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Exedy hrow out bearing does not match.


nebula72

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Hi.

Trying to get our newly built Type RA engine installed. 

I bought  an exedy 1504 clutch. It seems to fit but the throw out bell ring looks nothing like the oem. The OEM came with some sort of clip and seem to stay on the fork whereas this new one looks totally different. Did I get the wrong clutch package? Any help would be most appreciated as I am in my garage right now at a standstill. Thanks so much

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Edited by nebula72
typo
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  • nebula72 changed the title to Exedy hrow out bearing does not match.

The bearing looks normal to me. The ears wrap around the fork. There should be a clip that holds the fork to the pivot pin on the trans; that's the only clip I've ever seen on my clutch setups. Take a picture of the new bearing on your fork. If it doesn't look right you may need to buy a new fork.

Edited by rhino6303
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While looking through the car I see some stuff (markings and numbers I don't recognize) that looks suspicious.  Maybe a transmission was swapped in?  

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20240428_182648.jpg

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44 minutes ago, nebula72 said:

It slides right over the fork. There's now way to secure it.. it didn't come with any other hardware and I don't really see a way how I could use the original OEM clip

You slide the bearing on the fork then install the fork on the pivot pin.

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A quick search shows that TY755VC7AA is a non turbo transmission so Im hoping replacing the fork will help me but now I feel like I am in a whole new world of crap.  Is is ok to run this TY755VC7AA in the LGT... We only had the car for a few months before the turbo blew the motor and it seemed to ride ok..  Just concerned about the different gear ratios between turbo and non turbo cars.. do the differentials need to be swapped when this happens?  Sorry for my ignorance on this.. I come from an old school carb V8 world so this stuff it pretty overwhelming..

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You are working on a '09 GT w/ 5mt, right?

 

TY755VC7AA shows as an '06-08 Forrester transmission, with a 4.10 final drive.

https://rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf

 

The original transmission for an '09 LGT has a 3.90 final drive, so you need to source a matching rear differential or it'll destroy itself due to the mismatch.

https://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2009.html

 

The GT 5sp is reinforced compared to the NA 5sp, but I'm not sure how much it is; it's just more likely to break than a GT 5sp, just not sure at what point it would.

 

Related to the clutch, my search for exedy 1504 clutch is showing that it's for a Toyota Yaris.

Did you mean 15804?  That would be for this transmission (or should be).

It looks like they are expecting a little bit wider fork there, still trying to research why there is a mismatch.

Is that the original fork from that transmission or where did the fork come from?

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Thanks... Will try that tomorrow to see whats up..

Ok well now another question.

The motor is still out...  If I have a mismatch, is it better (easier/cheaper/etc) to get a LGT transmission or a rear diff? 

Thanks again

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Yep.. the fork I have looks exactly like the forester.

Now I need to find out if whoever put this crap in did it right by putting a rear diff in... I suspect not.

Now I need to decide if i should put in a new rear diff or a transmission...  This car is killing me.

Thanks so much for all of your help.. This is a great community.

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Yeah, I think you have proved that you can't assume anything was done right, and need to verify.

I may have a GT clutch fork if you need one, I should also have a 4.11 rear diff if you end up needing one.

It should be cheaper to get a rear diff if needed, but you may want to consider getting an LGT 5mt that you know the history for vs this NA forester 5mt that is a bit unknown and weaker.  Really depends on what you plan to do with the car and for how long.

 

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1 hour ago, nebula72 said:

 I come from an old school carb V8 world so this stuff it pretty overwhelming..

I can relate, my first car work was mid-80's mustangs. 

But I've been working on Subarus for over 20 years now and have gotten used to them, they are actually really nice to work on compared to a lot of others.

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This is my sons first car.. Tried to talk him into a new edge mustang but he really wanted this LGT.

I was ok with it as we spend a lot of time in the mountains in western NC and having the AWD would be great.

The car looked great.. everything seemed to be perfect.. well a year later here we are.

We are making memories together on this rebuild but damn these unknown curveballs are getting exhausting.

I will PM you regarding the diff... Hopefully Ill know more tomorrow when I get home from work.

Thanks so much!!

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If it's been a year, I'll be surprised if the rear diff doesn't match and the transmission survived this long.

I would guess you'll want/need a new pivot ball and fork from a GT to match up with your Exedy clutch.

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Posted (edited)

Over last night I was thinking.  Before the engine blew up my son complained that at times it was hard to put the car in 1st gear but at the same time his clutch was a little mushy so we replaced the the slave cylinder. I think that improved it but I do remember it still being a little tough at times to put in first afterwards.

Also I noticed when cruising on the highway, there was some noise that could be interpreted as gear related.  Nothing crazy loud. I just thought that may have been the characteristics of the drivetrain.

We didnt have the car on the road for a year.  It has been a year since the motor blew up.  We bought it around a year and a half ago and had the car driving for about 6 months before the motor blew up   I dont know if having the mismatch gears would take a while to fail or if it would blow up the trans quickly.    My mind is wandering all over the place now :).. 

Going to try to get out of work early enough to check the gearing. If I find a mismatch, I would assume that the trans would be the weakest link and therefore should be the first to be changed.   Looking at some used parts websites for prices on a used LGT trans.  Maybe someone on this site has one...  What year LGT trans can I swap in? Will 07 and 08 work if is still have the original 390 rear?

Being the car is apart I just want to get it right.  I am already knee deep in this project with a brand new type ra block/headwork/new turbo gauges etc.

Ill have some more info tonight.   Thanks again.

Tom

Edited by nebula72
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Another option that you might want to consider is the WRX 6MT (or 2010 LGT 6MT) swap.

If you're going to the trouble of changing the trans, why not get the extra highway gear, and it is *almost* a bolt up fit, you just need to adapt for it being cable vs. linkage for the gear selector.

Same final drive ratio etc... and I know in my neck of the woods, they are easier to find now with the number of smashed WRXs vs. 20 year old Legacy GT transmissions.

 

@Infosecdad did one and @Scottydunno has a great write up here on it somewhere.

 

Or go big money and do the STi/Spec B trans swap. hah! 🙄

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I cant afford the STi/Spec B route but the WRX/2010 LGT swap sounds real interesting (if my rear is mismatched to this forester trans).  It seems the 2009 LGT transmissions on not very available. I found one in ohio for around 1100$

Ill try to find that write up.  If you have any information on places to get adapters please let me know.

Thanks!!!

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Yeah, that isn't a realistic option for most of us.

I want to say I was finding WRXs with donor 6MTs for like $1000 CAD around here. Lots of smashed ones now after a few years of them being around.

 

No adaptors needed. Same trans case as our GT 5MTs, so everything lines up. 2010+ LGT trans needs a thing ground/cut off. You'll just have to drill some new holes in the trans tunnel to mount the shifter is all. Have not done it myself, but the how-tos are pretty thorough. My trans is just in such good shape, I want to at least wear it out a little before spending money to change it for something else. Just be sure to get the shifter assy and all that to go with it, if you choose this route.

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From the quick search I did, the 2015 Wrx has a 4.11 final ratio?  If I find that my rear diff is stock I will still have the same problem that I have with this forester trans correct?

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