hifiandmtb Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 This might be a silly question, but could someone explain to m what's actually wrong with the OEM end-links? They are already well-designed, use ball joints & decently put together. The way I see it, use OEM until you have a problem. I'm running a Whiteline adjustable RSB on the max (21mm) setting & have been doing so for over a year. No problems here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 You should take a picture to show the clearance between the endlink/swaybar/lower suspension beam. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 well i have a set (2 actaully-front/rear) of the $100 poltec end links i have had 3 failures now ... 2 in the front and 1 in the rear ... they appear to be the same thing that is 47.00 shippped above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 WOW, really? That's interesting. You are the only person I've ever heard of having problems with the Poltecs. What kind of failures? "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 the bearings can't take that kind of abuse of even jacking up side of the car.. the static load just breaks the bearing joint... a lot of STi owners who use Poltecs have this issue.. my guess is that the spherical bearing angles cant go that far when the sway bar gets loaded from the car just being jacked up from one side.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Ah, this is true. The Hotchkis have their issues too. Mine lost their grease points within the first 100 miles. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 my rear AVO's gave up the ghost after six months.....back to stock since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisngrod Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Looks like you could go to www.mcmaster.com and make some of your own. That's what I did for another vehicle. Have a field day... Find the cheapest combination that will work for you... http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framework.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&DisplayType=Param&FAM=RodEnds If anyone tries please post your results. If positive please post part #s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 24, 2006 Author Share Posted March 24, 2006 We shall see... Im gonna go to Aerosim's meet this weekend. They are supposedly gonna have really nice prices and they have Whiteline adjustables in stock. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 yup failed ball joints very very loud/annoying i suspect that the failure had to do with the progress sway bars fouling (both front and rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 from the looks of it the mc master is about the same price as the ebay ones above .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 so i looked at my rear poltecs this weekend and both the female ends are blown so that is 4 failures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 ^ reason why I am staying away from that and just use the stock ones until I can find something worthy to use.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 so i looked at my rear poltecs this weekend and both the female ends are blown so that is 4 failures What do failed endlinks sound like and look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 clunk at every transition the proublem with poltecs is that the interior of the helm joint is to large (SAE vs metric) so they have put in plastic spacers .. on some the helm it self has failed and has slop other the plastic had eroded they look like the ones above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 lots of clunking, as if your sway bar just "popped" back up from being stuck under loads.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 Well, I just need to find one decent pair only for corner balancing. My Whitelines have no clearance issues with any part of the car. If I stay with the Whitelines I simply plan to install one adjustable link/axle for corner balancing purposes only. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Well, I just need to find one decent pair only for corner balancing. My Whitelines have no clearance issues with any part of the car. If I stay with the Whitelines I simply plan to install one adjustable link/axle for corner balancing purposes only. you disconnect the sways when you corner balance.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 you disconnect the sways when you corner balance.. Uhh, yea, Im well aware of that. But I'm also aware that they need to be reconnected and the idea of the adjustable endlinks is pretty much the same idea as to why you disconnect them while performing the balance... "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSI Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Guys, as a manufacturer, I am a little discouraged about this thread. Everyone wants the BEST PART, the easiest to use, and the most efficient. This is expensive to manufacture these things. You can get a sway bar link made EASILY for 15$ a piece, but how good is it going to be? At the same time a LH tap (to make your LH threads) is not cheap. A Cheap one for aluminum is still 200$. A good one for STEEL is more like 450$. Figure tool costs into the manufacturing of these parts, as well as time to design, test, and prototype, assembly jigs, packing, etc. A good set of endlinks, like COBB, WHITELINE HD, or our own MSI brand is going to set you back at least a minimum of 100$ a pair. The motorsport adjustable option with bearings (not 5$ aurora's) is more like 200$. Sorry, my two cents for what it is worth. -mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Mark - How much is enough to make it 'right'? I've had AVO endlinks fail and they weren't 'cheap'. Others have had Poltec fail. Whiteline HD aren't made for our cars, nor are they adjustable (neither is Cobb). There is no good option out there, whether cheap or expensive. So, why throw money at a problem when there is no bar set for others to be measured by? I'll be more than happy to replace a $15 part every year vs. having to do the same with a $75 namebrand version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSI Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I can definatly relate to your statement Patagonian GT. No sense in replacing expensive parts if they fail or perform just as often. My suggestion. Forget about adjustable links and adjustable bars. Get the size of diameter bar you want that uses the OE position endlinks and use a heavy duty endlink. The Poltec that failed, does anyone now why? Failures do happen, I have them some times, but it is normally a particular set of circumstances that you can not avoid. As long as it is not a design flaw, it is up to the distributor to replace the part and get re-imbursed by the manufacturer. If one of my guys comes to me and says "dude, customers brought me this broken part today, it does not look like it was mis'used, just cracked in the middle" I would just send a new link and leave it at that. If he said "it bent then broke" I would want to see the part as it could be a possible design issue. Anyways, I did not know that there were not endlinks specifically for the LGT? Hmm. -mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 there are, just not the ones I want. <----- has installed Whiteline HD on an STi and sees what could work for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 My suggestion. Forget about adjustable links and adjustable bars. Get the size of diameter bar you want that uses the OE position endlinks and use a heavy duty endlink. Frankly, this will work with people that simply have spring setups, but for people looking to setup their coilovers properly, that just won't do. Also, althout I understand what you mean about a proper set, even the $100+ brands get it wrong. My Hotchkis were not the best. The bolts were to small, the grease fittings went MIA after 100 miles. Poltecs are in the 100+ range, they go bad. Apparently the $75 AVO units go bad. See, what Im saying here, even units that are marketed as being above the rest... still go bad. I have to say, I saw a set of Whiteline units and they look mighty good and tempting. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Whiteline doesn't show a listing for the LGT for their HD version, but I see no reason why two sets of fronts wouldn't work all around for the LGT as long as the length matches what you need. Frankly, at $250+ for two sets, I'm not willing to be the guinea pig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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