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2010 legacy - Rear toe / camber


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Hi All, 

Just finished getting the front end all worked out; when I replaced the rear struts - I tightened them with an impact - and must have got them on there good - cause the shop says the alignment adjustment is frozen in the control arm (99% sure it's because I didn't torque them - and just need to loosen them and torque to the right spec.)

They mentioned replacing the lateral links (which don't look like a big deal); and to replace the lower control arms to be able to set the toe.

Couple of questions 

Q1 - Does this car really have rear toe adjustment - I look at the factory lateral links and don't see anything that looks adjustable

Q2 - Is camber adjustment set on the control arm bolts where they go into the rear knuckle (I swear I took them out when I did  and didn't notice it.)

(I'm going to lookup the manual now -but appreciate insights.)

 

--Adrian

subie rear.png

Edited by peril
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the toe adjustment is not where the strut mounts.  it is on the other link and is more often than not seized.  I have done many alignments and been unable to break the adjustment bolt free without risk of damaging it beyond use.

Strut mounting hole circled in red, toe adjustment circled in blue.

Capture.thumb.PNG.8bc5208944b26484f2f35e3878ddc805.PNG

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Had my car on the lift yesterday and remembered this thread, thought I'd take a picture of it for a better visual representation as that diagram could be confusing how it all goes together. Used the same colors as above to show strut mounting, toe adjustment, and added green to show where aftermarket arms would add camber adjustment.

PXL_20230630_202031860.thumb.jpg.307ca88bec86c256da84d68740c7ff6d.jpg

Edited by silverton
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So my plan for this is tommorow : going to disconnect the knuckle and see if I can move the bolt in the bushing (independently) if I can’t, my plan is ( gotta have like 3)

1) hold the bolt and try to hammer on the lateral arm a bit (air hammer) 

2) try to get an impact on the bolt ( this  looks like it might be hard)

3) sawzall, the king of suspension techinques

Any other suggestions? 

Edited by peril
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If you're dead set on replacing the stuff, it can't be tight if it's liquid.

5be41e78c27c8.thumb.jpeg.73847df6654ebf40fd91049a21c08565.jpeg

I have long handle wrenches, or double up two box ends for extra leverage. Be sure to have replacement parts on hand as you could damage them beyond repair, especially if you go the sawzall route.

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 Yeah - the replacements nutz and bolts are the only things stopping me from going at it- I went nutz on the front control arms and was able to get those out with kroil and I just reused the bolts (even tho they were a bit scraggly). 

I'm really looking for any excuse to not do that other rear bearing on the outback. ;)

I will give them a bit of a wiggle tommorow and see.

Edited by peril
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Well darn, (and I’m just kidding on that) after 2 days of kroil and a bit of pb blaster tonight I was able to fully rotate the bolts in the bushing  so once I get my spare bolts tommorow I’ll knock this out!  This could have been / bit more dramatic 
 

fudge. Bearing 

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This all went well, not too much drama, only had to cut off one of the castle nut bolts that got jammed in the knuckle. 
 

Both completed in under an hour, thanks everyone for your help. 

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