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help with 2.5i


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After searching around, and figuring everything out, it seems like that it's going to be so much more of a hastle installing a turbo, and screwing with the warrenty for the turbo to actually be worth anything. I was wondering what other suggestions you guys had that I could do to my car. I am looking for the most preformance I can get, without screwing up the warrenty and also beable to impress some people, as well as myself. Suspension wise, what are some suggestions?

 

:iam:

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Quickly... take it back to the dealership and tell them, "You forgot the turbo!!":lol:

Seriously, I don't know, if you already searched and read up on improvement mods for NA leggies, then I am really not sure. Did you look to see what other NA folks have done?

Stage2.5376, TDC ProTune,blah blah blahhhh and....Alky/H20 injection :icon_mrgr
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feel you bro. i have this 2.5i as loner car since last friday, my friends didn't even want to touch it because it's so heavy, that 170hp seems powerless. best option it's to trade in for a GT, the current $2000 rebate offering it's bargin. express yourself to your dealer say you really dispointed at 2.5i, you feel screwed, now you want a GT limited at price they got the car for. 27000(invoice)-2000(rebate)-1000(holdback)=24000 something like that.
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After searching around, and figuring everything out, it seems like that it's going to be so much more of a hastle installing a turbo, and screwing with the warrenty for the turbo to actually be worth anything. I was wondering what other suggestions you guys had that I could do to my car. I am looking for the most preformance I can get, without screwing up the warrenty and also beable to impress some people, as well as myself. Suspension wise, what are some suggestions?

 

:iam:

 

 

weight reduction, suspension work, brake work.. all of those things will surely allow you to be on the throttle longer through a turn.. ;)

 

I am currently driving a 1999 2.5RS normal aspirated motor, and let me tell you, the RS is FAST, and possibly even faster than my GT simply because the weight difference already.. the next thing of course is the suspension of the car (and my GT is no POS either with the Zeal coilovers).. simply put, if you find ways to lighten up the car and work on the suspension so that it allows you to stay on the throttle longer and even earlier through a turn, the rewards will show.

 

A good given example is this one turn on the track in the prepped GT and prepped RS with very similar suspension mods (coilovers, camber plates, wheels & tires, sway bars and rear underbrace) and the RS can pull a good 10 mph faster speeds (110 mph vs the GTs 100 mph) through the corner and even get on the throttle sooner because of the weight..

Keefe
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you could do all the typical bolt ons:

 

header

catless midpipe

2.5" full exhaust

engine management for additional fuel and timing

tuning of the engine management system

crank pulley and other pulleys that you can swap out

grounding kit (whatever that is worth)

lightweight battery

air intake

port & polish heads

port & polish intake manifold

engine balancing to get the motor to run another 2000 rpms

lighter aluminum pistons

lighter connecting rods

 

which all that work and parts could end up anywhere near $5000 and up.. which is pointless because the gains you will get wont even be 50 whp (which wouldn't even bring you back up to a stock GT power).

 

 

If you were really serious about performance, you know you would have bought the GT without a doubt in your mind. I would just hurry up and trade it back in or whatever and get a GT and be happy of the stock power.

 

As I mentioned before, suspension is really a big key of where you can find a way to put more power to the ground in a useful manner. The other option is not even spending that much more money on the car, but rather go out and take some high performance driving classes and stuff, that way, it doesnt matter what car you sit in, you will be able to drive the car FAST. The knowledge you learn in a class like that will unlock a LOT of potentials in almost every car. The real limit of the car is really the driver.

 

The 2.5i isnt slow, it's just heavy.. take some weight out, redo the major parts of the suspension with some wheels/tires, coilovers, and sway bars and you got yourself one fast car.

Keefe
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you could do all the typical bolt ons:

 

header

catless midpipe

2.5" full exhaust

engine management for additional fuel and timing

tuning of the engine management system

crank pulley and other pulleys that you can swap out

grounding kit (whatever that is worth)

lightweight battery

air intake

port & polish heads

port & polish intake manifold

engine balancing to get the motor to run another 2000 rpms

lighter aluminum pistons

lighter connecting rods

 

which all that work and parts could end up anywhere near $5000 and up.. which is pointless because the gains you will get wont even be 50 whp (which wouldn't even bring you back up to a stock GT power).

