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Reset ABS light without ABS code reader?


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Thanks, that's much easier.

 

I see in the next page, "check the under engine ground straps...that should be easy to do.

 

I see on page 3947, shows where its located.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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On 11/20/2023 at 9:12 PM, CBRRICH said:

No luck, I have ordered (2) different OBD/ABS tools both of which could not read (nor clear) my 2005 (Innova 3020RS and 5110). 

To recap, I was successful in reading the codes using the jumper but need to clear them to be sure I am troubleshooting the right code (3 codes are currently  showing).

Anyone used any other scanners they can recommend that successfully read and cleared the ABS codes for a 2005 GT?

I highly recommend the ThinkDiag Bluetooth scanner.  I've used it for a bunch of fairly advanced operations on a variety of makes, including body module work on my Subie.  An incredible amount of functionality for under $100.

https://mythinkcar.com/products/thinkdiag

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Thanks Max for hanging in there with me on this "quest".

Here is what I found about testing Active sensors (which I believe that is what this is):

Active Wheel Speed Sensors
Active wheel speed sensors use two look the same as passive sensors, but they are much more accurate at lower speeds. Active sensors output a digital signal, a DC square wave signal. To test this type of sensor you’ll need a scan tool which can communicate with the ABS module, or a DVOM which can graph a digital voltage signal.

I am somewhat tool limited not having an ABS tool that can read real time sensor, erase codes or a DVOM with graphing (I would suspect that is a modern equivalent of an oscilloscope).

I tried the link you sent me, was there something specific that shows how to replace just the relay in the ABS module?

The first LGT thread has a different code (P0500 vs my C0111).

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On 11/28/2023 at 11:53 AM, relative4 said:

I highly recommend the ThinkDiag Bluetooth scanner.  I've used it for a bunch of fairly advanced operations on a variety of makes, including body module work on my Subie.  An incredible amount of functionality for under $100.

https://mythinkcar.com/products/thinkdiag

Thanks for the tip, it looks really impressive and the initial cost is good but there is a $80/year subscription fee. If I was a professional, I'm sure that would pay for itself but for the (hopefully) rare occasional use, I think there may be more cost effective units.

I was looking at BlueDriver anyone had experience with that?

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1 minute ago, CBRRICH said:

Thanks for the tip, it looks really impressive and the initial cost is good but there is a $80/year subscription fee. If I was a professional, I'm sure that would pay for itself but for the (hopefully) rare occasional use, I think there may be more cost effective units.

I was looking at BlueDriver anyone had experience with that?

I don't use it, but Blue Driver does seems to come backed with some pretty good recommendation on other than Subaru sources. I suspect this is partly because us 4th Gen folks have in the in dash code reader + lots of BtSSM and COBB AP around here. Most problems can be resolved with those, clearly barring things like BIU and ABS faults.

 

Have you gone through all the pin and wiring continuity checks that do not require and oscilloscope? May not be where the problem is, but it would at least be good to rule all that out before worrying about other problems. Just as an example, I 100% know I have a wiring fault in my passenger side rear speed sensor, which is giving me a SS code. I am getting C codes that indicate other things, but it's all cascading from the continuity fault.

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Today it was working a stuck caliper.

I don't have a garage so weather matters and I live North of Boston but that is the next thing to eliminate what is not the issue using the troubleshooting tree.

I was considering trying to add leads from the cockpit to the rear sensors to use an AC volt read out on a VOM to see if they have an output while moving. Then if one or both is bad, replace those and then go after the C0111 but I don't think they should be related but you never know.

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