with just te crucial Shorty. All you really need to get rid of is the 2nd position cat. PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 A couple of things to keep in mind about going to stage 2. If you get the dreaded "fan always running" problem (not caused by stage 2, but apparently common), you'll have to live with it or reflash to stock and get your dealer to replace the ECU. Secondly, depending on where you live and how many catalysts you remove, you might have a problem with emissions the next time state inspection rolls around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt 45ss Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 f:thats why i was hoping to go catless with just the downpipeand run the stock up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 how do for fasten down the tubing? is there a walkthrough?QUOTE] Zip ties or hose clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted June 9, 2006 Author Share Posted June 9, 2006 I was reading on Cobb's website on how to install the downpipe and they give all these torque specs so does this mean I need to by a torque wrench in order to install the downpipe or uppipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 No you don't "need" one. You can't just tighten them but a TQ wrench helps you know exactly how much you are putting on the bolts. PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted June 9, 2006 Author Share Posted June 9, 2006 ...so how much should I tighten them if I am not using a torque wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Joe Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 Pretty tight just not so much you strip the bolt. Do some searches on here and you will find lots of install tips and walkthroughs. PM Me for all your Modification Needs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 Get a 1 foot wrench and pull with 26 lbs of force.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 ^ Hum....Anna's a bit under half that weight. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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