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As you all know I had the almost 6 month fiasco with the catalytic converter on my GT. Got that buttoned up about a week ago, and then on Thursday the P0018 code popped up. I cleared it with the AP and googled it: Crank Position - Intake Cam 2 (LH) Position Correlation.

There doesn't seem to be a concrete culprit, but here is what I have found so far:

Dirty oil

Crankshaft sensor

Camshaft sensor

Oil control valve

With that being said, it has been 6 months since the oil was changed (2,000 miles) and it has set with the front up on jackstands for 1 1/2 months. I know it's a longshot, but would changing the oil have any chance on fixing this? I really don't want to start playing the "change every sensor one at a time game" again. Also, AVCS on the AP agree across both sides. 

 

Any suggestions? 

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If it turns out to be the OCV, I would do an engine flush using BG EPR (BG109). If you haven't used it before, it's really amazing stuff, and I'm extremely skeptical when it comes to "miracles in a bottle/can". The only other such product in my vehicle repair arsenal is Red Line 60103 for the fuel system side of things.

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Posted (edited)

Changed out the OCV today. Decided while it was "exposed" that I would swap in new plugs since it was due for it's 120k maintenance. Took it on a test drive and so far so good, no code. 
 

During the test drive a friend brought over his 2015 C7 and asked if I wanted to drive it. 😁 

IMG_9980.jpeg

Edited by Falcor
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Eh, that's why I suggested swapping sides before throwing parts at it. Just to make sure though, it was the drivers side that you replaced, correct?

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5 hours ago, Plastixx said:

Eh, that's why I suggested swapping sides before throwing parts at it. Just to make sure though, it was the drivers side that you replaced, correct?

Yes, replaced the driver’s side.

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Could be a blockage in one of the banjo fittings for the OCV, a blocked AVCS screen, faulty AVCS gear, etc. I think it's unlikely to be the cam sensor. Not difficult to check the waveform with a scope though.

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So, looks like the banjo fitting with the filter/screen is behind the rear section of the timing cover. To remove it you have to remove the cam gears. I really hope the flush cleans things out. 

I'm doing the oil flush recommendation from the shop manual (drain and refill with new filter, run for 5 min, then drain and refill again with new filter). If this doesn't fix it, then I'm going to take it in since it's more than I'm willing to do myself.

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Man, I really suggest using BG EPR with that flush.

When I bought my Legacy, I did a BG EPR flush using fresh oil (drain old oil, flush with EPR and cheap oil+filter, then change again using quality oil+filter). The oil that came out with the flush looked like it had been in there for 10,000 miles, even though it was only a few hours. The instructions say to run it for 10 minutes at 1,200 RPM, but I drive around with it in for however long I drive that day (granny driving with low RPM).

I do a once a year oil change that ends up being around 7-8k miles. Engine just went over 100k and I only need to add half a quart of oil between changes. Only needing a single 5 quart jug for the year is nice.

Edited by Plastixx
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Yes. BG sells their products exclusively to car dealerships and independent repair shops, so you have to buy through third party online (Amazon, ebay, walmart, etc).

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I don't think I mentioned it, but I did monitor the AVCS with the AP. Both sides are within spec (operating angle 0° and duty output ~10% at idle). I have a friend who has used BG's products (not EPR) and seems to like them. That helps put me at ease. 

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Idle won't tell you much if there's a slight oil restriction. All anything above 0° at idle would tell you is that an OCV or AVCS gear might be stuck (or some other serious mechanical issue). Probably need to log things while driving.

Don't get your hopes up that the EPR will do anything for the problem. It's a relatively inexpensive shot in the dark, and I'm sure the engine could use a cleaning anyway.

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I did the flush last night. Even during the time the car was running with the EPR the idle was much smoother. Time will tell how much good it did. I am hopeful though.

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Car ran smooth today, but the code came back. I'm at a loss now. Since I am not willing to tear apart the timing belt area of the car to further diagnose, now planning to take it in to Subaru. 😐

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