Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Dishwasher's Build Thread


Recommended Posts

3 years ago my 06 5mt took a dump. Specifically the car was diagnosed with burnt valves. Vehicle has about 125k miles on it. At that time I parked it and haven't driven it since. At the time I had a 2 year old, was working a bunch, and opted to buy a truck en lieu of trying to work on this damn thing. 

Well work has slowed down, disposable income has increased, and it's time to put this grumpy car back together again.

Some issues to consider:

-The car hasn't been driven in 3+ years so the gas in it is useless and will need to be drained from the system.

-Does this mean fuel system is also shot? I currently have a lph300 in there I think? 

-Burnt valves means heads need to be refinished.

-I might as well do a new short block since it was on borrowed time with 125k miles anyway. Is the type RA block the go to OEM replacement? Or is the regular EJ257 the way to go?

-The stock VF40 is probably also due for a replacement as well. VF52 still a reliable alternative?

-125k mile clutch will be replaced, along with a single mass flywheel.

-Probably need a new inlet. 

-OEM intercooler is separating, and I'm thinking a Grimmspeed replacement would be a better fit

Goal will be to make this 300ish HP. Good canyon car, nothing crazy. If injectors with old fuel need to replaced I'll probably go with some ID1000s, but otherwise I have no intention of messing with the injectors. I'll have the car tuned locally at Ecotech. Currently it's got an up pipe, downpipe, ebcs, 2nd gen accessport.

Am I missing anything else? It's been awhile since I've looked around at the current meta on these cars. 

  • Like 3

 Brought to you by Pfizer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to see you back!

I went with a type RA block and it has been great. Almost 50K now.

VF52 JMPed is a great option too. Still running stock injectors. You could always send yours for a cleaning.

You may want to consider the cylinder 4 cooling mod.

I also have a GS intercooler and am very happy with it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordered a new short block today, along with a new Exedy Stage 1 clutch and SMFW, and engine gasket kit. Found a local shop to redo my heads. Gotta go pick up an engine hoist next. Things are moving along.

 Brought to you by Pfizer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may want to get a new oil pump, oil cooler, thermostat, maybe water pump, timing belt kit (with OEM tensioner -- don't cheap out on that one!).

If your radiator is still the original one, it may be time to replace it as well. They tend to split at the seam between the aluminum and plastic ends.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Edited: Couple other while you're there and this is so old should probably replace it things:

Arp head bolts?

New edits beyond xt2005 reply below:

New hoses galore. Oem pre bended parts are nice, but can probably accomplish all goals with parts store stuff.

Avcs gears and or solenoids? Can probably clean and test the solenoids. The gears like to harbor old oil and metal bits.

Under the intake oem fuel hoses and oiteker clamps. I went cheap regular clamps and hose, and redid the job 2 years later. 

Pcv valve and that one hose near the front with the seemingly pointless foam insulation? 

Edited by seanyb505
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aisin Timing Kit was what I got last time, seemed to work well. Has Gates recovered from their episode of manufacturing defects or stick with the Aisin?

 

I have ARP head bolts in the current block now from a prior head gasket issue. I figure I'll reuse those as my understanding is that ARP head studs are reusable where OEM are not. If there's any damage to them then I'll replace. 

What's the go to radiator for stockish levels these days? That's a good call. 

I'll snag an oil pump shortly as mine is the original. 

  • Thanks 1

 Brought to you by Pfizer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about Gates. I've always used OEM parts for timing.

As for the radiator, I first replaced it with a 'TYC 13091' back in 2019. 70$ shipped! I had the OEM one fail on both cars within a month of each other. Crazy! I still have that TYC radiator on one car and is working just fine. On the other car, I upgraded it to a Koyo.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dishwasher said:

Aisin Timing Kit was what I got last time, seemed to work well. Has Gates recovered from their episode of manufacturing defects or stick with the Aisin?

 

I have ARP head bolts in the current block now from a prior head gasket issue. I figure I'll reuse those as my understanding is that ARP head studs are reusable where OEM are not. If there's any damage to them then I'll replace. 

What's the go to radiator for stockish levels these days? That's a good call. 

I'll snag an oil pump shortly as mine is the original. 

