Will a Boomba BPV fit our engine? Looks like it will.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Wanted to check here first before ordering.

Will this BPV fit our cars:

https://www.boombaracing.com/sti-recirculating-bypass-valve-bpv/

[Haze]

Pretty sure the STi BPV flange is different from the LGT so no, I don't believe it will fit.

[KZJonny]

Even if it does, why pay the premium? I think my Turbosmart Recirc (as recommended by Cryotune) was in the neighbourhood of half that price? I want to say that GFB is also similarly priced, etc....

It may not be fair at all, but I do recall reading some flame wars over the quality of Boomba units somewhere. Maybe not this forum. And they might be great parts, I have no idea. But when known quality suppliers are less money.....

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

12 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Even if it does, why pay the premium? I think my Turbosmart Recirc (as recommended by Cryotune) was in the neighbourhood of half that price? I want to say that GFB is also similarly priced, etc....

It may not be fair at all, but I do recall reading some flame wars over the quality of Boomba units somewhere. Maybe not this forum. And they might be great parts, I have no idea. But when known quality suppliers are less money.....

Seems like I recall reading some bad stuff about Boomba as well but if I recall correctly, it was mainly just the BOV in general.  So Turbosmart even over a Cobb BPV?  Cool.

[KZJonny]

I don’t have any particular brand loyalty personally. High quality at the best price is always my mantra.

Or, cheap and gets the job done when needed.

The various manufactures of speed parts under my hood don’t seem to be starting a turf war under there, so I’m happy as long as they work well, and my engine runs well.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Do you have a model number for that Turbosmart unit?  I didn't realize they made so many different ones.

[KZJonny]

 

So, that pricing was from a while ago, but memory was *about* right. ~$160 USD or thereabout.

FWIW - For a variety of reasons I really prefer the full recirc valve, but I do have to add that it does make just a little more noise when recircing back to the intake. In a good way tho, you have to be listening for it.

I also think there would be nothing at all wrong with a GFB unit, and I think Grimmspeed makes BPV's now as well? I am kind of find of their stuff for whatever reason. This is just what Cryotune suggested as a good unit, and the price was good. Turbosmart is, to the best of my research, a highly respected brand that sees a little more use in Aus, as that's where they're engineered.

[NORULZleggy]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

 

So, that pricing was from a while ago, but memory was *about* right. ~$160 USD or thereabout.

FWIW - For a variety of reasons I really prefer the full recirc valve, but I do have to add that it does make just a little more noise when recircing back to the intake. In a good way tho, you have to be listening for it.

I also think there would be nothing at all wrong with a GFB unit, and I think Grimmspeed makes BPV's now as well? I am kind of find of their stuff for whatever reason. This is just what Cryotune suggested as a good unit, and the price was good. Turbosmart is, to the best of my research, a highly respected brand that sees a little more use in Aus, as that's where they're engineered.

I would not go with GFB, I had a customer call me and tell me it was trash. I swapped it out for the Turbosmart and he loved it. i run that one also. Great price and quality built.

[KZJonny]

I'm surprised that's the case, since they seem to make high quality bits and their stuff gets used on some big name Youtube car building channels.

Not argueing the evidence, just expected better from a company that seems to be so well loved. Maybe the low end stuff got shopped offshore as the production volumes increased? Dunno.

Either way, the build quality of my Turbosmart, as well as fit and finish were great. The only thing I would consider changing in future would be possibly studding the charge air cooler, so the BPV would just drop on, rather than having to fiddle with bolts, but that's an OCD kind of thing, and I don't think it'll need to come off until I look into getting the Grimmspeed unit to replace my ageing (but bulletproofed) stocker.

[Infosecdad]

I had several different ones including Turbosmart, GFB, and a couple others before I found this: http://synapseengineering.com/synapseusa/compressor-bypass-valves/synchronic-diverter-valve-and-kits/subaru-wrx-2008-2014-synchronic-dv-kit.html

Here are some of the resources I used when I decided to go with the Syncronic DV. 

I agree, they aren't that great at marketing it, but I love the engineering behind it.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1289999

http://www.synapseengineering.com/support/faq/pdf/DV_manual_webres.pdf

https://www.evoxforums.com/threads/push-vs-pull-and-a-b-a-b-port-options-on-synapse-synchronic-dv.64573/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCphpsjXC4U94Co41lylVztQ

[KZJonny]

Read *some* of that over lunch. I guess the takeaway is that it is *fast*?