 

 

If you were really serious about performance, you know you would have bought the GT without a doubt in your mind. I would just hurry up and trade it back in or whatever and get a GT and be happy of the stock power.

 

As I mentioned before, suspension is really a big key of where you can find a way to put more power to the ground in a useful manner. The other option is not even spending that much more money on the car, but rather go out and take some high performance driving classes and stuff, that way, it doesnt matter what car you sit in, you will be able to drive the car FAST. The knowledge you learn in a class like that will unlock a LOT of potentials in almost every car. The real limit of the car is really the driver.

 

The 2.5i isnt slow, it's just heavy.. take some weight out, redo the major parts of the suspension with some wheels/tires, coilovers, and sway bars and you got yourself one fast car.

 

Driven properly a 25I is a better car than a turbo and by far the more reliable. Small tweeks are great but again drive proactively and you re the winner.

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Driven properly a 25I is a better car than a turbo and by far the more reliable. Small tweeks are great but again drive proactively and you re the winner.

 

 

+1, but the power difference coming out of the factory, all the power helps..

 

From the standpoint now with a 2.5i, suspension and weight reduction will definitely make the car shine.. For both the GT and 2.5i, the limit is already at the tires and some of the suspension to make it faster.. but really, the weight needs to drop a good 200 to 300 lbs somewhere to make it really FAST.

Keefe
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how so performance wise?

 

 

?? Not understanding your question but here goes:

 

The normal aspirated motor is faster in response time, no need to deal with minor turbo lags and the what-not. The 2.5i is slightly lighter on paper, but with the power to weight ratio, it's a world of a difference.

 

You can certainly use GT suspension parts and brakes to upgrade the 2.5i, but the fact remains that the 2.5i reacts faster to the driver's input.

 

When driven properly, the 2.5i is a very fast car, it just needs a weight reduction to see what it is capable of (see my reference with me driving the 2.5RS which is actually faster than my GT).

 

Under straight line conditions, the turbo will definitely make use and it will show the difference, but when it comes to engine response going in and coming out of the corners, normal aspirated motors will shine (see corvettes and GT3 Porsches making the move out of a corner). A properly tuned motor even in normal aspirated form is a real performer.

Keefe
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Ahh I get it. Basically the GT will do better on launches, just because of the turbo, but if I race at a track, and get the suspension mods and everything, i'll be faster around turns and everything?

 

 

The GT just has more power through the mid range and top end.. (you'll see the difference in isolating the pure performance of the motors in a 1/4 mile drag).. take the turbo out of the car, it's nothing special, in fact, it's probably slower than the 2.5i because of the compression ratio difference.

 

The 2.5i can be fast (yes, it COULD be fast) if it goes on a diet and did some suspension work (and maybe tack on a front 1-way LSD) to really make all that power transmit to the ground efficiently as possible. You can certainly set up the 2.5i to be faster around the turns than a stock GT. It's a matter of taking out some weight, redo the suspension, and a few minor bolt ons to get the car moving nicely..

 

But to really make use of all that suspension stuff, you really have to know how to make the car go fast through a turn.

 

Driver improvement is always a good mod to do.

Keefe
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I am very happy that I have a free car

 

 

and also a father that cares.

 

 

matter of fact why don't you make it a father/son project car.

 

at the wicked big meet i meet a father and two sons that have their lgt up to stage 2

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You going to autocross it? $1,300 at Skip Barber is going to have you going faster than the comparable amount in modifications. And you can readily convince your dad it will make you a safer driver.

 

It's a nice-looking, practical car that has good roadholding but not the acceleration of more powerful cars - or the fuel consumption. Maybe buy some lighter rims (the BBS RK's from the SAABARU are 18 lbs and $500 a set) then you'll have the stock rims for dedicated snows. The Legacy GT rear sway bar is obtained inexpensively.

Who Dares Wins

スバル

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I think I may have directed you to come over here on NAISOC? Dig through the Naturally Aspirated section of this site there is some info on there.

