GT-LTD.00 Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Has anyone found a good set of front sway bars for the 00-04 legacys? Ive looked all over the place but can only find the end links and bushings. I need some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Im also interested in them too for a friend of mine. The only place i saw them on was japanparts.com. But id rather buy them without having to import them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADirtyLegacy Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 i have a Whiteline front bar (can't remember the size), but I haven't put it on yet. Not sure i'm gonna. Kenda:dm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanders Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Contact: Brett Moncur Renick Subaru 1100 S. Euclid St. Fullerton, CA 92832 714-680-0222 ext 535 888-923-8201 ext 535 714-871-4707 Fax www.RenickMotorsports.com www.RenickPix.com They just got some in. I purchased one but haven't picked it up yet. I think it's $160 for the rear adjustable. Tell him Ned sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lo4dapack Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 I talked to a guy at Rallitek and he said that for our model, the front sway wouldn't do much, and that the best way to tighten up the front would be to add the endlinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanders Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 THe front is much larger than the rear. Most recommend getting the adjustable rear and setting it to the low position to make the car neutral. If you want even less body roll upgrade the front aqnd set the rear to the highest setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Are the hd brackets and endlinks for the rear sway bar recommended over the stock brackets and endlinks? This is for a BE with a whiteline adjustable rear sway.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 IIRC, the front bar on my L is around 19 mm, while the back is a puny 13mm. I got a rear sway bar from IPD 7/8in in diameter ($130 shipped), which is about 22mm. I'll be pairing it up with some poly fsb bushings and Whiteline HD endlinks to balance out the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 IPD... eh? We should compare notes I've got a whiteline rear sway coming in soon. It's an adjustable bar and I'll start out in the low position when I first install. Still contemplating if I should/worth getting the endlinks. Most of my driving with the LGT is daily driving/spirited street driving. I might take it to a track day or auto cross this year but I usally keep my G35 for that stuff.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epik Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 i have front and rear whitelines (22, 24) respectivley with upgraded end links, i ****** love them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 To the original poster. Try out pdm http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/subaru_corner.html The sell front and rear sway bars for the BE. I got the BSR12XZ rear adjustable bar. Epik did the front bar make a huge difference? Earlier in this thread someone metioned that Rallitek said upgrading front bar won't make a huge difference. The best thing would be to add endlinks for the front. I'm going to install the rear bar with stock endlinks and test that out for a week and then decide about the endlinks for both front and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 IPD... eh? We should compare notes I've got a whiteline rear sway coming in soon. It's an adjustable bar and I'll start out in the low position when I first install. Still contemplating if I should/worth getting the endlinks. Most of my driving with the LGT is daily driving/spirited street driving. I might take it to a track day or auto cross this year but I usally keep my G35 for that stuff.... Cool, I just installed mine today (will do a writeup just for the hell of it ), when you install it, see if you have much clearance between the sway and the rear muffler piping. I may have to move my swaybar up a little bit more or get urethane hangers because moving the muffler around I can already get the pipe to hit the swaybar... TBH, the endlinks on the BE/BH's are better than the plastic stuff the older models and WRX's have; all metal and straight, not C shaped like the other, so it's less prone to snapping off due to torsional forces. Also, there's no bushing in the mounts as well - it's a sealed ball joint. Get a 5mm allen wrench (hex), you'll need it to hold the bolt ends down while you loosed the endlink bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