I’m interested in what the verdict of the question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Not sure about Gates. I've always used OEM parts for timing.

As for the radiator, I first replaced it with a 'TYC 13091' back in 2019. 70$ shipped! I had the OEM one fail on both cars within a month of each other. Crazy! I still have that TYC radiator on one car and is working just fine. On the other car, I upgraded it to a Koyo.

I've had the same radiator for years now. Zero issues. 

Edited by seanyb505
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW - I used the Koyorad OE style replacment rad from Rockauto. It seemed like a high quality piece, and was well packaged. Made it to Canada from wherever with no bent fins, etc... About the same price as the TYC as well.

For the timing kit, I can attest that the Aisin was great. Installed mine last summer. All the bearings were exact matches to what came off the car in terms of country of manufacture, and even the colour of the bearing race covers etc.... Genuine Mitsuboshi belt as well. This has been gone over other places, but for the extra $50 CAD, I don't see why you'd risk using the Gates kit. They may have fixed the problem they were having, or mabe they didnt'? Is it worth the risk?

That said, I put a Gates kit in my OBW and it's also been just fine. I'd do it again... but I can get a whole EJ251/3 with accessories for like $600 at the scrapyard and just shove it in, should something catastrophic happen to mine. EJ255? Not so much...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Aisin kit ordered. Crank pulley is on its last leg. Ordered a Dorman OEM replacement from Rock Auto, also picked up a Koyorad Radiator from Rock Auto, new radiator hoses. Also ordered a Grimmspeed TMIC, they're on back order right now, but I'm in no hurry.

Picked up a shop crane at Harbor Freight for $200. It was an open box that the prior owner had assembled improperly by putting the wheels in the wrong location. Got it sorted and it's good as new.  

Pulled alternator, ac compressor, radiator, intercooler. Still need to pull fuel lines, turbo, power steering pump and transmission, and then should be good to go to get the engine out. This is my first time pulling an engine so kinda excited/nervous. Just bagging everything in ziplocs and labeling, and taking photos diligently. The number of vacuum lines on this vehicle never ceases to amaze me. 

  • Like 1

 Brought to you by Pfizer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OE tanks should have drain plug in the bottom. Might be covered in rust proofing or road shmutz.

If not, stick a hose on the pump output connection and power it up with a low amp 12V source. Let it do the work for you….

Edited by KZJonny
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Dishwasher said:

Still need to pull fuel lines, turbo, power steering pump and transmission, and then should be good to go to get the engine out. This is my first time pulling an engine so kinda excited/nervous. Just bagging everything in ziplocs and labeling, and taking photos diligently. The number of vacuum lines on this vehicle never ceases to amaze me. 

Unsolicited advice from someone only slightly more experienced:  get the cheap little plastic tool to release the fuel line connections.  Don't try the screwdriver method you might see on YouTube.  It's possible to chew up the plastic grip inside, and if you mess those hoses up enough, they are not easily found as OEM replacements.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might want to check the pump too and that makes it uber easy to drain the tank.  Dont waste your money on plastic fuel line disconnects, get the aluminum ones. 

 

Good to see you back. 

Edited by m sprank
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, subisubisu said:

Unsolicited advice from someone only slightly more experienced:  get the cheap little plastic tool to release the fuel line connections.  Don't try the screwdriver method you might see on YouTube.  It's possible to chew up the plastic grip inside, and if you mess those hoses up enough, they are not easily found as OEM replacements.

 

20 hours ago, m sprank said:

You might want to check the pump too and that makes it uber easy to drain the tank.  Dont waste your money on plastic fuel line disconnects, get the aluminum ones. 

 

Good to see you back. 

Ordered the aluminum tools from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCK28T8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Also ordered new turbo inlet from Subaru, this will be my third. 

Heard from the shop that the timing chains for my 2017 F150 which have been on back order since the beginning of May might be coming in today. That vehicle is still under Carmax warranty which in my 1 year of ownership has spent a measly $14,000 keeping that 50k mile truck running. (New Flex Plate, New 10r80 transmission, new Seat cooler, new cam phasers, new timing chains, new water pump, new transmission cooler). Ecoboosts are fun. 

 

 

  • Sad 1

 Brought to you by Pfizer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use