I looks to me like the design and operation principals are the same for the Synchronic as for other piston-type BPV's, except that this one is highly modular and able to be configured in multiple ways.

I guess the question for me is a use-case scenario, which always has to be considered vs. cost. For a summer driven car with a JPM Custom VF40, is the milliseconds difference in response time going to be worth double the cost? For me, of course not, but I do appreciate the guy engineering this thing. I think if I had gone with a bigger turbo, or anything exotic and requiring an EWG, this would be the cat's ass and a definite contender.

But, strapped on to my bulletproofed stock IC, I think would be a good example of not being able to polish a turd.... 

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Thanks for the Turbosmart info!

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

One more question since I've got a JMP turbo person on here with a stock intercooler.  I have a JMP VF52 and it seems like the connection from the turbo to the intercooler is not correct.  There is an o-ring on there but it seems like there is a shoulder or something on the turbo that is causing the stock intercooler to not seat well.  I've had a boost leak, and I think it's either coming from here, or the fact that a mechanic over tightened the stock BPV, and possibly stripped the threads on the intercooler.

Is there a seal that should be between the turbo and the intercooler (other than the o-ring)?  Or is there some gasket material that could be added to remove the possibility that I'm losing boost there?  I can get used stock intercooler with good threads, or I can tap the threads and get a larger bolt for the BPV.  Curious what your thoughts are about both of these issues.

[KZJonny]

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O
 

This.

Easy to strip threads in aluminium if you’re not careful, so it’s a possibility. If the silicon/ali gasket doesn’t help, then helicoil/timeserts will solve that problem easily enough…

A spray bottle with soapy water will find a leak fast enough. Failing that a simple smoke test might find a leak somewhere harder to see.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Thanks!  That gasket would be on the turbo/intercooler joint right?  And the silicone/ali gasket on the BPV/intercooler joint?  Would this be like a 'make a gasket' type deal?

[KZJonny]

Sorry. To clarify, that Mr. Gasket is silicon and aluminium, that's what I was referring to.

It does go between the turbo outlet and the intercooler, yes. Gives you a little bit squishier material (silicon) for everything to clamp down tight on, but it is infinitely reusable since the body is aluminium. Beats hell out of the OEM rubber ring that deforms over time, causing boost leaks.

Whatever gasket comes with your BPV should be sufficient to seal that up. The one that came in my Turbosmart box was some kind of impregnated fibre/paper gasket. The surfaces are both flat and smooth, and it's holding 16psi so far, no problems at all. I suspect I'd blow out the IC long before having any failures there.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Thanks again!  Just ordered that gasket from the link you posted.

Edited December 6, 2022 by Mr. Electric Wizard

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Replaced the turbo-->intercooler with the Mr. Gasket posted above.  Everything seemed to be good but then the car died.  I'm getting a P0500 Speed Sensor error now.  The weird part is that after I reset the ECU with my AP it runs like crap then almost dies and the P0500 code comes back immediately.  Wouldn't the speed sensor be on the wheel and not trip a CEL if the car isn't going anywhere?  Like it tripped a P0500 just idling.

I realize this thread is going off course.  I can post a new thread if need be.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

One more question about the Mr. Gasket.  Did you leave the o-ring on the intercooler and add the Mr. Gasket?

Or did you remove the o-ring and replace it with the Mr. Gasket?  I removed the o-ring.  Should I add it back on?

[KZJonny]

I took out the OE rubber o-ring that acts as the gasket there. I found the Mr. Gasket silicon lined up right at the mating surface, and didn't want the two infering with each other and causing sealing problems.

The whole thing passed a smoke test before I ever dared turn the key, granted, that's only a couple psi, but I've also got a few thousand kms on it now, and no signs of poor idle, or of boost leaks. Ymmv, but I think that gasket it as good choice either way.

 

I can't imagine the P-0500 would have any relation to idling problems... This might help?:

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diagnosing-a-p0500-dash-err-ss-rare-problem-failed-abs-module.447257/

 

Maybe double check that you didn't nudge any vacuum related hoses (the infamous blue Tee is infamous for a reason....) while you were messing with the Intercooler etc... I'd think it's likely the wheel speed code and the bad idle aren't related, but I imagine there is some way under the sun that it's possible.