wcbjr Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Ok, what about the spot where lots of people have mounted x-overs? It's on the bottom of the front doors by the pocket, the spot with a big chunk of foam behind it. Directly behind that chunk of foam is a removable black plastic panel. If that panel is removed, that gives us, what, about 2 more inches of clearance? All total it's about 4 inches of clearance between the front of the door panel all the way back to the window. Then there's about 1.5 inches between the door panel and the bottom of the seat. An 8" speaker would be a very close fit diameter-wise, but a 6.5-7" driver would be great. Think it would be possible to fiberglass two small enclosures in both doors to fit the small subs? Would these work ok? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-832 Behold my awesome MS Paint skills! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/not_to_scale.gif I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Oooohh...thinking of the logistics of making that FG enclosure makes me shudder. Factor in tht there's nothing hard to form it from, that it'd be very difficult to size correctly (& symmetrically) and extremely difficult to get enough air volume. Then consider the lack of structural integrity in the door panel as a mounting surface = lost output & sound coloration/resonance. Add it all up & you're talking about a LOT of work for limited returns. That's the cynical side of me. The other side thinks it's a great idea in terms of stealth & the slick factor. None of the above problems are without solutions, but it'd be tough. If you're project minded, could be a neat way to go. I love the sound of quality 8" subs set up well in a conservative SQ system - don't cheap out & go shopping at Best Buy! I'm no FG pro, I've only done a couple projects. Someone better could have some interesting ways to do it. I know you can seperate the panel lower section & rework it with plastic epoxy, basically forming speaker enclosures out of them - I have a how-to video on it somewhere. Kind of like working with Bondo for the interior. If it were me I'd probably do something towards the rear of the door where there's more room, or even in the rear doors themselves. It may be worth getting an old set of misc. door panels from a scrapyard & experimenting. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Would these work ok? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-832 From that listing - Specifications: Power Handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.6 ohms *Frequency range: 35-800 Hz *Fs: 35 Hz *SPL: 85 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .51 cu.ft. *Qms: 2.81 *Qes: .32 *Qts: .29 *Xmax 11.5 mm *Dimensions: A: 7", B: 5-1/2", C: 3-5/8" Note it needs a 1/2 foot enclosure. Otherwise the specs look good for such a small driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo_GT Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 First of, if youre going to put in this much effort, I wouldn't buy those PE subs... Get a good quality 8" sub like ID or IDQ, or even the 6.5" subs that focal and JL make would be good choices - and the 6.5"s would be easier to work with too. Like Boulderguy said, the enclosure volume is going to be your biggest problem. Unless you can find a sub that will work in 2 or 3 liters of air volume. I'd just sound deaden the door to the max, and let the sub use the door as the enclosure (like you should do with all door mounted speakers). But if you have other door mounted speakers this won't be ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlander Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Ok, Don't want to flame out so forgive me if I seem to.... Why would you want to except for the 'no one else has done it factor'? Boulder brings up some soldi points on the structural difficulty combined with the acoustical hurdles to be effective. Although it has been overdone by cookie cutters like Q-forms, for SQ the kick panels present better timing/equal path lengths, etc. Wave guides can outperform kicks with a lot of time, $$, and patience. Acoustically a solid foundation can be achieved with 6.5" MB drivers without the hassle of reworking the doors. Cross you subs in the rear low enough (say 80-120Hz depending on taste in music) and they will become 'invisible'. Just MHO. I enjoyed designing for years, but don't miss the headaches that came with it. Vir Est Fatum Ut Perficio Concepta Suus Progenies. - Man is destined to fulfill the capacity of his lineage (i.e. Darwinism) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted April 25, 2006 Author Share Posted April 25, 2006 Yeah, I really just post these kind of threads so someone can tell me it's not plausible and I can get the damn thoughts out of my head. I don't see, however, how there would be lost output from mounting on top of the door panel since the door panel is not actually part of the enclosure. The enclosure just mounts to the door panel. The spacer becomes the top/front of the enclosure and mounts to the lip of the glassed piece. But yes, the volume is going to be the hardest part of the whole setup. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Door panel isn't rigid enough. it'll move conversely to the sub & cancel out certain frequencies based on how quickly it vibrates. Basically some of the energy that should be moving the speaker cone will be moving the door panel instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted April 25, 2006 Author Share Posted April 25, 2006 Eh, true. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 Ok, changed my mind. Going to put to diagonally firing 8" Dayton Quatros (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-545&scqty=2) on the floorboard in front of the front seats. I have never had my feet there, no do I care if the passengers want to put their feet/purse/etc there. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/sub_box.gif *rough length estimates This leaves plenty of room for the speaker front, but I may need a spacer to raise the sub up a bit off the face to get enough rear clearance. The box doesn't need to be that long, judging from Dayton's recommendation (fully stuffed, 0.2 cubic feet). The notch on the corner is because there are raised parts on the floorboard in front of the seats. Speaker grills will be needed, lol. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 You're diggin a grave my friend... How about 8's in seperate kicks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 You're diggin a grave my friend... How about 8's in seperate kicks? Better than a BOV and intake. I have a 5 speed and size 13 shoes. No way 8's are fitting in kicks for any reasonable amount of money. And in reference to the subs in the trunk...I like punchy music and hate rattles. To get any clean output from my subs, it is rattling the bajezus out of the rear deck. I have done everything I can to minimize it, but the rattles will not go away. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 I really think this'll be a tough project with limited results, but more power to you! While it may fly in the face of the problem you're trying to solve, consider mounting a pair of 8's free air in the rear deck. If you sandwich some 3/4 MDF between the sub & the deck & mount the MDF to the deck very well you shouldn't have any rattles. Just an alternate idea. Otherwise, bear in mind the above encosure is based on right angles in the floorboards - they're more like 120 degrees which would force the depth / height to be much greater. Good luck whatever you decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo_GT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Why don't you just make the box out of f.glass? that way you'll make use of all the available space on the floor and have the box sit snugly. And, have you considered puting the sub in the foot well? you'd be able to fit a 10" there and use the sub box as the foot rest for the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93formula Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Elemental Designs EU-700 may be something worth looking into. Its a 6.5 sub that is supposed to work well (I have never used one but I know elemental designs other products are great) http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=15&pid=32&cur=USD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VXCL Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 . I love the sound of quality 8" subs set up well in a conservative SQ system. me too. im thinking of going with 2 8" woofers myself. maybe DVCs so i some hook up options. 2 good 8's can def top average 10s and take up a lot less room!! plus you can run on both the right and left side of the car. i ran 4 8's in my last car. thing pumped and made very tight bass. MAYHEM #122/22 STS NNJR SCCA AUTOX4U.COM XENON RETRO GUIDE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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