html79 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 i had a whiteline sway bar... with the bushings........ but gave it to the dealer when i returned my car... T.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Thanks for the heads up rougeben83. Looks like I'll be sticking with the stock endlinks for a bit. I'll keeps an eye on clearance between the bar and muffler. Porbably have my bar and a few other parts installed the third week of June. So stay tuned.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epik Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Camber, yeah it did make a huge diffrence, the rear itself was intense, plus the front wen on about 3 months afterwards, and wow i was more than impressed. I had been told there would be minumal diffrence more with struts (of course), but with stock struts and coils, and the sways it IS worth the money, plus the upgraded end links...but thats just my 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Yeah, I'm going with HD whiteline endlinks in the front. I'm on a tight budget so I couldn't go all out with the suspension even if it's just for swaybars. Poly-bushings and HD endlinks in the front to help keep the front as responsive as the bigger swaybar in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Here's a pic of the underside with the IPD bar installed. I think being able to lift both ends with just one jack shows how stiff the body of the BE/BH chassis is:icon_twis . Only problem is the constant clunking from hitting the muffler pipe on acceleration and hard bumps; I think it only gets worse when I have rear passengers. I'll be getting longer hangers and dropping the pipe a bit when I get my exhaust put in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Here's a pic of the underside with the IPD bar installed. I think being able to lift both ends with just one jack shows how stiff the body of the BE/BH chassis is:icon_twis . Only problem is the constant clunking from hitting the muffler pipe on acceleration and hard bumps; I think it only gets worse when I have rear passengers. I'll be getting longer hangers and dropping the pipe a bit when I get my exhaust put in... Nice! Getting my Whiteline RSB by the end of week or early next week. I imagine I'll be posting some comments and pics within the next week or two:icon_bigg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiroki Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 If anything, if you really want to get rid of that squirmy feel when entering a corner, a front tower bar will help loads. RSB will kill some lift and roll but a front bar will totaly eliminate that chassis flex and keep your car planted. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/JiroK/track.jpg Just with an STi front tower bar. Pretty flat entering a sweeping right at 120-ish km/h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Well that's good to hear! Putting in my Whiteline RSB this week. I've got a Whiteline tower bar and FSB coming in at the end of this week or begining of next from PDM racing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 If anything, if you really want to get rid of that squirmy feel when entering a corner, a front tower bar will help loads. RSB will kill some lift and roll but a front bar will totaly eliminate that chassis flex and keep your car planted. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/JiroK/track.jpg Just with an STi front tower bar. Pretty flat entering a sweeping right at 120-ish km/h That's a great shot btw:icon_bigg . Strut tower bar is next along with an ALK, poly swaybar bushing and Whiteline HD endlinks for the front bar. Then an alignment... Though the strut bar's effectiveness is currently being argued over in sl-i net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanders Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Hiroki knows what he is talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Have you ever seen a car on one of them 4 ton chassis rigs that test torsional rigidity? You would be suprised how much flex in a modern car chassis there is. Boxing in the tower area is a start. Too bad you can't get lower chassis bracing for the BE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Have you ever seen a car on one of them 4 ton chassis rigs that test torsional rigidity? You would be suprised how much flex in a modern car chassis there is. Boxing in the tower area is a start. Too bad you can't get lower chassis bracing for the BE Not this particular chassis, but yes . Anyway, playing devil's advocate here but in real life a street driven car won't be seeing anywhere near the types of loads that a chassis rig can do; you're more likely to loose grip on your tires before any significant flexing of the chassis will occur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Not this particular chassis, but yes . Anyway, playing devil's advocate here but in real life a street driven car won't be seeing anywhere near the types of loads that a chassis rig can do; you're more likely to loose grip on your tires before any significant flexing of the chassis will occur. I'm not too sure about that..... Those rigs are great for point out weakness in your chassis design and coming up with quantitative numbers to show improvement in design. However, a dynamically loaded vehicle gets subject to forces in directions that cannot be replicated accurately on one of those rigs. Most modern cars can pull around 1g in decelerative force and some can laterally pull 1g. When driving a vehicle you have forces working in three dimensions and this combination can easily cause deflection in chassis/components. The BE is plenty stiff but I still notice a pop or two from the console. I've seen in other types of cars were strut tower bracing or lower chassis bracing is present that some rattles and pops disappear. Although, sometimes the old ones give way to new ones. I don't think bracing on a production car makes a huge difference for everyday driving but when pushed it does help a little. Probably, not the best bang for you buck mod but it does help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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