 

This is all kind of a repeat but I am bored and longwinded...

 

Tires/Wheels would be the first and best upgrade...

 

Air Intake and Catback might be worth looking into as well. Our intake is quite restrictive but no company makes a bolt on...there is a few custom made ones floating around and one guys looks pretty good.

 

But as mentioned before suspension toys would definately help its performance. I haven't done much research on what will work and what won't other than the mentioned rear sway bar above.

 

I am on the fence currently if I am going to dig into modding this car beyond cosmetic and stereo or if a GT will be in my future when the 08's roll around next year.

 

As far as the way ours take a corner ask Suds how mine takes a corner:icon_bigg It can be quite a fun car to drive:icon_wink even with RE92's

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?? Not understanding your question but here goes:

 

The normal aspirated motor is faster in response time, no need to deal with minor turbo lags and the what-not. The 2.5i is slightly lighter on paper, but with the power to weight ratio, it's a world of a difference.

 

You can certainly use GT suspension parts and brakes to upgrade the 2.5i, but the fact remains that the 2.5i reacts faster to the driver's input.

 

When driven properly, the 2.5i is a very fast car, it just needs a weight reduction to see what it is capable of (see my reference with me driving the 2.5RS which is actually faster than my GT).

 

Under straight line conditions, the turbo will definitely make use and it will show the difference, but when it comes to engine response going in and coming out of the corners, normal aspirated motors will shine (see corvettes and GT3 Porsches making the move out of a corner). A properly tuned motor even in normal aspirated form is a real performer.

 

Amen cobber

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things I would do in THIS order:

 

1) take high performance driving classes, they range anywhere from $185~$230/day, $300~$400/two-day (weekend school) to $1200~$4000/week. They will improve your driving and thus allowing you to unleash more potential of the car and also keeping you safe (by using your knowledge of what you just learn) of what the limits of the car is and know how to really drive it. Everyone thinks they know how to drive, many MANY DO NOT. Think about this, even race car drivers make mistakes and crash, so no one is an exception to that rule in any car, NO ONE.

 

* the rest below is based on race rules, check your racing sanction to see what is allowed*

 

2) lighten the car by either running the car empty and clean in the trunk (just leave your spare in and the tools to go with it), swap out to a lightweight battery, and if you have money to blow, swap out the seats for lightweight racing seats, start looking into other ways to reduce weight.. this can be anything from removing the AC, power steering, interior trim, and maybe even swapping out some exterior panels for some composites.. again check your race and track rules for what is allowed.. nothing is more annoying than doing something illegal on your car or doing a mod on your car that puts you in a higher class and make competition harder for you to win. Build a winning car, winning the race will be based on your driving, NO ExCUSES

 

3) upgrade some tires and lightweight wheels for "sport use only", and upgrade your daily driven tires if you wish..

 

4) get brake pads, brake fluid

 

5) you can buy ANY suspension from a GT.. opt to go with coilovers, near race-level ones and get upgraded sways and all other suspension that you can get for a GT (as it should work 95% of the time on the 2.5i, something that may not fit would be the front under chassis brace)

 

6) bolt on an intake or intake panel filter and a catback exhaust with headers, you can keep your cat or replace it with a high flow, or just run a straight pipe, that's up to you and your race rules

 

7) Swap out to a Carbon Fiber GT hood (AVO World sells it), add hood pins for safety.. or you can find a stock GT hood to buy, get it.

 

8) If you are serious about your road track days, get a cage.. a GOOD cage (full 6 point to 8 point with knee bar, 2 cross bars and door bars is around $3500). Add 6-point harnesses, buy yourself a HANS device and a good helmet and race suit (2-layer is fine, 3-layer if dont want to wear nomex underwear).Gut out the entire interior down to the metal The cage will stiffen up your car. Find a way to disable the airbags once you go this far.

 

9) Find engine management and get ready to keep a tab on your maintenance costs.. a good working car will always be a safer and more fun car to drive than a car that you dont trust in the parts and condition.

 

10) Enjoy and see you at the finish line.

Keefe
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